Four hours in Seoul - Jongno-gu

Start your tour of central Seoul by delving into the city’s empire-rich past at the largest royal palace, which comprises several offices, residences and royal gardens across 40 hectares of land. The palace was first built by the Joseon dynasty in 1395 but the buildings have been damaged and restored several times, first by fire during the Hideyoshi invasion in 1592 and then again during the Japanese occupation (1910-1945). A project to restore the structures to their former glory has been ongoing since 1990.

Enter through the main Gwanghwamun Gate and proceed through two more gates to reach Geunjeongjeon Hall, an exquisitely decorated throne room with a captivating dragon-adorned ceiling. The hall was used for events such as coronations and receiving foreign envoys. Further highlights in these expansive grounds include two peaceful pavilions to the north and west, and the National Folk Museum of Korea to the east.

Time your visit to coincide with the changing of the guard ceremony, which takes place at 10am and 2pm just beyond the Gwanghwamun Gate. During your visit, you’ll notice plenty of people dressed in hanbok, the traditional Korean dress, which can be rented at various shops in the vicinity – those sporting the attire get free entry. Tickets start from KRW3,000 (£1.80). Closed on Tuesdays.

Just behind the palace is another historical attraction, though this one is associated with more modern politics. This 250,000 sqm compound served as the presidential office and residence until May 2022, when the incoming president Yoon Suk Yeol announced plans to relocate to southern Seoul. The premises opened to the public for the first time in 74 years and pamphlets state “Cheong Wa Dae returns to the people”.

The hilly site is commonly referred to as the Blue House, a nod to the 150,000 handmade tiles on the roof of the main office building, though the public park also includes several other stately buildings, the president’s former residence, pristine gardens, a heliport and pavilions, with Mount Bugaksan forming a picturesque backdrop. If you have time, it’s worth strolling along the historical Bugaksan Mountain Trail, which has also reopened to the public after more than 50 years. There are three routes which vary from 1.5 to two hours.

Entry to Cheong Wa Dae is free but tickets must be booked in advance (closed on Tuesdays).

The downtown district is also home to this temple of Korean Buddhism, originally built in the late 14th century but rebuilt after a fire in 1910 as Gakhwangsa and later Taegosa Temple. As the chief temple of the Jogye Order, it was renamed Jogyesa in 1954 and the complex now houses the Central Buddhist Museum, the administrative headquarters of the Jogyesa Order, along with a beautiful courtyard featuring a 500-year-old, 10-metre-high white pine tree which is protected as a Natural Monument.

The Dharma Hall, built in 1983 from pine wood from the Baekdu Mountain in North Korea, hosts rituals and ceremonies throughout the year, but it’s also worth visiting during Buddha’s Birthday in May to get a glimpse at the colourful lantern-filled grounds. Visitors can also sign up to a temple stay programme to experience the life of Buddha practitioners, taking part in activities such as making lotus paper flowers and chanting practises (from KRW60,000/£36 per person).

After those steep inclines, you’ll be craving some street food to reset your stamina. Look no further than this covered traditional market, which dates back to 1905 and boasts 5,000 stalls comprising everything from lacquerware to clothing and upholstery. Join the market at the east gate for the food section, or follow the delicious mouthwatering scents.

Prepare to weave in and out of locals and join queues for popular delicacies including hotteok (pillowy pancakes, filled with both sweet and savoury options – recommended is the honey and cinnamon version), gimbap (cooked rice rolls wrapped in seaweed) and bindaetteok (mung bean pancakes). While it is predominantly takeaway-only, there are some small areas of counter seating. The food market is open year-round from 9am-11pm.

Still hungry or prefer a sit-down meal? Head to this discreet seafood restaurant at 74 Sambong-ro, but bring along a translation app (or a Korean friend) as it does not have English menus. The small, buzzy venue is filled with locals indulging in the likes of grilled abalone served in iridescent shells, addictive water parsley and shrimp pancakes, and kimchi in beautiful ceramicware. Dishes come sharing-style and will leave you incredibly satisfied.