Reggie Ho, Margie T. Logarta, Gigi Onag and Vicki Williams review some of Macau’s most luxurious offerings
“A once sleepy village”, the “Las Vegas of the East”, a “gambler’s paradise” – these are all descriptions often applied to Macau. While all are apt, one characterisation that is seldom offered is “luxury with a capital L”. Yet, as Business Traveller’s editorial team discovered, Macau has a lot to offer those looking for the luxe life.
HOTELS
Altira
FIRST IMPRESSION: This hotel at the end of the old bridge on Taipa features three entrances: the casino, the hotel, and restaurants. As a hotel guest, I never had to tussle with the gambling crowd.
ROOMS: Like the rest of the hotel, my 60 sqm Waterfront View Room was understated but sophisticated with a lot of darkwood furnishings, and many landmarks, such as the Macau Tower, were visible from the full-length window.
LEISURE: A host of restaurants including tempura specialist Tenmasa, and Michelin-star winners Aurora, and Ying. Other assets include 38 Lounge (see review on page 93) and Altira Spa.
EXTRA LUXE: The Zen décor of the spa was calming and after my Chinese herbal body scrub and Restoration massage I felt like a whole new person.
CONTACT: Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa;
tel +853 2886 8888; www.altiramacau.com
PRICE: Room (HK$3,600/US$463), dinner at Aurora (HK$788/US$101) and spa treatment (HK$1,288/US$165). RH
Crown Towers
FIRST IMPRESSION: Arriving at Crown Towers in the hotel’s BMW, I was led by hotel staff into the tastefully decorated high-ceiling lobby for check-in. The giant cylinder lampshades, curvilinear wall patterns, bold art pieces and streamlined furnishing make this an oasis in the otherwise boisterous City of Dreams.
ROOMS: My 60 sqm premier king room provided a real sense of space. Floor-to-ceiling windows show views of Cotai, which sparkles at night like a light show. There are all the trimmings that you’d expect from a luxury property, but what I loved the most was the marble bathroom’s rain-shower and a square, deep-soak bathtub overlooked by a built-in plasma TV.
LEISURE: As part of City of Dreams there is no lack of dining and retail options. In the hotel itself, there is French restaurant Horizons, the lobby lounge and bar Lan (where I had some of the best martinis), exclusive Crystal Lounge and The Spa at Crown.
EXTRA LUXE: The 90-minute traditional Japanese body work massage really worked out the kinks in my neck and shoulders and the spacious couple’s room complete with private Jacuzzi is a real treat.
CONTACT: City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, Macau; tel +853 8868 6688;
http://cityofdreamsmacau.com/hotel/crown-towers
PRICE: HK$4,380 (US$562); 90-minute Japanese massage HK$1,300 (US$167). RH
Four Seasons Macao, Cotai Strip
FIRST IMPRESSION: A mix of Chinese and Portuguese influences, showcasing Macanese culture and giving visitors a sense of place.
ROOMS: The guestrooms feature rich Oriental accents in gold, with lush brocades and velvet that blend seamlessly with the neoclassical design. Expect top-class fixtures such as large marble bathrooms and Stearns & Foster beds made exclusively for the hotel by Sealy.
LEISURE: There are five F&B outlets: the Michelin two-star Zi Yat Heen serves excellent Cantonese cuisine; Balcanção whips up Portuguese and Macanese fare; the poolside Splash and lobby-based Windows Restaurant both have a leisurely ambience; and Bar Azul is the go-to place for after-dinner drinks. The hotel boasts five outdoor swimming pools.
EXTRA LUXE: The 2,000 sqm spa and gym is one of the best in the territory. The three-storey luxury shopping mall, The Shoppes at Four Seasons, carries more than 300 top-tier brands, shops and duty-free stores.
CONTACT: Estrada da Baia de N Senhora da Esperanca, S/N, Taipa; tel +853 2881 8888; www.fourseasons.com/macau
PRICE: From HK$4,100 (US$526) upwards. GO
Grand Hyatt Macau
FIRST IMPRESSION: The lobby’s high ceilings and stunning design gives a sense of luxury upon entering. There is a separate check-in area when staying in a room with Grand Club access.
ROOMS: My Grand Suite King room featured a separate living and dining/work area. The suite has two TVs and a hidden panel in the living room allowing you to plug in whatever electronic gadget you need to, plus free wifi. The bedroom is comfortable; the marble bathroom has a double sink vanity, and combined bath and shower with rain showerhead enclosed by glass. The décor is tasteful and refined.
LEISURE: Food and drink options include Beijing Kitchen, famous for its Peking Duck; mezza9 Macau (see review on page 90), the Lobby Lounge, Patisserie and Poolside. The heated outdoor pool (40 metres) set in spacious grounds among palm trees has an urban oasis feel; the water lounge and private cabanas are nice touches. The Isala Spa (considered one of Macau’s best) has 15 treatment rooms, and steam and sauna facilities in the changing rooms.
EXTRA LUXE: If you stay in either the Chairman or Presidential suites you can enjoy in-room Isala Spa treatments in surroundings that mirror those of the spa.
CONTACT: City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai; tel +853 8868 1235;
http://macau.grand.hyatt.com
PRICE: HK$3,288 (US$422) VW
Mandarin Oriental Macau
FIRST IMPRESSION: The Mandarin Oriental Macau is one of only a handful of properties in the city sans gaming facilities, and with its futuristic cone-like design has added a twist to Macau’s evolving skyline.
ROOMS: Our Waterfront Suite had spectacular views of the Nape waterfront and the graceful Sai Van Bridge. A strategically placed sofa and work desk ensures occupants enjoy the panorama – gorgeous both day and night. The windows are also floor-to-ceiling in the bedroom.
LEISURE: There is a temperature-controlled outdoor swimming pool and whirlpool, fitness centre as well as sauna, steam room and indoor Jacuzzi. The Spa, a feature of MO properties, offers a wide range of treatments, including Macanese therapies. In addition to Vida Rica Restaurant there is also Vida Rica Bar, Lobby Lounge and the Cake Shop.
EXTRA LUXE: Dining at Vida Rica Restaurant is like being ensconced in a royal jewel box – everything is rich, plush and sparkling. The waterfront view, which runs along the room, is again given prominence. A degustation menu highlights chef Dirk Haltenhof’s creativity.
contact: Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape;
tel +853 8805 8888; www.mandarinoriental.com
PRICE: Packages start from HK$2,288 (US$293) which include one night’s accommodation in a suite or a deluxe room and breakfast for two at the Vida Rica restaurant, plus other perks depending on the package. MTL
Mansion at Sofitel
FIRST IMPRESSION: Garry, my butler, has come to escort me to the hotel. He offers me a selection of music to listen to, completes the check-in form, and points out sites of interest on the short drive. Arriving at the hotel VIP entrance we pass through a small but elegant private check-in area for guests staying in one of the 19 rooms in the Mansion. Ten out of 10 for first impressions.
ROOMS: The rooms range from one to three bedrooms and are divided into four design themes. I selected the one-bedroom Avant Garde duplex (203 sqm), which includes: large living area, dining table that seats six, marble counter, bathroom, separate entrance for butler/security and double-height floor-to-ceiling windows. A wood and glass staircase leads to a large bedroom area (with leather-topped desk running the length of one wall) and walk-in wardrobe. The substantial marble and glass bathroom features a freestanding pod-like bath, very large shower with an enormous rain shower option, marble vanity, double sinks and Hermès products.
LEISURE: In my room was a yoga mat, skipping rope and hand weights. Outside there was a swimming pool and Jacuzzi. Guests can also access the pool and fitness centre in the connected Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16 that also includes Mistral restaurant, Rendezvous bar, a pool bar and Club Sofitel.
EXTRA LUXE: The size – more apartment than hotel room.
CONTACT: Rua do Visconde Paco De Arcos; tel +853 8861 0018; www.sofitel.com
PRICE: A Sofitel Luxury Package for a one-bedroom unit starts from HK$3,388 (US$435) and includes: one night’s stay, in-room breakfast or Club Sofitel breakfast, complimentary mini bar, wifi and local calls, fruit plate, HK$200 (US$26) voucher for use in Mistral or Rendezvous, and Club Sofitel benefits. Butler and transfers are extra. VW
Wynn Macau – Encore Tower
FIRST IMPRESSION: The hotel’s spacious limousine brought me to Wynn Macau’s new all-suite product with its own circular check-in area, giant marble flower vases and huge jellyfish tank at the back of the reception desk.
ROOMS: All units look out to Nam Van Lake. I was staying in a 102 sqm deluxe suite decorated in red and cream with touches of gold – very different from the more subdued rooms in the Wynn Tower. The partition between living area and bedroom has two openings – the doorway and another for the big flat-screen TV, which swivels to serve both parts of the suite. Sadly, my room smelled of cigarettes (it was supposed to be a non-smoking room).
LEISURE: The new tower’s opening has added to this complex a new spa and additional food and beverage outlets such as Golden Flower (see review on page 90) and Bar Cristal, jewel box-inspired and most recognisable for its million-dollar antique French chandelier.
EXTRA LUXE: The mosaic floors and embroidered walling in public areas are done by hand.
CONTACT: Rua Cidade de Sintra, Nape;
tel +853 2888 9966;
www.wynnmacau.com
PRICE: Room (HK$2,588/US$332), dinner at Golden Flower (HK$880/US$113) and spa treatment (HK$2,500/US$320). RH
RESTAURANTS
Don Alfonso 1890
FIRST IMPRESSION: Grandeur and space that some might consider over the top, but not when you remember you are inside Stanley Ho’s glittering casino.
FOOD AND WINE: Chef Alfonso’s passion for home-grown ingredients (he makes his own olive oil) and “let the produce shine” philosophy is reflected in the menu with most dishes featuring only a few core ingredients. All five dishes I had were faultless in every aspect. My favourite was the cream of tomato soup from Campania with striped red mullet and oregano from Punta Campanella – so sublime it touched all my senses and brought tears to my eyes. Another highlight was the homemade scallop gnocchi on a layer of black squid ink with sea urchin and celery shoots. Leave room for the table of handmade chocolates and other goodies. The restaurant’s wine list is a tome at 500+ pages (more than 8,000 labels, with over 100 new wines added each month), or select from the iPad wine menu created in-house by urbane sommelier Roberto, who easily recommends excellent pairings.
SERVICE: Professional, friendly and knowledgeable, the service is first class. All servers wear small flag badges indicating the different languages they speak.
LUXE FaCTOR: It all screams luxury.
CONTACT: Grand Lisboa, Avenida de Lisboa; tel +853 2828 3838; www.grandlisboahotel.com
PRICE: Cost for five dishes and two glasses of wine HK$1,580 (US$203), soup (HK$150/US$19), gnocchi (HK$230/US$30), set menu HK$280-$480 (US$36-62). VW
Golden Flower
FIRST IMPRESSION: As you enter you are greeted by the tea lounge; its décor is inspired by the Peacock Room of 19th century tycoon Frederick Leyland, an interior design masterpiece credited to James Abbott McNeill Whistler. “Exquisite” was the word that came to mind as I was guided through the dining room most notable for its Chinese lantern ceiling lamps with Venetian-style, wrought-iron frames.
FOOD AND WINE: The food is Tan cuisine, a style of cooking originating from the family of Qing dynasty official Tan Zongjun. The dishes incorporate exotic ingredients and flavours from all over China; one highlight of my meal was braised sea cucumber with Shang Dong leek – the sweet-savoury brown sauce not only added flavour to the marine delicacy but also complemented its texture.
SERVICE: As expected of a five-star hotel; there is even a tea sommelier on hand.
LUXE FACTOR: There is an in-house calligrapher who presents a hand-written menu to every VIP.
CONTACT: Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de Sintra, Nape; tel +853 2888 9966;
www.wynnmacau.com
PRICE: My eight-course menu came to HK$880pp (US$113). RH
mezza9 Macau
FIRST IMPRESSION: A large, modern hotel restaurant with a variety of open kitchens, the sense of luxury begins inside one of three private rooms.
FOOD AND WINE: I left myself in the hands of the talented executive chef who created a tailor-made four-course tasting menu for two matched with three wines. For those that like to be in control there is an extensive menu of international fare and a comprehensive wine list. From the appetiser platter (I especially loved the seared foie gras served with fabulous homemade apricot jam with its hints of star anise) to the fork-tender Grade Six Wagyu T-bone, it was all top notch.
LUXE FACTOR: Privacy, alfresco area.
CONTACT: Level 3 Grand Hyatt (details page 88)
PRICE: HK$2,188/$3,288 (US$280/$422) for two – without wine/with – indication cost only. Minimum required spend for private rooms is HK$5,000-$7,000 (US$641-$899) depending on room (can accommodate up to 12 persons). VW
SPAS
Banyan Tree Spa
FIRST IMPRESSION: I didn’t feel any sense of relaxation in the reception area, but just beyond it is another world.
TREATMENT: From a selection of 90-minute options (all treatment times include 30 minutes of calm time) I selected the Balinese, described as a “medium to strong deep tissue massage” that is designed to “stimulate blood circulation, improve energy flow and relieve tension”. Shoes removed and replaced by slippers, I was escorted by my therapist to the Xianmao treatment room for two. The room itself was tastefully decorated and there was a sense of calm. I had my feet washed before climbing onto the massage bed, where I was massaged with oils and expertise – her medium was my idea of firm – for a glorious hour.
FACILITIES: In-room steam room and shower, rain-mist steam bath. LUXE FACTOR: The head and face massage at treatment’s end was the best I have experienced.
CONTACT: Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai; tel +853 8883 6633;
www.banyantree.com/en/macau
PRICE: HK$1,100 (US$141). VW
Six Senses Spa at MGM Grand
FIRST IMPRESSION: I loved the carved wood doors that lead to this spa on the third floor: they give you the sense of the beginning of a journey. The reception area is not overly impressive, but the best comes when you enter the two-storey facility.
TREATMENT: My 80-minute Sensory Journey treatment was performed by two masseuses and the long strokes really did the trick in loosening my muscles. But the best part was being given a foot rub simultaneously while getting a cleansing facial.
FACILITIES: You can spend hours in the changing room using all the facilities, which include a sauna and herbal-infused steam room, snow cabin, Jacuzzi, footbath, and ceramic recliners with headphones for music (and a sea view).
LUXE FACTOR: The flotation pool with highly saline water is a truly relaxing experience.
CONTACT: 3/F, MGM Grand Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape; tel +853 8802 3838; www.sixsenses.com/Six-Senses-Spas/mgm/index.php
PRICE: HK$2,100 (US$269). RH
NIGHTLIFE
Club Cubic
FIRST IMPRESSION: The space – 2,787 sqm of it over two stories and a sizeable stage equipped with the same LED technology as the Beijing Olympics.
WHAT’S IT LIKE? One bar is dedicated to Perrier-Jouet – the only one in Asia – and speciality cocktails. Five private karaoke rooms sport various themes, from cigar room style to mostly pink. The largest VIP 8 room comes with a psychedelic pool table. A state-of-the-art sound stage regularly hosts international performers. The club opened in April.
LUXE FACTOR: The club serves up fantastic “bar snacks”, including prawn cocktails, Parma ham and dessert items such as chocolate mousse and fresh strawberries.
CONTACT: Level 2, The Boulevard, City of Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai;
tel +853 2828 6696; www.cubic-cod.com
PRICE: There are entry fees for certain events – DJ P-Jay from LA charged HK$200 (US$26) last month. RH
Lion’s Bar (MGM Grand)
FIRST IMPRESSION: After renovation work, this long-time nightlife favourite feels much roomier and more pleasant. It also no longer requires passing through the casino to enter. You can either sit by the bar on the elevated podium, make use of one of the huge leather-bound booths, or pick the quieter corner with antique-style velvet seats.
WHAT’S IT LIKE? There is a good list of Portuguese wines, and the martinis were generous in portion.
LUXE FACTOR: I went on a Tuesday night and UpFront Band was playing international hits as well as R&B. The vocal performances were sometimes stunning and the music was consistently good.
CONTACT: MGM Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau; tel +853 8802 8888;
www.mgmmacau.com/lionsbar
PRICE: A bottle of Portuguese wine starts from HK$300 (US$39) and cocktails start from HK$75 (US$10). RH
Playboy Club Sands Macao
FIRST IMPRESSION: The famous bunny logo and photograph of a young Hugh Hefner, surrounded by a swathe of Playboy Bunnies, greet guests at the entrance of the 1,113 sqm facility.
WHAT’S IT LIKE: The only Playboy Club in Asia (for now) features flamboyant interiors of silver and red and cosy seating areas looking out to the glittering Macau waterfront. Signature drinks include Play Boy Woo, a combination of vodka, peach schnapps, amaretto and cranberry juice. There are also Bunny Cookies – chocolate-chip cookies shaped in the Playboy logo. There is live DJ music nightly.
LUXE FACTOR: Being served by Playboy Bunnies
CONTACT: Sands Macao, Hotel Largo de Monte Carlo, No. 203; tel +853 2888 3388; www.playboymacao.com
PRICE: Drinks from HK$75 (US$9) and food from HK$55 (US$6). MTL
38 Lounge
FIRST IMPRESSION: It can be hard in casino-mad Macau to find a bar that fits the luxe category, which made happening upon the 38 Lounge all the more exciting.
WHAT’S IT LIKE? Atop the Altira on the 38th floor the lounge affords a great view of Macau from every seat. There is a fabulous terrace but book in advance as it is a popular spot. Extending the “38” theme, the lounge serves 38 wines by the glass, as well as 38 whiskies, cognacs and single malts. There is also a selection of cigars and shisha pipes. A full drinks list and a small plates menu are also available. Live music on Mon-Wed nights.
LUXE FACTOR: The view, the décor, the ambience.
CONTACT: Avenida de Kwong Tung, Taipa;
tel + 853 8803 6868; www.altiramacau.com
PRICE: Wines from HK$60 (US$8) for glass, HK$300 (US$39) for bottle, HK$100 (US$13) for cocktails. VW
TRANSPORT
Cotai Jet – Cotai First
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: It’s a ferry.
THE RIDE: The Cotai Jet is the most direct way to get from Hong Kong to Cotai and Taipa. At one hour little luxury is expected, but what this higher priced ticket does get you is a snack and drink (instant noodles, cheap beer, soft drinks, tea/coffee) and the privilege of disembarking first.
LUXE FACTORS: See first impressions.
DETAILS: Ferries depart from Shun Tak Centre in Hong Kong and from the Cotai Jet ferry pier on Taipa – hotels/casinos run free shuttle buses from the pier and taxis are available. Ferries run from 7am to 1am from Hong Kong and 7am to 3am from Taipa. www.cotaijet.com.mo
PRICE: HK$236-$275 (US$30-$35) one-way, price depending on time. VW
Premier Jetfoil
FIRST IMPRESSION: Premier passenger lounges exist at both the Shun Tak Centre and Macau Maritime Ferry Terminal; these have espresso machines, soft drinks, pastry items, newspapers and internet computers – wifi is also available.
THE RIDE: A TV showed mostly infomercials at low volume. There were many magazines for reading, and a meal was provided: the scallops and enoki with rice on my return ride was considerably more appealing than the pork chop with spaghetti served on the Macau-bound route. Free drinks are offered, ranging from coffee, Chinese teas and soft drinks to spirits and wines.
LUXE FACTORS: Presumably not that many Macau visitors want to pay the extra HK$200 for a one-hour ride, so the cabin was considerably quieter on both journeys.
DETAILS: There is a special Premier Jetfoil ticket counter in both Hong Kong and Macau, and the service runs every 90-120 minutes from 7:30am to 11:59pm.
PRICE: 7:30am-5pm, HK$386/US$49.50 (to Macau) and HK$376/US$48.20 (to Hong Kong); other hours HK$448 (US$57.50) and HK$438 (US$56.20) respectively; VIP cabin for four HK$1,919-$2,544 (US$246-$326) depending on time and destination. RH
SHOWS
Anniversary Revamp
World-famous Cirque de Soleil celebrated the third anniversary of Zaia, its resident show at Venetian Macao, by introducing several new acts. Having seen and loved the show in the first year I was looking forward to seeing if the revamped show was better. One of the new acts, the Roller Skates, had me (and many other members of the audience), on the edge of my seat gasping in wonder. A woman and man on roller skates perform on a small platform that spins at high speed… skating so close to the edge you feel sure one will slip. The final part of this act has to be seen to be believed. Also, impressive was the Lions Dance. One part of the act features three of the four lions balancing on one ball. My verdict: if you’ve never seen Zaia, it is a must-see; if you’ve already seen it… go again.
Did you know:
• Each of the 75 artists has a plaster mould made of their head so that the costume team can work on hats and headpieces.
• It usually takes 1-2 hours for an artist to complete their makeup; artists are taught by experts to apply their own makeup.
• The polar bear uses two performers to manipulate the body.
• Seven musicians play 162 instruments for the show’s soundtrack.
• Every year 70,000 heart-shaped balloons fall on the audience.
Vicki Williams
Water World
Having just celebrated its first anniversary, The House of Dancing Water seems to be still going strong, with a full house on a recent Sunday. A HK$2 billion (US$257 million) production, some compare it to another Franco Dragone production O in Bellagio, Las Vegas, but others opine that the use of water – and tons of it – is really the only connection between the two. Most of the story revolves around a longhaired stranger falling in love with a ballerina princess. In his quest to rescue her from some Gothic-style monsters, the audience sees some amazing high dives, a human chandelier and daredevil motorcycle performance. Although my VIP reserved seat gave me a good view, there wasn’t any pre-show cocktail reception as I would expect from a production of this scale. All show-goers have to choose from is a cinema-style snack and drink kiosk.
Reggie Ho
