Sara Turner discovers ancient islands and the ultimate pizza topping combo in the Italian capital
PIAZZA DEL POPOLO Start your tour at this grandiose square in the centre of the city. For centuries this was the first view of Rome for people arriving from the north, through the main gateway – Porta Flaminia – in the city walls, the remains of which can still be seen today. A wide, pedestrian-friendly piazza, it’s surprising to think this was also the site for executions until the mid-19th century. Have a look at the sand-coloured obelisk, complete with carved hieroglyphs, that dominates the centre of the square. Thought to date from the 13th century BC, at 24 metres tall it is one of the biggest in Rome, and was brought here in 10BC when the Roman Empire was at its peak. Pop your head into the church to the north of the square, Santa Maria del Popolo, where there are two paintings by Caravaggio.
MAXXI – MUSEO NAZIONALE DELLE ARTI DEL XXI SECOLO From ancient city to contemporary metropolis – Rome’s Museum of 21st Century Arts represents a new, forward-looking generation. Take tram number two from Via Flaminia to Piazza Apollodoro, a 15-minute journey. Open since May last year and designed by Zaha Hadid, the sinuous structure is worth a visit on its own merit, even before exploring the collections inside.
The museum’s remit is to promote ultra-modern art and architecture, with temporary exhibitions on display alongside a number of permanent shows from a mix of Italian and international artists, including Gilbert and George and Anish Kapoor. Check out the humorous Mozzarella in Carrozza by Italian artist Gino de Dominicis – an old horse’s trap with a white ball of mozzarella inside, it is a play on the name of the popular snack of fried bread stuffed with cheese (translated as mozzarella in a carriage).Open Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday 11am-7pm, and on Thursday and Saturday 11am-10pm.Entry is €11. 6 Via Guido Reni; tel +39 063 9967 350; fondazionemaxxi.it/en
CASTEL SANT’ ANGELO History is never far away in Rome and the next stop, a 15-minute cab ride westwards on the banks of the Tiber river, takes you back to the second century. This hulking cylindrical structure, built as Emperor Hadrian’s mausoleum, has also housed numerous popes and is now a museum. The riverside entrance takes you through a dimly lit, funereal tunnel, where evidence of parts of the nigh-on 2,000-year-old mosaic flooring remains. Wind your way upwards and you will discover 14th-century frescoes, paintings and carvings adorning the popes’ inner chambers. From the top of the building you can also enjoy some of the best 360-degree panoramas of the city and a glimpse of one of the largest churches in the world, St Peter’s Basilica. Open Tuesday-Sunday 9am-7pm. 50 Lungotevere Castello; tel +39 066 819 111; castelsantangelo.com
IL TEVERE Cross the statue-lined bridge in front of the castle, turn right and enjoy a stroll along the plane tree-lined avenue that hugs the river. Il Tevere, the Tiber, is the river into which Rome’s mythical founders, Romulus and Remus were thrown before being rescued by a she-wolf.It is the third longest in Italy and has its source in the Apennines – by the time it reaches Rome, it is wide enough to carry large boats and, historically, it was a major trade route. Follow the bend until you see the tiny Isola Tiberina in the middle, and take a few minutes to explore the island. It includes sites such as the Basilica di San Bartolomeo all’ Isola, where you will discover artefacts from the lives of numerous Catholic martyrs. When you’re done, cross over to the west bank.
TRASTEVERE The trendy district of Trastevere, where you will have now arrived, is always lively and offers plenty of restaurants if you’re in need of sustenance. A great option is Pizzeria da Ivo (158 Via di San Francesco a Ripa; tel +39 065 817 082). It’s fun to create your own pizza from your favourite ingredients and most eateries of this style will let you – try asparagus and prosciutto crudo with buffalo mozzarella, which should come in at about the €10 mark.Where the best pizza comes from is a point of contention between the Romani and Napolitani. Romans believe their thinner, crispier bases beat any others hands down, although the Natives of Naples favour their doughier version. There are plenty of shops and bars in the area, so spend a while exploring.
MUSEI CAPITOLINI Your final stop is 20 minutes’ walk away so if you are pressed for time, hail a taxi to Piazza del Campidoglio, which sits atop one of Rome’s seven ancient hills. In the centre of the main square (a good vantage point for a photo) is the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius. It’s an impressive sight in itself, but if you go inside the Musei Capitolini you will see the breathtaking original bronze casting from 161-180AD. The detail in the work, from Marcus’s flowing locks to his finely crafted sandals, is exquisite.Elsewhere in the museum you will find a range of antiquities, including a grotesque sculpture of Medusa’s head. Open Tuesday-Sunday 9am-8pm. Entry is €12. Piazza del Campidoglio; tel +39 060 608; en.museicapitolini.org
KEATS’ ROME
Poetry buffs shouldn’t leave Rome without visiting the former home of John Keats, his final residence before succumbing to tuberculosis in 1821. Located on the Spanish Steps, the Keats-Shelley Memorial House has been kept almost exactly the way it was, but a library dedicated to English romanticism has been added. Open Monday-Friday 10am-1pm and 2pm-6pm, Saturday 11am-2pm, 3pm-6pm. Entry is €4.50; visit keats-shelley-house.org/en. Keats is buried in the Protestant cemetery south of the city.
