BACKGROUND Gordon Ramsay opened his latest London venture, Bread Street Kitchen, at the end of last month. It’s located in One New Change, the new Jean Nouvel-designed office and retail complex near St Paul’s Cathedral, next to fellow celebrity chef Jamie Oliver’s Barbecoa restaurant.
WHAT’S IT LIKE? Aimed at more of a mid-market bracket than Ramsay’s fine-dining establishments in the capital, Bread Street Kitchen professes to offer a “relaxed dining experience”, and it’s a down-to-earth place – menus are printed on card and staff are dressed in casual black.
The all-day venue is housed in a huge industrial-style space spread across two levels – on the ground floor and with its own street entrance is a bar, then upstairs is the restaurant and another bar, beside which there is another entrance from inside One New Change. It’s a bustling spot, with dancey music, diners’ chat and an open kitchen creating a lively hubbub. Above the kitchen is one of the restaurant’s standout features, an illuminated wine cellar with some 2,000 bottles – staff walk up steps and along an iron balcony to locate your vintage.
Art deco-style pillars, a black-and-white checkered floor and vintage-looking mirrors and prints create a slightly retro atmosphere. Seating is a mixture of leather banquettes and wooden tables, many packed closely together. Floor-to-ceiling warehouse-style windows look down on to the street below, where on this Friday evening some tipsy-looking City workers were wandering along.
THE FOOD The menu incorporates dishes from the kitchen, a raw bar and a wood-burning oven, with several fish options alongside meats such as mutton, grouse, venison, pig’s head and veal. I began with the roasted lobster with ginger, chilli and garlic (£18), while my companion had the Bread Street mixed cured meats with pickles and chilli (£14.50). Both were tasty – my fish was fresh and well seasoned, if a little buttery – though I would describe neither portion as generous given the price.
For my main, I had the Bread Street short rib burger with Bermondsey Frier cheese and tomato ketchup (£11.50), and hand-cut chips (£3.50). The meat was flavoursome and well cooked, and the chips were excellent – chunky, crunchy and fluffy. I didn’t get much taste from the cheese, though, and the ketchup was rather runny. My companion had the grilled Aberdeen Angus rib-eye with beef marrowbone (£29.50), creamed spinach and nutmeg (£3.95) and chips – he enjoyed it all and the steak was a good size. For dessert I had the almond and polenta cake with crème fraiche (£7.50) – lovely – and my companion had the vanilla and gingerbread cheesecake with autumn berries (£8) – good but small. We were also given a basket of bread, which was refreshed.
To accompany the meal we had a nice bottle of red (Amy’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Moss Wood, Margaret River, Australia, 2009, £38) and a cocktail each – my Bread Street Bellini (Disaronno Amaretto with fresh peaches, topped with prosecco, £10) was unusual and enjoyable, and my companion was impressed with his Bombay Sapphire Martini (£9.50).
THE SERVICE I had been a little worried about this prior to my visit following press reports of disarray in the opening week. But on my experience, they were certainly teething problems – the service was friendly, attentive and very swift. Almost too swift, perhaps, for a leisurely evening meal – we ordered at 7.05pm and by 7.30pm our main was already on the table. On this basis, it would be a good option for a speedy business lunch.
VERDICT A lively atmosphere, welcoming staff and tasty food, if not overly generous portions. A good option for a City lunch, though ask for a more widely spaced table if you’re after confidentiality.
PRICE Starters range from £6.50 to £18, mains from £11.25 to £29.50, wines from £4.50 by the glass and £17.50 by the bottle, plus a 12.5 per cent discretionary service charge.
OPENING HOURS Restaurant: breakfast Mon-Fri 7am-11am, lunch 11.30am-3pm daily, late lunch daily 3pm-5.30pm, dinner 5.30pm-11pm Mon-Sat, until 10pm Sun. Bar: 10am-12am Mon-Fri, Sat 11.30am-12am, Sun 11.30am-10pm.
CONTACT Bread Street Kitchen, One New Change, 10 Bread Street; tel +44 (0)20 7592 1616; breadstreetkitchen.com
Michelle Mannion
