Four hours in Singapore 2023

Few places in the world count an airport as one of their top tourist attractions. Connected to the arrival hall of Terminal 1 at Changi airport is the futuristic Jewel retail complex which opened in 2019.

After touching down in the city-state, head to the astounding Rain Vortex, which cascades 40 metres down from a steel and glass dome. The world’s tallest indoor waterfall sits at the core of the concentric Shiseido Forest Valley, where more than 900 lush trees and palms, along with approximately 50,000 shrubs, infiltrate each of the seven storeys – with viewing platforms on each level.

The top floor is home to the 14,000 sqm Canopy Park, which offers great vistas and attractions for kids, while the basement levels (B1 and B2) give you the sensation that you’re touching the water, protected behind a glass wall. On the eco side, the water is collected and used for flushing toilets and watering the plants in the airport. In the evening, you can enjoy the nightly light and sound shows.

Nature continues to intersect with architecture at Gardens by the Bay, the 101-hectare national horticultural destination made up of three waterfront gardens in the Marina Bay area. Start off inside at the mystical Cloud Forest, which features a 35-metre-high waterfall, exotic plant species such as Venus Flytraps and epiphytes, and winding walkways that take you to the peak of the waterfall.

The scenery changes during misting hours and feels otherworldly, particularly as the venue is hosting an Avatar-inspired exhibition until the end of June. Once you’ve mastered the plant kingdom, head outside to enjoy the sky-high Supertrees, the tallest of which is about the height of a 16-storey building.

The sustainable structures feature 162,900 plants from more than 200 species, and it’s possible to enjoy them from above on the OCBC Skyway aerial walkway, or from ground-level. Stay for the free Garden Rhapsody light show which takes place at 7.45pm and 8.45pm. Tickets for the Cloud Forest cost S$53 (£32); the aerial walkway costs S$10 (£6).

If you’re in need of a fiery and delicious pitstop, don’t miss this no-frills eatery on East Coast Road in the city’s Katong-Joo Chiat neighbourhood – known for its Peranakan culture. While located at number 216, the restaurant opts for 328 in its title as it sounds similar to ‘prosperous business’ in Cantonese – which is more auspicious.

The creamy coconut laksa broth, featuring king prawns, fish cakes, fresh clams and chopped thick white vermicelli noodles, is the only main on the menu and that’s no bad thing. Founded by Nancy Koh, the Peranakan-based recipe was a result of six months of trial and error, and the wait was certainly worth it.

Inside, the walls are clad with photos of celebrities, including Gordon Ramsay who infamously lost a cook-off challenge to founder Nancy and her son Ryan in 2013. Add chilli paste if you can handle it and slurp until satisfied. Open 9.30am-9.30pm. There are three other branches in Singapore. 328katonglaksa.sg

After exploring the Peranakan neighbourhood, head to the streets of Little India to soak up some more culture. Formerly known for the cattle trade industry, the area is now home to market stalls selling jewellery, sweets and spices, plus places of worship and vibrant street art.

Located on Serangoon Road is the renowned Sri Veeramakaliamann Temple, one of Singapore’s oldest Hindu temples which is dedicated to the goddess and destroyer of evil, Kali (short for Sri Veeramakaliamman). Also on this road is the Tekka Centre, Singapore’s largest indoor “wet” market which features a variety of hawker stalls offering South Asian cuisine – dosa, biryani, chai tea – plus textile shops. Round the corner, at 37 Kerbau Road, is the last surviving Chinese villa in Little India.

The two-storey house is hard to miss, with its vibrant, multicoloured exterior. The villa was built in 1900 by Chinese businessman Tan Teng Niah, and was restored and conserved in the 1980s for commercial use.

Time for a drink. Start off with a Singapore Sling at the legendary Long Bar, located at Raffles Hotel, which reopened in 2018 following a two-and-a-half year restoration. The fruit punch-style drink now has a sustainable slant, crafted with EcoSpirits and served with a biodegradable potato starch straw.

The Long Bar also plants one tree in the rainforests of Kalimantan or Sumatra for every 25 ordered (an excuse to keep drinking!) Watch as bartenders create 18 at a time using the custom-made hand-cranked shaker, or try it yourself if you get the chance. Continue with a drink at Atlas Bar, an Art Deco paradise occupying the ground floor of Parkview Square building.

As with its 1920s-inspired exterior, the gilded interiors drip with decadence and nod to the Jazz Age and speakeasy era. A library-like 26-foot tower acts as a centrepiece, with shelves housing over 1,300 gins. Opt for a vintage gin martini from the decade of your choice (spanning 1910 to 1990s), or leaf through the menu of architecture-inspired cocktails – from Paris’ La Samaritaine building to London’s Battersea Power Station.