Features

Basel report

1 May 2007 by business traveller

Each spring, the luxury goods market turns its attention to Basel, where the world's premier watch and jewellery makers showcase their designs for the rest of the year. And this year was no exception: 101,700 visitors from over 100 countries to examine the latest creations of the greatest names in watchmaking. Elegant sports watches were a prevailing theme across the show with the luxury brands keeping resolutely on trend, showing sportswear to be proud of and dress watches that stand out from the crowd.

This sporting life

Traditional aviator timepiece brand Breitling has been busy creating its range for luxury car manufacturers Bentley. It continued this with the launch of two key co-branded pieces this year at Basel. The Flying B Number 3 is slightly smaller than Breitling's original Flying B Chronograph but continues its rectangular case theme. It has a redesigned, recessed dial with mother of pearl hour markers and features finely bevelled sapphire crystal.

This year Breitling is also reviving the Superocean model (below centre), which in 1957 marked the brand's entrance into the world of diving. Designed to be robust and functional, the rubberised bracelets set this timekeeper apart from Breitling's usual style. The brand is also bringing the celebrated Ocean Classic and Ocean Racer back to life, and a plated steel version is being launched for those who prefer their watches a little less sporty. Black, blue or bronze faces are available and luminescent hands and hour-markers also feature.

Chopard's new Mille Miglia GT XL Chrono model celebrates the 80th anniversary of the legendary Mille Miglia car race. Powerful, distinctive and contemporary, the GT XL chronograph blends advanced technology and classic design. Oversized Arabic numerals and integrated push-pieces underscore its sporty nature. The steel version is limited to 2007 pieces, the pink gold version to only 500.

The brand also presented three models led by the Two O Ten XL (opposite, top right). The range is aimed at a younger and more cosmopolitan market, but maintaining Chopard's design and quality standards.

Ladies only

This year Breguet has invested effort in infusing all the elements of its famous watch-making house with its jewellery side. Items such as Plumes Emeraudes, Plumes Diamonts and Plumes Princesse (top right) are discreet ladies watches which can be worn as dramatic jewellery.

Like Breguet, Blancpain has also been focusing on its women's collections for Baselworld. In 2006 a dedicated women's mechanical line, Lotus, was created. Three new models for this year feature 220 diamonds set against a backdrop of black or white and a sun motif. Two rows of diamonds are steeped on a traditional bezel, while a satin strap features a folding clasp.

Fendi's latest collection includes Fendi Forever, a modern rose gold plated or stainless steel model with sapphire crystal (below centre). Rose gold tones feature on the dial and numerals. It is also water-resistant to 30 metres. Meanwhile Zucca (right) features a choice of stainless steel bracelet, monogrammed fabric strap or leather with a range of dials including mother of pearl and black enamel. Both choices are available with or without diamonds.

In design

Rolex launched the Yachtmaster II at Baselworld. The Oyster Perpetual watch is the first to have a programmable countdown feature with a mechanical memory. It gives it the advantage of being able to be set to the countdown time for each sailing race. It is available in white or yellow gold.

In addition, almost the entire existing Rolex portfolio has been given a shiny makeover. A series of imaginative dials have been created to enhance the range and give each model a fresh face.

Tag Heuer has been busy with its Link Calibre models and has been perfecting its new S-shaped strap design for the past year. The fine-brushed steel casing and solid steel folding clasps adorn new models from the luxury brand. Among those presented at Basel were Link Calibre 5 Day-Date, S Chronograph and 16 Automatic Chronograph Tachymetre. A range of dials is available in different textures.

Patek Philippe's new men's collection uses complications mixed with timeless designs. The brand has chosen to reinterpret some of its great classic models. In the Ladies' collection, Patek unveiled its first ultra-thin mechanical watch at Basel. The new Calatrava has a specially slender silhouette to flatter the feminine wrist. Two Art Deco-inspired wristwatches, released under the collections "Gemma" and "Serata", will also feature in this year's range.

Swiss watchmaker Rado claims it was the first company to launch ceramic watches in the 1980s and has updated its Ceramica line. One of its latest models features black diamonds on a black background. A more modest version is available with white diamonds. A limited edition metal fly-back chronograph was also launched at Basel. All components are hand-made and scratchproof. A limited edition will also be available later this year.

Jewellery & Accessories

Jewellery trends at this year's show were big and bold, with precious gems and metals in abundance. Leon Hatot's J'aime Boutique collection is to be launched this year. The oversized stones are set in a choice of 18ct yellow, white or rose gold setting with defined curves and a cushion-shaped cut. A choice of stones includes white agate, amethyst (pictured below), orange citrine, onyx, smoked quartz, pink quartz and angel hair rutile quartz.

Breguet's range of cufflinks showed innovation, with models steeped in diamonds and paying close attention to three types of numerals and base texturing. Red and yellow gold models showed a wealth of delicacy.

Century's Mogul Medallion is a double-sided jewel with a precision cut sapphire. Over 250 polished facets are encased in a white gold and diamond set border with a long white gold chain. The white gold medallion is set with 90 diamonds each at 0.9ct.

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