Tried & Tested

Restaurant check: Les 110 de Taillevent

23 May 2016 by BusinessTraveller
BACKGROUND Once a branch of Coutts Bank, the restaurant sits on Cavendish Square servicing the medical profession of nearby Harley Street. It’s the sister restaurant of the two Michelin starred Parisian version of the same name: the 110 refers to the number of wines available by the glass. The concept is ‘ the ultimate in food and wine matching’, with each dish on the menu paired with a choice of four wines at four different price points, all available in 70ml or 125 ml glass sizes. THE RESTAURANT Designed by Pierre-Yves Rochon, the elegant room was very “French” in design, with rich oak and bottle green velvet accents. The rich, earthy tones reflect the restaurant’s history of viticulture and the large paintings of vineyards emphasise this theme. We were shown to a corner table by impeccably groomed staff who ran us through the concept and menu. Our waiter was knowledgeable, friendly and gave some good recommendations of what to try. We were made to feel comfortable and relaxed despite the restaurant’s air of exclusivity. FOOD AND DRINK The flaky cheese straws were an appetising alternative to the usual bread option. The menu had around 30 dishes divided into starters, meat and fish, side dishes, cheese and desserts – the offering of a classic bistro. Langoustine ravioli with basil and citrus butter (£12), white asparagus with hollandaise sauce (£15) paté en croute (£12) were a few of the classic starters but I tried the cold pea velouté with radish, hazelnut and mint (£7). A vibrant green, the beautifully smooth soup was served with a crunchy island of salad in the middle and a pleasant contrast. From the suggested pairings, a Japanese sake (£9.50 for 70ml) was not something I would have matched with pea soup but the combination was surprisingly good. Each wine comes with a paper collar displaying its details – a great idea if you have a few glasses on the table. From the dozen or so mains, a third were fish including sea bass, hake and turbot, alongside poultry dishes and only one vegetarian option of baby artichokes. The vol au vent ‘a la financière’ (£25) is a signature dish and can be found on the Paris menu. I went for the veal T-bone (£29) which was perfectly-cooked, tender and juicy with a lemon thyme scented jus and a creamy mash (£4). Paired with this was the Oregon Pinot Noir ‘Mount Jefferson’ 2012 (£7.5 70ml): light, fruity and not heavy enough to overpower the delicate veal. We selected a delicious cheese, Le Saint-Nectaire – a semi-soft cheese with a grey rind that had a scent of fresh peas. Paired with Coteaux de Languedoc 2011 (£6.5 for 70ml) I was glad I had chosen the 70ml sized glass option so I could try a different wine with each course. The desserts have many of the French bistro favourites: chocolate mousse, floating islands, fromage blanc, all with a little twist. The chocolate mousse was served hot with a chocolate sorbet, light as air and intensely chocolaty (£9). Matched with a vintage port (£23 for 70ml), it was a delightful end to a delicious meal. Alternatively the wild strawberry panna cotta with basil sorbet (£14) was bright and fresh. The sorbet was perfumed and vibrant, and with a little glass of Italian Moscato d’Asti (£4 for 70ml), a very refreshing way to round off the meal. THE SERVICE The service was exceptional, particularly the recommendations from the sommelier who had an encyclopedic knowledge of wine. The food was beautifully presented and served promptly by smiling waiters. VERDICT London is lucky to have this Parisian gem open its doors. A great location, chic and offering delicious, fresh food accompanied by fabulous wines. A great concept and well executed.
  • OPENING HOURS7.30-10.30am, 11.30-2.30pm, 5.30-10.30pm Monday-Sunday
  • PRICES Starters range from £7-£12, mains from £17 to £75 and cheese board from £9 to £12. Wines are available at four price points: ≤£8;≤£12;≤£19;≥£19.
  • CONTACT Les 110 de Taillevent 16 Cavendish Square; +44 (0)20 3141 6016;
 Annie Harris
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