Background
The Jaleo brand from Spanish chef José Andrés dates back three decades to its first opening in downtown Washington DC in 1993. That brand has gone on to receive Michelin Stars and has expanded with openings in several locations including Las Vegas, Chicago and at Atlantis The Royal which opened earlier this year in Dubai.
The venue
As you enter Atlantis The Royal and take in the impressive Droplets structure that greets you in the lobby, turn right and head past the corridor which is similar to a high-end shopping boulevard. Take the elevator a level down and look for the bright red entrance to Jaleo by José Andrés. The narrow entrance soon gives way to a vast space comprising an indoor and outdoor seating area. The outdoor terrace, with a bar at its centre, allows guests to dine alongside 100-year-old olive trees. Indoors, the space is smartly designed by Capella Garcia and has various seating options ranging from communal style to more intimate spaces with private booths where you don’t look out over onto the neighbouring table. The space is dominated by a live cooking wood-fired station where the chefs prepare the paella in front of the guests – and they readily invite those passing by to help them stir in the ingredients.
Food and drink
The menu is extensive, and unless you are deeply familiar with Spanish cuisine, it might be a lot to take in. The best option then is to go with the Jose Way Chef’s Tasting Menu which will give you the best of the menu through a selection of 13 items. We started with Conos which comprised salmon tartare in cones, topped with trout roe, and the Pan de cristal con tomate which was crispy bread covered with farm-fresh tomatoes and herbs. Next, flavour-packed slivers of cured beef sirloin were presented over potato chips, and it was accompanied by a decadent BB Peter Oysters filled with a pickle sauce. A gazpacho – chilled Spanish soup – as well as lettuce filled with goat cheese and almonds, and roasted sweet onions served with a strong blue cheese and pinenuts were then brought to the table. Chicken fritters were served next along with another extravagant sandwich with porcini, Manchego cheese, truffle and foie gras. Just as we thought we were hitting the limits of what we could eat that evening, it was time for the main course. That main course included two dishes – a paella with toasted pasta and shrimp as well as a plate of perfectly done grilled tenderloin. The Flan de Mama Marisa is a classic Spanish custard, and it was accompanied with a Basque cheesecake with Spanish honey that served as a great ending to round off our meal. The elaborate tasting menu is certainly worth a try and there isn’t a single preparation on it that wasn’t up to the mark.
Service
Every time a paella is delivered to a table at the restaurant, at least two members of the staff accompany the dish, ring a bell and loudly declare in unison – “Paella”. Dining here is a celebration and the way the staff interact with customers and present themselves reflects that joyous spirit of Spanish dining where sitting down to a meal in itself is reason enough to celebrate. The staff were well versed with the ingredients of each dish and were able to identify specific items on our plates without having to go back to the chef.
Verdict
A meal here is a happy intersection of culture, food, place and personality. José Andrés has brought to Atlantis The Royal a world-class dining venue that reflects the decades it takes to create a culinary brand that endures.
Fact Box:
Hours: Daily 6pm–11pm
Location: Atlantis The Royal, Crescent Road, The Palm Jumeirah, Dubai
Contact: +9714 426 2800; atlantis.com
