BACKGROUND Porteno set the Sydney dining scene on fire when it opened in late 2010. In September it won The Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide’s Best New Restaurant award. At the heart of the Argentinean restaurant is the Asador and the Parilla. An asador is a medieval-looking rotating barbecue in which the restaurant straps two suckling pigs and two suckling lambs every morning to slowly cook over burning ironbark embers for eight hours. The parilla (wood-fired grill) is where most of the other items are deftly prepared.
THE FOOD A menu that entices from start to finish with typical Argentinean dishes such as empanada and ceviche alongside more adventurous options such as pickled veal tongue, blood sausage and veal sweetbreads (delicious). The highlight of the meal for me (and for most diners) is the slow-cooked, free-range lamb and pig, and we luckily secured the last serving of suckling pig. It was everything suckling pig should be and so succulent that it is best shared. A surprise hit was the crispy fried Brussels sprouts with lentils and mint. Regardless of how you feel about this controversial vegetable it is a must-try dish.
DRINKS An extensive list of wines from Argentina and Spain, with many available by the glass. There is also a range of sherry, sipping tequilas and dessert wines. The upstairs Gardel’s Bar serves superb cocktails and also has a bar snacks menu.
SERVICE The friendly rockabilly staff are efficient and attentive, and their food and wine knowledge ensures ease of ordering if unfamiliar with Argentinean foods and wine.
VERDICT The combination of authentic Argentinean cooking techniques, fantastic Aussie produce, creative flavour pairings and last-meal-worthy suckling pig makes award-winning Porteno a top pick when in Sydney.
FACT FILE
PRICES Appetisers A$8-$22 (approx US$8-$22); mains A$30-$44 (US$30-$44); sides/salads A$12-$14 (US$12-$14); all desserts A$14 (US$14)
LOCATION 358 Cleveland Street, Surry Hills, Sydney. For reservations call +612 8399 1440; www.porteno.com.au
OPENING HOURS Monday – Saturday from 1800. Two seatings: 1800-2030, and 2100 to close.
Vicki Williams
