Sandeep Gonsalves, Founder of Mumbai-based, SS Homme
The khaki trench is a timeless classic, loved by gentlemen of all ages. Interestingly, this is one garment that has not witnessed any major changes in its design over the past century, largely because it is so functional. Whether you’re buying your next trench off the rack, or calling on your bespoke tailor for a custom-made one, here are some pointers to keep in mind. So here goes —
The Fabric:
Look for a water-repellent, lightweight gabardine cotton, especially if you live in a humid city. A more stylish option would be a trench in pure cashmere, with some
leather details.
The Structure
While the norm largely recommends a double-breasted trench coat, contemporary designers have experimented with single-breasted styles to suit leaner frames, in keeping with the slim silhouettes of today’s trends. That said, a double-breasted option gives you that extra protection in harsh weather.
Style the Collar
We dig the charm of a trench’s wide lapel and napoleon collar. For that extra bespoke touch, there’s nothing like having your initials engraved on the collar.
Functional Elements
The gun flap comes to the rescue during heavy rain. Constructed specifically to prevent water from seeping in, and is usually situated at the right of the garment. Look for minute details like epaulettes, which were originally crafted for army officers to pin their badges on.
The Belt and the D-rings
A well-designed trench will also have D-rings attached to the belt to carry essential items that can be hooked onto the rings.
Identifying the right length
Shorter gents should stick to coats that sit just above the knee. However, if you’re on the taller side, always go for a trench coat that falls just below the knees to avoid looking awkward and uncomfortable.
Deconstructing the interiors
Opt for sewn-in insulated lining that could keep you warm in colder weather or you could choose to stick to the removable insulated lining that offers versatility in tropical conditions. To customise it further, you could select the detailing of the lining and match it with the detailing of the cuff straps and buttons to achieve a more complete look.
