The northern Thai city offers avant-garde art and cuisine alongside ancient wats.
1 - Wat Umong
Take a THB200 (£4.80) taxi ride west from Chiang Mai’s centre to this unique forest temple, built in the 13th century by a monk who taught the king meditation. The main chedi is surrounded by six hectares of woodland, but it stands on a broad knoll beneath which are a series of tunnels, supposedly built by the king, with walls painted with jungle scenes and Buddha statues at various dead ends. The murals have mostly faded away, but it’s an atmospheric place. The local cityfolk come often to meditate in the peaceful grounds, feed the catfish and turtles in its lake, and wander the grounds where many old and broken sculptures lie. Curiously there’s also a replica of an ancient Ashoka pillar from India, which depicts Buddhism being brought to northern Thailand by the Lanna dynasty’s King Mengrai. One of Chiang Mai’s least-visited temples, but one of its most rewarding. templesinchiangmai.com
2 - Blackitch Artisan Kitchen
Tucked away in a tiny building in a nondescript alley northwest of the old city you’ll find Blackitch, a remarkable restaurant that purports to “make local ingredients shine by integrating culinary science and local wisdom”. The restaurant has been highlighted in the Michelin Guide for good reason. Thai founder chef Black combines Thai, Japanese and Chinese influences to create a ten-course tasting menu that introduces unusual and exquisite flavours in each small but succulent dish.
Sustainable practices are at the core of his culinary method, combining knowledge gleaned from his grandmother with modern tastes and aesthetics. There’s very little wastage, with many so-called “scraps” fermented and used. The result is a stupendous culinary experience.
The restaurant only caters for up to 14 guests at one time, and the menu – which changes once every two months – is served three times a day (12pm/5pm/7.30pm). Reservations are mandatory – but this could be the best meal you have in Thailand. blackitch.com
3 - Wat Phra Singh
Within the old city walls, this is one of Chiang Mai’s most important wats – if you only visit one temple this is a great option. Wat Phra Singh conforms more to the classical Thai temple aesthetic, and its construction dates back 700 years to the Lanna Thai kingdom. As the story goes, Phra Buddha Sihing, one of the region’s most renowned Buddha images, was being transported from Kamphaeng Phet to Chiang Mai to be presented to the king. However, the chariot broke down, and the Buddha image consequently remained where it was, the wat complex eventually growing around it.
Wat Phra Singh was declared a royal wat in 1941, and boasts a couple of colourfully grand temples, a huge golden chedi flanked by smaller ones, and the original ancient Lanna-style library building. The temples, resplendent inside and out in gold and copper alloy, house giant golden Buddha statues in front of which monks chant and the Thai faithful offer prayers. templesinchiangmai.com
4 - Maiiam Contemporary Art Museum
A 15-minute drive east of the city centre down route 1006 will bring you to the blindingly reflective walls of this new private modern art museum. Maiiam was opened by a couple who wanted to share their private collection – 30 years in the making – of Thai and regional contemporary art with the public. The mirrored exterior hides an interior of huge rooms and halls filled with abstract paintings, mixed media artworks, sculptures and other dynamic artistic expressions. There’s very good English signage, and both temporary and long-term exhibitions are on show. Open 10am-6pm Fri-Mon; entry THB150 (£3.60). maiiam.com
5 - Mai The Sky Bar and the Night Bazaar
At the end of your day, head for Mai The Sky Bar on top of the Melia Chiang Mai hotel, located between the old city walls and the Ping River. The hotel opened in April last year, but the 22nd-floor rooftop bar was only unveiled at the end of September. Offering panoramic views both east across the Ping River, and west across the old city towards the mountain topped by Doi Suthep temple, this is Chiang Mai’s highest rooftop drinks venue. It has two bars connected by a glass bridge, and serves an array of Spanish tapas as well as a vast selection of beverages, including imaginative cocktails.
If you still have the energy after a few drinks, right on the Melia’s doorstep is Chiang Mai’s famed Night Bazaar, where a bewildering array of Thai textiles and crafts are on display in the roadside stalls – ideal for picking up some last-minute souvenirs. Mai The Sky Bar is open daily, 4pm-midnight. melia.com
