Features

Revelry Regalia

16 Dec 2017 by Akanksha Maker
Louis Philippe tuxedo

This month is all about celebration. Akanksha Maker helps decide on looks for an upcoming important occasion

December calls for all things festive. Whether it’s Christmas you’re celebrating or your best-friend’s wedding, it isn’t easy to pick the right garb. From choosing the style to colours, fit and pattern, the outfit you select is crucial to making that ideal first impression you’re looking to pull off. With the plethora of options and brands around, it’s hard to narrow down on what works best for you.

Apart from the classic black tuxedo, the trendy Indian man has expanded his horizons to alternative outfits for revelry. It’s safe to say that Indian designers have overhauled ethnic wear for men. It’s no more just about a plain kurta paired with jeans; the fashion forward man experiments with the variety of Indian fashion available around him. Think of bandhgalas (high-neck Indian suits) or Jodhpur pants (polo pants that have descended from the Rajasthani royal city), the choice is plenty.

Here are some options that will help you put your best foot forward at a significant soirée.

Park Avenue Nehru jacket

Nehru jacket

A hip-length tailored coat with a mandarin collar was the preferred choice of attire for Jawaharlal Nehru, the Prime Minister of India from 1947 to 1964. It was marketed as the Nehru jacket in Europe and America in the mid-1960s. Also referred to as the  “prince coat” or the bandhgala, it has taken Indian fashion by storm since a few years now. It is a regular jacket that has its front buttons closed and a high-collar, giving a very royal look and feel to the wearer. And it’s no surprise why; it was also the outfit of choice of the princes and kings of Rajasthan. The jacket has created quite a stir internationally as well, with the likes of Narendra Modi and Jeff Bezos sporting it on global platforms. (Known as the Modi jacket, a khadi made vest in pastel colours (like chrome yellow and sky blue) is the preferred outfit of the current Prime Minister of India Narendra Modi, to promote and popularise khadi material.) Today, it is adorned by men of all ages and is a sophisticated option for a wedding or even a formal event that calls for Indian wear. While tailoring your bandhgala, it is crucial to get the fit right. The jacket must be cut high on the armhole while fitting like a glove on the chest — like second skin. Ideally, the length of the bandhgala is dictated by your body type. While the arms are resting against the body, the sleeves must end at the thumb. Getting the length wrong can work against the look of this posh piece of clothing. Pick a pocket square in a bold colour or a pattern to add a finishing touch to your outfit. Go for fabrics like silk and velvet to luxe up your ensemble. A number of international designers such as Paul Smith and Corneliani have also presented the bandhgala, exemplifying the global relevance of this royal Indian outfit.

Raghavendra Rathore and Ethnix achkans

Achkan

The word achkan is derived from angarkha or body protector. It originated in India as early as the 2nd century BC as a court dress for nobles. It was worn as everyday wear until the late 20th century by the general public and also by Indian royalty. Traditionally, an achkan has a side opening tied with strings (this style of opening is known as baghal bandi, but frontal opening was common in earlier times as well). The outfit is completed with a sash known as patka and a cummerbund wrapped around the waist, to keep the entire ensemble in place. It can be worn with either a dhoti or pants that crumple towards the bottom (churidar). A three piece achkan can also be worn with a kurta inside, adding to its formal appeal. Having said that, the achkan is an ideal choice of clothing if you’re the groom at the wedding. However, it isn’t uncommon for the best man or the brother of the groom or the bride to adorn this regalia too. Subtle embroidery is advisable, nothing too over the top. Versions of gold — matte and rose — add to the luxe quotient of the achkan. Combining gold with black can further add an element of finery to your look. In this case, the pants should be simple to balance the intensity of the achkan. Another option is the classic head-to-toe white achkan with intricate embroidery — a look that’s hard to go wrong with. You could also keep it simple by opting for a basic black achkan with white dhoti pants to add an edge to your appearance. Brocade is a daring choice of material, however it works well if you’re the one tying the knot. The sash or the patka is usually of a contrasting colour; pick one that complements the colour tone of the achkan. And voila — you’re wedding ready! An outfit that’s commonly mistaken as the achkan is the sherwani — another traditional Indian piece of clothing that’s worn by grooms. However, it can be differentiated by the former by its longer length and heavier flare from the waist to the bottom. The achkan is more trimmed and fitted than the sherwani, giving the wearer a more refined and compact look.

The Arvind Store and Sunil Mehra three-piece suits

Three-piece suit

The preferred choice of formal wear in the western world — the three-piece suit — has been in and out of fashion for some four hundred years. The permutations and combinations of design, cut, and cloth determine the functionality of the outfit. Throw a waistcoat in the mix of matching suit and trousers, and we have the sophisticated three-piece suit. For most, it does seem like a bit much to wear to an ordinary occasion. However, if you’re the man of the hour then it doesn’t hurt to show up a little overdressed. If you wish to keep it simple, pick a waistcoat that matches the suit and the trousers. The experimental kind can pick a contrasting coloured waistcoat, although that’s still daunting territory. While selecting your waistcoat, keep your body-type in mind — taller men can go for a six-button waistcoat while the heavier ones will benefit from a fewer buttons. It’s advisable to tone-down the look of the three-piece suit with subtle colours such as navy blue or grey. Houndstooth, herringbone and plaid patterns can work well too. While wearing this outfit, remember to leave the bottom button of the jacket undone. The top button of the shirt must always be done, while ensuring your cuffs never cover your hands. Standard waistcoat etiquette calls for it to finish at your waist. While the vest (waistcoat) is usually the star of the three-piece outfit, you must not ignore the fitting of your shirt, suit and pants. Skip the belt and pick shoes that complement the outfit; tan, dark brown or any sombre colour works well. Go for the single-breasted jacket that doesn’t hide your waistcoat, which would happen in the case of a double-breasted one. An alternative way to wear a three-piece suit is to break up the pieces; wear just the waistcoat and trousers, and diss the jacket for a more casual look. Opting for contrasting colours — brown vest with black pants or a black vest with jeans could work as well.

Park Avenue and Louis Philippe tuxedos

Tuxedo

The most famous reference to the tuxedo originates from Tuxedo Park, an upstate New York countryside enclave for Manhattan’s affluent ones. A New York socialite was spotted wearing a  “tailless dress coat” in 1886 — an uncommon sight for that time. The tailcoat substitute evolved into the tuxedo or the dinner jacket — a debonair choice of clothing for the man in the spotlight at an event. Nothing says  “this moment is mine and special to me”  like a tuxedo. While picking your tux, it is important to understand how it differentiates from a suit. The tuxedo differs from a regular suit due to the presence of satin. The former traditionally has satin on the lapels, buttons, pocket trim and a satin side stripe down the leg of the trousers. Usually, suits don’t have any satin — their buttons are either faced with the same fabric as the coat or made of plastic. A tuxedo can be worn with a cummerbund or a vest — select depending on the occasion you’re attending, as both are perfectly acceptable. It isn’t uncommon to wear long ties and high stance vests with tuxedos. Black leather shoes complement a classic tux quite well. Remember, you’re already attracting attention with your fancy dinner jacket, so tone down the cufflinks and keep them sober in silver or stainless steel. A single-breasted jacket works better — however if you are tall, a double-breasted jacket’s boxy shape will look good on you. Black is the most obvious choice of colour for a tux; although dark blue, tan or white are interesting shades to dress your DJ (dinner jacket) as well. A peak lapel (pointed collars for the jacket) is advisable to add an edge to your look. If you’re not an expert, don’t rule out using a pre-tied bow-tie for a finishing touch to the dinner jacket.

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