Background
The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts operates 12 properties in India, in locations including Bengaluru, Chennai, Jaipur, New Delhi, Mumbai and Udaipur, with a hotel to follow in Sikkim. The group is a member of the Global Hotel Alliance and Preferred Hotels and Resorts.
The Leela Palace Bengaluru opened in 2001 in the fast-growing city of Bengaluru (formerly Bangalore), while The Leela Bhartiya City Bengaluru followed in 2021 in the city’s Special Economic Zone.
Where is it?
On Old Airport Road, but unfortunately 45km from the new International Airport – which is at least an hour’s drive due to heavy traffic. Closer attractions include Cubbon Park (a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride) while Tipu Sultan’s Summer Palace is around 30 minutes drive.
What's it like?
Unsurprisingly palatial. The hotel’s pretty pink exterior dotted with copper domes is nestled in 2.8 hectares of landscaped gardens, blooming with flowers and palm trees – a tranquil scene that feels worlds away from the chaotic traffic outside the gates.
Somehow this facade doesn’t upstage the ornate interiors, which include carved walls, high gilded ceilings, gold leaf accents, antiques and paintings galore – plus natural light from the large windows. While it may not be a true palace, the Indo-Saracenic architecture draws inspiration from the Mysore Palace in Karnataka – so much so that we were surprised it was built in 2001 and not from a bygone era.
The open-air entrance is enchanting, with marble pillars and large decorative doors depicting a peacock’s wings, while gold elephant-adorned gates are located to the back of the property. Throughout the grounds you’ll spot sculptures of mythical Hindu creatures, including ‘Yali’ – part lion, elephant and horse – often seen in 16th century temples. The hotel also displays works by artist Bhim Singh Hada, including the portrayal of the Wadiyar brothers from the royal family of Mysore.
Guests must put their luggage through a security scanner outside before entering into the open-plan lobby, where there’s plenty of seating areas and a dramatic winding staircase which is popular for photo backdrops. We checked in at 4.30am, which I’m told is a busy time for the hotel given the arrival of flights from the UK and US, and staff were quick to provide keys and transport luggage to rooms so we could catch up on sleep.
Guests are encouraged to take part in ceremonial rituals throughout the stay. We participated in the evening aarti in the lobby, whereby women in traditional attire light the diyas in front of The Devi – though I dripped wax on myself while trying to light the tall candles. Further experiences include a theatrical Yakshagana, where stories are told through dance, music and costumes.
The property also has a great partnership with Phool, an NGO which upcycles petals from floral arrangements to create incense sticks and cones. This organisation employs women from marginalised communities in India, and upcycles more than 10 tonnes of flower waste per year.
Rooms
The 357 rooms and suites start from a generous 50 sqm, and feature opulent design, with dark wood, plush fabrics and patterned rugs, but remain comfortable and homely.
Notable are the 76 Royal Club rooms (also 50 sqm) with access to the club lounge, which offers express check-in/check-out and complimentary food and beverages. VIPs including presidents and royals have instead stayed in the 325 sqm Maharaja Suite, which comes with an optional guest room, a huge bathroom with steam cubicle and jacuzzi, and high security (even within the corridor to the accommodation).
Amenities in all room categories include a minibar, kettle with teabags and coffee bags (no coffee machine), complimentary cookies and small water bottles. There’s also a pillow menu if you are fussy. Turn-down service was beautiful, and the king bed had high-quality, soft linen.
While it has a historical feel in its aesthetic, rooms feature modern amenities for today’s tech traveller – Bengaluru is India’s Silicon Valley after all. The rooms have an HD TV, touchscreen light switches beside the bed, bedside table USB sockets and universal plug sockets at the desk. Wifi was also fast, but disappeared in various areas of the hotel.
Bathrooms, meanwhile, feature dark carved wood and marble accents, plus Tishya by The Leela toiletries in recyclable packing, fluffy white robes and slippers, a hairdryer and various items that you might have forgotten – from a bamboo toothbrush to a comb. The walk-in shower had a powerful hand-held shower plus a rain shower, and there was a bath adjacent to this.
Food and drink
There’s plenty of dining options at this palace – from the high-end Jamavar for Indian cuisine to all-day Citrus which offers excellent buffets, pan-Asian Zen and dinner destination Le Cirque Signature for French and Italian food. Service is friendly, but can be a little slow, and there are alfresco dining terraces throughout.
Jamavar is outstanding, with every inch of the lavish dining room adorned in patterned fabrics with luxurious carpets, gold leaf wall paintings and silver table settings. As soon as you enter the gilded room you are also overcome by the smell of delicious spices.
Choose the set menu (US$60 for two people) if you feel overwhelmed by the choice. We loved the creamy dal, cauliflower bezule (fried florets with curry leaves, chilli and yoghurt), and bharwaan gulab jamun dessert (golden fried cheese dumplings in rose syrup). I’m looking forward to trying Jamavar’s outpost in London’s Mayfair next.
Head to ZLB 23, open from 6.30pm to 1am, for an unmissable nightcap. The hidden bar befits its speakeasy status – unlike some establishments that market themselves as speakeasies nowadays. You’ll find it in Zia’s Garden (that’s my only clue) and dimly lit, theatrical interiors are inspired by Kyoto and the Prohibition era.
Meetings
The hotel is well-designed for meetings, events and weddings, boasting two ballrooms (409 sqm and 250 sqm) and 12 board and meeting rooms. We can vouch for the great Maharaja Ballroom which hosted Virgin Atlantic’s launch party for its new route to Bengaluru – a well organised event with delicious catering, Virgin-branded tuk tuks and great entertainment.
Leisure
The hotel has a spa with a sauna, steam room, jacuzzi and treatment rooms, plus a fitness centre and beautiful outdoor pool with plenty of shade for those looking to escape the sun. There’s also a shopping arcade (The Leela Galleria).
Verdict
A splendid hotel filled with nature and history – a fitting reminder of Bengaluru’s moniker as India’s Garden City. Rooms are well designed for both business and leisure guests, with impressive event spaces and delicious restaurants too.
FACT BOX
- Best for Grand stays and great food
- Don’t miss The sneaky speakeasy
- Price Internet rates for a flexible midweek stay in May start from INR20,000/£191 for a Deluxe Room including breakfast
- Contact 23 HAL Airport Road, Bengaluru 560 008, India; +91 80 2521 1234; theleela.com
