Background
The White Room is a fine dining restaurant within the Anantara Grand Hotel Krasnapolsky, located on Amsterdam’s Dam Square (which we reviewed here).
The one Michelin-starred restaurant is overseen by acclaimed chef Jacob Jan Boerma, and led by chef de cuisine Tristan de Boer and maître’d Bram Hommes,
The restaurant first opened in 1885 under the Dutch name De Witte Zaal, and today goes by its English translation. Aside from its starry status, The White Room is also listed as a monument – considered to be the city’s oldest running restaurant in its original condition.
The venue
The restaurant dazzles in whites and golds, with stained glass windows distancing it from the hotel’s ground-floor hallway.
Step inside the dining room and you’re transported back to its founding year of 1885, with grand interiors boasting ornate ceilings illuminated by chandeliers, statement pillars and beautifully painted original wall panels – plus mirrors to replicate the lavish details across the space.
The restaurant has a palatial air – fit for 19th century aristocracy – and is also reminiscent of the Palace of Versailles’ Hall of Mirrors, though on a smaller and more intimate scale.
Tables are well-spaced out and the white place settings are timeless and simple, with just a vase of flowers to brighten the scene. Extravagance is instead reserved for the gilded interiors.
Food and drink
The White Room offers two seven-course tasting menus: the Gold and the fittingly-named Green for vegetarians. The restaurant is also able to accommodate to dietary requirements – as pescatarians, we were served a blend of the two menus.
The menus champion locally sourced produce but also have international intrigue. Several of the dishes feature Asian influences and you’ll experience a great medley of sweet, sour and spice.
While the interiors have an aged, antique feel, the cuisine is far more contemporary and features inventive pairings of ingredients and fascinating techniques. Examples during our meal included 48-hour dehydrated potato (the most lavish crisps I’ve tasted), barbecued lemon and even a Tulip bulb to bring that local feel.
Our evening kicked off with three amuse-bouches, followed by seven wonderful courses and some pristine petit fours. Standout courses included warm homemade spelt and wheat sourdough, cooked for 12 hours and served with caramelised brown butter and Itrana olive oil – so there’s no need to pick between the two accompaniments. I ripped off bits of the roll and indulged in both.
Further highlights included the Japanese-inspired kingfish ‘konbujime’ – a beautifully delicate dish packed with flavour thanks to the smoked dashi, spicy Gochujang and bergamot. The meatier langoustine topped with shavings of pumpkin, served later on, was also a memorable dish.
Wine pairing by the friendly sommelier Frederico Figueiredo was fantastic, starting with Perrier-Jouet Grand Brut Champagne in beautiful floral-engraved glasses, and followed by a subtle white wine and finally a Graham’s Fine White Port.
Service
Service was excellent, with warm and knowledgeable waiters who explained each dish with enthusiasm and were ready to answer any queries on the various techniques and ingredients used.
Verdict
The White Room pairs classically elegant interiors with contemporary cuisine which offers unexpected and delicious results. Highly recommended for special occasions or entertaining clients, with first-class service to match.
Hours
Dinner: Wednesday-Friday from 6pm-12am (latst possible arrival time at 8.15pm)
Lunch: Saturday 12pm-4pm (latest possible arrival time is 1.15pm)
Price
Dinner: Gold menu €149; Green menu €145. Wine pairing €109.
Lunch menus (five/six courses) €69/€79. Wine pairing €52/€65.
Contact
Dam 91012 JS Amsterdam; +31 20 554 94 54; anantara.com
