East Meets West
It’s a balmy Istanbul evening and as the sun sets, the city’s socialites and influencers have gathered along the banks of the Bosphorus at the city’s hottest new waterfront gin bar, The 47. It is here that Istanbul’s well-heeled locals and upscale travellers have been spending their evenings, enjoying hand-crafted Monkey 47 gin-cocktails and gourmet bar-bites, in the shadow of a heritage Ottoman palace. This picture is, in my opinion, a perfectly painted one of modern Istanbul, where luxury travellers converge, to sample its myriad offerings, while being surrounded by and immersed in its ancient heritage, architecture and culture. Be that as it may, my soiree at the newly-opened The 47 bar goes on until the wee hours of the morning and, from the look of it, the bar has already established itself as a must-do on everyone’s list.
While Istanbul has always been one of the world’s most visited tourist destinations, today, it has come of age as a luxury destination. Many factors have contributed to Istanbul’s rise as a global luxury hub — entire neighbourhoods have been gentrified into premium spots for retail, restaurants, cafés and bars, global hospitality giants have stunning hotels in this destination with a constantly evolving offer and, most importantly, the emergence of Istanbul as a global MICE destination. Travellers, both business and leisure are now looking at Istanbul for destination weddings, large-scale conferences, off-sites and, of course, curated family vacations. Moreover, its geographic location, between Asia and Europe, makes it a crossroads of culture.
A Palace Rediscovered
I wake up the next morning and soak up the breathtaking views from my room at the legendary Ciragan Palace Kempinski Istanbul. My room features a large balcony, overlooking the swimming pool and the Bosphorus, with the Asian side of the city in the distance. The hotel I am staying at is in Besiktas, a chic, tree-lined neighbourhood, along the Bosphorus. This stretch is lined with stately buildings, dating back to the Ottoman empire, including the enormous Dolmabahce Palace. The Ciragan Palace Kempinski, as its name suggests, is now Istanbul’s most luxurious address, built on the grounds of a former Ottoman palace. The royal palace dates back to 1871. In 1910, a massive fire left it in ruins for decades, after which it was completely reconstructed and transformed into its current avatar. Today, the hotel is under the prestigious Leading Hotels of the World umbrella and has two wings: the heritage wing with 11 splendid Ottoman suites and a modern wing with restaurants, bars, a poolside terrace and, of course, the remainder of its 313 rooms and suites.
Neighbourhood Discovery
I have been to Istanbul before and have thoroughly enjoyed the city. However, this time, I choose to eschew the regular tourist hotspots of the city, to discover its relatively undiscovered parts. Istanbul is full of interesting, quirky neighbourhoods, which are waiting to be discovered. A short drive from my hotel is the tony neighbourhood of Nisantasi, considered to be among the poshest neighbourhoods in town. Nisantasi is a great place to discover local Turkish fashion brands (the Istanbul fashion scene is worth checking out) and international luxury brands. The place is dotted with chic cafés and restaurants where locals hang out. The next day, I drive across the magnificent Bosphorus Bridge towards the Asian side. I start by spending a morning in the buzzing Kadikoy district. This is actually a great area to discover how the locals live and shop with an interesting mix of local shops, cafés, grocery stores, street food options and more. Another area that is currently trending is the hipster-chic quarter of Balat. Highly recommended is the Cafe Naftalin, which serves a variety of coffees from Turkey and the area surrounding it, in a beautiful pet-friendly setting, with cats walking around (and even jumping on tables). Walk through the lanes of Balat to notice how this old neighbourhood has been gentrified, now featuring a host of stylish restaurants, organic cafés and quaint souvenir shops, which are worth checking out.
On my quest for beautiful neighbourhoods, later that evening, a short walk from Ciragan Palace Kempinski, is the stunning neighbourhood of Ortakoy, which comes alive at night. Ortakoy is possibly the most Instagrammable spot in Istanbul, with the beautiful Ortakoy mosque and Bosphorus Bridge as a backdrop. The trendiest address on this stretch is Ruby, a multi-level waterfront bar and restaurant, frequented by the who’s who of Istanbul society. Enjoy cocktails on the waterfront deck, and then go up to the mezzanine for an exquisite spread of Turkish mezze, seafood grills and even sushi.
Bespoke Luxury Experiences
One of the most common activities to do when in Istanbul is to take a Bosphorus cruise. However, luxury travellers are bound to do it differently. As a guest at Ciragan Palace Kempinski, I made use of the hotel’s unique take on the Bosphorus cruise: a luxury yacht, with the hotel’s liveried team on the deck. We set out from the hotel’s private pier and spend two hours sailing past the different quarters of Istanbul, while enjoying champagne and a selection of baklava, Turkish mezze and hot starters. The yacht is good enough to hold a party of a dozen people, and you can even plug in your own music on the boat’s speakers to make an evening of it. This is definitely one of the most unmissable experiences in this exotic city. Later that evening, the hotel staff lead us to the heritage wing (I am staying in the modern wing), where they have lined up what is possibly the city’s most exclusive bespoke dining experiences. One of the heritage rooms of the palace is transformed into a grand private dining room for a multi-course Ottoman dining experience. The chefs have delved into archives and revived dishes that were once enjoyed by the royals, and now present it to travellers. Each course comes with a little note explaining the history behind the dish and its ingredients. This experience, I am told, is particularly popular among high-profile corporate groups, who use this dinner as an innovative off-site experience.
Must-try
A Turkish hammam (bath) experience is absolutely fun. This traditional bath involves a scrub and a hot bubble bath, while you lie on a heated marble platform. Relaxing and invigorating!
Ultimate Splurge: The Sultan Suite
The Sultan Suite at the Ciragan Palace Kempinski is not only one of Europe’s largest but is also among the most expensive in the world at a whopping `23 lakh per night. The 458 sqm two-bedroom suite is situated in the heritage wing of the former Ottoman palace, overlooking the Bosphorus. The suite features a stately living room, a dining area for up to 12 people, grandiose furniture and exquisite objets d’art. The massive bathroom resembles a Turkish bath and features Acqua di Parma products. No wonder, then, that this suite has seen the world’s top royalty, celebrities and heads of state as guests.
A Mice Haven
Given its strategic geographic location and amazing facilities, Istanbul has established itself as one of the world’s most important MICE destinations, consistently hosting high-profile conferences, big-ticket Indian weddings and more. A case in point is the Ciragan Palace Kempinski’s unique MICE offering — the banquet rooms are situated in the heritage wing of the hotel, in the former palace, adding a grandiose touch to the overall event. The palace wing also has a completely restored marble hammam (Turkish bath), which can be booked, on request, for very small cocktails or gatherings, in an extremely exclusive setting. Another interesting venue, is the Palace Terrace, along the Bosphorus, used previously for some high-profile Indian weddings, which can accommodate up to 2,500 people for a cocktail-format event.
