Ever wondered why Barney Stinson from How I Met Your Mother always “suited up”? In one episode he explains that after a breakup, he came across and acted on a flyer’s advice to “suit up!” Miraculously, the new avatar lifted his otherwise damp feelings, making him feel confident and “new”.
Partha Sinha, head of design at Louis Philippe and Luxure, Aditya Birla Fashion and Retail affirms that to feel classy in a suit, the most important factor is its fit. An ill-fitting suit could just as well make you look shabby, and maybe even lower your confidence.
HOW DOES IT FEEL?
Walk around the store in the suit you’re planning to invest in. If your movement feels restricted, you probably need to alter it to size. When sitting, always undo the buttons. You don’t want the suit riding up, or heaven forbid, have a button pop and roll onto the desk. Having said that, it would be a good idea to try sitting with all buttons looped. If the button holes look precariously strained, size up.
When it comes to suits, the age-old notion that if it falls well over the shoulders it must be your size, doesn’t hold true. Rubbishing the myth, the business head at OSL Luxury Collections, Salesh Grover says, “One of the biggest mistakes that people make when choosing a suit is choosing one with oversized shoulders.” He strongly advises for a made-to-measure suit as opposed to a readymade one. “The fitting of a tailor-made suit is way better simply because you can get it stitched according to your own fit, inch-by-inch.”
And if you’re travelling to another climate, bespoke allows the convenience of choosing a suitable fabric too. Turning up in a woollen suit in a humid city will not only lead to intolerable perspiration, but will also end up making you look untidy. “One should always keep in mind the season, and secondly the occasion where you need to wear a suit. They should influence your choice of colour and fabric,” says Pemba Bhotia, design and product head at Raymond Made to Measure.
While bespoke is the way to go, the downside is accidentally choosing a bad tailor. Just like how one wouldn’t trust an inexperienced dentist, the same applies for a tailor specialising in suits – always go to a recommended or a significantly well-known one.
BUILD IT RIGHT
The suit material should take the shape of your body. Any good tailor will ensure that in addition to the suit hugging your shoulder in proper alignment, its sleeves mustn’t spill over your palms when standing at attention, trousers shouldn’t be baggy – they should end just below the ankles, and the length of the suit should cover the zip of your trousers. Bhotia adds to the checklist: “The length of the tie should always be just below the waist. The knot of the tie can depend on the occasion – double knots are formal and single knots are casual. Classic broad ties are for business formals and slim ties are for an informal evening gathering. While sitting, all buttons should be open.”
He also suggests in investing in the fabric, vouching for high quality wool, which increases the price of a bespoke suit. In his opinion, wool mohair would be the best choice for those who travel frequently because of its anti-wrinkle property. According to Sinha, a timless classic would be “a well fitted single breasted two-button suit in charcoal grey pure wool fabric”.
Grover agrees, adding that the more you spend on a suit, the better is its quality and fit. “For instance, the best wool suits are made of fine super 150’s wool fabric with Italian style. The Italian cut on these suits are superior in make and fit. The combination of fine Italian fabrics and Italian design combined with proper construction gives a suit jacket the ability to achieve a proper fit on the wearer. You really do get what you pay for.”
Saggar Mehra, creative director at Sunil Mehra has a slightly differing opinion. He doesn’t think an expensive tag guarantees a good fit. “It depends on the tailor and his intuitiveness in understanding the body – the more experienced the better.” His suggestion is four seasons fabric in twill weave for a good fit and comfort. In the same breath he says one must avoid polyester fabrics for suits as they reduce its appeal.
IT’S PERSONAL
Though these suit-experts may have slightly differing opinions, they unanimously agree on the single fact that a bespoke suit will always have a better fit than a readymade one. Mehra explains that readymade suits are often made with “industrial construction” or as per a standardised measurement, which isn’t suitable for all body types. Natural fibres and made-to-order suits are the superior choice.
They also agree that styles have evolved over the years. One cannot say for certain that trends, when it comes to suits are universal. Yet, the basics remain in place, with slight variations depending on the social and economic framework of where you are. Grover has broadly summed up what’s currently in vogue: “Lapels are thinner, trousers are narrower and shorter in length, and detailing in suits has become important for a well coordinated and complete outfit. New age consumers are experimenting with colour and fabric compositions too.”
Some two centuries ago, men’s fashion consisted of frock coats with tails, silk stockings over short trousers and knee breeches. All this regalia died down shortly when (what is firmly believed in fashion circles) a socialite and style icon named Beau Brummell, reduced the length of the jackets and stretched the length of trousers down to the ankles.
Things got dark after the turn of the century when heavy fabrics in dark colours were as common as four-button jackets and high-waist baggy trousers. Colour snuck in on fashionable men in suits sometime after the 1920s. Trousers were still high-waist and baggy around the thighs and hips. Shades of white and pastels were common, as were statement accessories such as tie pins and cufflinks.
After World War II ended, and things started returning to normalcy, men once again adopted vanity. Ties, lapels and pants got narrower and colours got deeper. Things got out of hand a few years later when pinstripes, busy patterns and bright colours became part of the raging pop culture as did bell-bottom trousers and dramatically bigger collars. Then came the bold ones who did away with shirts altogether and opted for T-shirts under suit jackets.
The conservative sorts still stuck to shades of navy, grey and black, as they do today. The current age isn’t as much about experimenting, but believes in minimalism. The only acceptable pop colours show in pocket squares, socks and maybe a tad bit in ties.
Sinha draws light on today’s style differences when dressing for a business meeting and a formal dinner: “In most of the cases, a formal dinner suit should flaunt a shawl lapel, preferably worn with a wing-collar shirt and a bow tie. Whereas the suit to be worn to a business meeting should be more classic with a peak or a notch lapel. The fabric base should not have sheen, but a dinner suit can have a subtle sheen through the usage of silk with wool as the base.”
Bhotia points out that apart from the shape and material of the suit, your physique plays an important role too: “Colour of the fabric and style of the suit – shades of brown or bright colours do not go well with a dark complexion, and a style like a double breasted jacket would not complement a short person.”
DRESS IT UP
A pocket square, cufflinks, socks and a tie (or bow tie) are non-negotiable accessories that go with a suit. Grover expands on the list: “A tie clip is as functional as it is fashionable and is the best way to complete your look. Broaches, and brocade contrast waistcoats are also stylish ways to vamp up the suit.”
When it comes to the boardroom, creativity is welcome, but in moderation. While patterned ties aren’t frowned upon in a corporate setting, a psychedelic tie may be better suited for a casual party. Likewise, small and simply designed cufflinks over a chunky pair may be a better fit for meetings. And as for lapel pins, if you must make a statement, keep it simple. Anything too loud such as a diamond-studded rose or a colourful insignia may be distracting to your work associates.
When in doubt, Sinha says, “A vibrant pocket square adds a bit of punch to the classy look. The belt works well as a good breaking point between the upper and the lower part of the suit, and its colour must match with that of the footwear. Wearing a lapel pin and a tie is an option left to the individual.”
If you’re wearing a tie and a pocket square, make sure their patterns aren’t identical; they should be different, yet be in harmony with each other. The base colours must complement each other too. To play it safe, one could opt for a patterned pocket square and a tie in a similar colour, but plain, or vice-versa.
As for shoes, Sinha recommends a pair of classic Oxford brogues in hand painted brown or tan. “However, for a black suit, it should be a black genuine leather oxford. A lean and super slim silhouette with cropped slim trousers calls for classic leather loafers. Patent leather oxfords or slip-ons look good with tuxedos.”
The bottom line remains, to look sharp in a suit, its fit, coordination with accessories, fabric and colours – all matter. And the best way to do this right, is from a tailor who has made hundreds of men look sharp during his tenure.
