Four hours in Istanbul 2024

This Ottoman-era structure is best known by its colloquial colour-themed moniker, owing to the tens of thousands of blue Iznik tiles that adorn its interiors. Officially it is called the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, named after ruler Ahmed I who commissioned the monument as a marker of imperial strength – hence the dramatic curved domes and six minarets stretching to the skyline.

The mosque was designed by architect Sedefkar Mehmed Agha and constructed between 1609 and 1617, rivalling the Byzantine-era Hagia Sophia located on the opposite side of Sultanahmet Square. This UNESCO World Heritage Site closed for a five-year restoration, reopening in April 2023 to tourists and locals alike. The building remains a working mosque so take care to wear respectful clothing – women can borrow shawls at the entrance to cover their heads – and remove shoes before entering this majestic monument.

As you enter, prepare to be dazzled by the ornately detailed ceilings and 260 windows which flood the cavernous interiors with natural light. The mosque is closed during the five daily prayer times.

You’ve spent time appreciating Istanbul’s soaring architecture, so now it’s time to descend into its underground realm. This 10,000 sqm cistern was commissioned by Emperor Justinian I in the 6th century, storing 80,000 tons of water to serve the palace and surrounding buildings. It was officially opened to the public in 1987 following a major restoration by the Istanbul Metropolitan Museum, but recently underwent an additional five-year makeover, reopening in 2022. Today it’s a ghostly, symmetrical chamber that showcases vestiges of different eras and civilisations in Istanbul’s history.

The 336 marble columns rising from the water have been salvaged from various ruins, while two columns in the northwest corner have inverted Medusa head statues as bases. These carved statues, thought to date back to Roman times, were discovered in the 1980s and now serve as the cistern’s most popular sight. Modernity has also crept into this mystical underworld, with the space used as an atmospheric backdrop for illuminated art installations, evening concerts and sets for Hollywood films – most notably the 1963 James Bond film From Russia with Love. Open daily 9am-10pm; tickets from £15.80. yerebatan.com

This revitalised waterfront district was unveiled in 2020, opening up 1.2km of the Karaköy coastline. The US$1.7 billion project comprises a state-of-the-art cruise ship terminal, capable of accommodating three ships and 15,000 passengers daily, as well as cultural attractions, shops and dining venues. The premises is also home to a number of restored heritage buildings.

The six-storey Tophane Clock Tower dates back to 1848, while the Karaköy Passenger Terminal building, the country’s first modern port terminal from the 1940s, now acts as the lobby in the newly opened The Peninsula Istanbul. The commercial neighbourhood welcomed nearly 30 million visitors in its first two years, and plans to host 25 million visitors this year alone.

The Galataport district is also home to this contemporary art museum, which showcases more than 280 works by international and Turkish artists from 1945 to present day. Founded in 2004, last summer marked the opening of the new five-storey museum building designed by Renzo Piano Building Workshop, featuring a facade made from 3D-formed aluminium panels that reflect the changing sky and Bosphorus waterway.

Meanwhile, a glass-clad ground floor connects the promenade to the museum’s library, cafe and gift shop. Find out more about the architecture by visiting the Renzo Piano: Genius Loci exhibition. Or pick up some camera skills at the photography exhibits on the first floor before putting them into practice at the spectacular rooftop terrace, complete with an infinity-style pool that visually blends with the Bosphorus beyond. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-6pm (Friday until 8pm); tickets from £13. istanbulmodern.org

Finish your whirlwind trip at this chic waterside restaurant located within the stately grounds of the refurbished Feriye Palace. Reserve a window-side table in the evening to dine on Mediterranean dishes amid scintillating views of the illuminated Ortaköy Mosque and Bosphorus Bridge.

We recommend ordering various colourful dishes to share, including the tasty stuffed courgette flowers with mussels and almond tarator, followed by a family-style whole sea bass accompanied by carrots with ginger, Malkara green lentils, dried sour cherry and fennel. Leave plenty of room for a hugely generous slice of baklava with pistachio for dessert, served with the surprisingly stretchy Maraş ice cream – named after the city of Kahramanmaraş from which it originates. feriye.com