The pristine rainforest of Ulu Temburong, 45 minutes by water-taxi from Bandar Seri Begawan, hosts a variety of rare flora and fauna. Julian Tan enjoys it from the air and trekking through the jungle to find a waterfall.
If money could buy happiness, Bruneians would certainly count among the most content on earth. With a ruler – His Majesty Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah, one of the world’s wealthiest men – who showers them with bountiful presents such as the Jerudong Park (free-of-charge admission and amusement rides in the early years) and provides tax-free living, they have no cause for complaint. Not only that, they are also blessed generously by Mother Nature.
According to Brunei Tourism, over two-thirds of Brunei’s land area is covered by primary rainforests, including more than 80,000ha of forest reserves and national parks. The kingdom hosts a variety of exotic flora and fauna, like the rare Bornean proboscis monkey and over 400 species of butterflies.
Located in the Batu Apoi Forest Reserve is Ulu Temburong, a sizeable piece of the country’s green heritage, which occupies nearly 50,000ha at its eastern end. Featuring a plethora of well-designed visitor-friendly facilities such as walkways, suspension bridges and viewing decks, the attraction offers ample opportunities to observe life in the wild. Questions or concerns can easily be referred to park rangers, who are often stationed at the foot of the canopy tower or on the steps downhill.
To fully enjoy Ulu Temburong, a morning excursion is recommended, I was told. At 8.20am, our company of 18 passengers headed out on a water-taxi from Bandar Seri Begawan to the small town of Bangar, marking the start of Ulu Temburong district. Bobbing on the placid waters in our moderately sized motor vessel, we enjoyed unobstructed views of silky swamps and lush mangrove forests. Unfortunately, the monkey sightings promised in the package did not materialise.
On arrival, 45 minutes later, we were treated to snacks and hot drinks at a guesthouse by the Temburong River, owned by veteran guide Hussin Ahmad. “The best time to visit is April, May, September and October,” he says. The 64-year-old also runs the Trandie Marina Resorts, which organises teambuilding and incentive programmes and sublets guestrooms and treehouses at nightly rates of B$54 (US$36) for four people and B$12 (US$8) respectively. “Ulu Temburong is at its most beautiful when you’re up on the canopy at sunrise,” Hussin declares. “There is no pollution, except crickets forming an orchestra.”
It was time to set off. Armed with safety jackets, we hopped onto a speedboat, the only mode of transport for navigating the waterways of the rainforest. Once there, we realised we were in for some fine adventure.
“The rainforest looks different whether you are standing on the ground or at the top of a canopy,” park ranger, Suhary, tells me, sharing his three years of work experience which included training in jungle survival and first aid.
“Climb the walkway and you might spot chameleons and pygmy squirrels. You have to look for them.” You couldn't mistake the young man’s passion for God’s creatures whether scaly or furry. “What visitors will take home are fond memories of the park.”
Scaling 1,226 steps to reach the foot of the 40-metre-high viewing towers was definitely worth every muscle ache, and also prepared me for the canopy climb. It took me 20 minutes to get to the top with the luxury of three resting stops in-between. As Suhary promised, the experience was nothing short of spectacular – abundant foliage stretching out like an emerald carpet, hornbills honking to each other from their aerie and the feel of bracing fresh air invigorating one’s lungs.
When it was time to return to ground level, my teammates and I chose to take the jungle trek. Suhary told me that hikers could otherwise opt to descend using the stairway, which would take five minutes longer. A word of caution: a sturdy pair of sneakers is a must. Unluckily, my weather-beaten pair of Nikes couldn’t stand the strain, the soles came off midway!
To end the hike, we splashed in shallow streams through the rainforest in search of “paradise” – a waterfall known among the locals as Sungei Ampang Kechil, which means Little Ampang River. What better way to round up a wilderness adventure than immerse ourselves in natural water that didn’t come in a plastic bottle?
FACT FILE
- Water-taxis depart every 30 minutes from Bandar Seri Begawan between 0700 and 1630. Fare: B$6 (US$4) one-way.
- Guided tours to Ulu Temburong are available at Mas Sugara Travel Services, www.massugara.com. Accommodation at the park can be arranged through Trandie Marina Resorts, tel 673 874 6332 or email [email protected]
