Hotel check: Excelsior Hotel Ernst

WHAT’S IT LIKE? Positioned right in the city centre, opposite the cathedral, this five-star Leading Hotels of the World property originally opened in 1863 as the Hotel Ernst, but between 1908 and 1910 it was torn down and completely rebuilt, and then renamed Grand Excelsior hotel Ernst. (Guests at this time were said to be astonished that many of the bedrooms had their own bathrooms – an example of how luxurious the property was even then.)

In 1986, 29 more rooms were added as part of an extension – a six-floor tower topped by a glass dome and with a spiral staircase running down the centre of it. (The rest of the hotel has five floors.) A small spa and fitness centre were installed in 2000 and, a year later, the hotel’s on-site restaurant Taku opened. Over the last few years, different parts of the hotel have been undergoing renovations – in 2007, a €7 million revamp saw 23 Deluxe double rooms and 12 suites redesigned. So as to remain open during the refurbishment programme, certain areas of the hotel are being done in turn – the next three floors will be done in June.

Expect lavish interiors with clunky lifts, squeaky floorboards and lots of gold, and choose from either olde worlde or neutral modern bedrooms. Keys are traditional heavy ones that you need to drop off and pick up from reception.

WHERE IS IT? Opposite the cathedral in the centre of Cologne – two minutes’ walk from the main shopping streets and Koln Hauptbahnof station that connects to the airport 15km away with frequent services.  

HOW MANY ROOMS? There are 142 bedrooms across eight categories including 42 Standard rooms at 15-18 sqm (single) or 26-30 sqm (double), 13 Superior rooms at 23-25 sqm, 53 Deluxe rooms at 18-25 sqm (single) or 34-42 sqm (double), 15 Junior suites at 32-43 sqm, nine traditional Suites at 45-48 sqm, two Business suites at 68 sqm in the Hanse wing, six Executive suites at 56-90 sqm, and two Excelsior suites at 64-84 sqm.

ROOM FACILITIES Décor, design and fittings vary widely as some are much more contemporary, following refurbishment, whereas others are very old fashioned, chintzy and twee. There is a choice of smoking and non-smoking. (Note that guests can also smoke in the lobby.) In-room features that come as standard include a free minibar with water, juice and Kolsch beer, a safe, wired and wifi internet access (€19 for 24 hours), satellite and pay TV, tube televisions (that will be replaced with flatscreens at some point), robes and combined baths and showers. (Many of the higher category rooms have separate baths and showers.)

My Junior suite had been revamped in 2007 and looked much fresher and more appealing than the fusty, traditional-style rooms. It had an open-plan living room and bedroom with a pull-out flatscreen TV that could be angled towards the bed, a sofa and a coffee table, a walk-in wardrobe area with a safe and a full-length mirror. The windows in the room could be opened to let in fresh air but the views were just of the back of a building, so not very scenic.

The marble bathroom had separate bath and huge walk-in rainshower, twin sinks, shaving mirror, under-floor heating, and a toilet with a door connecting to the entry hall and divided from the rest of the bathroom by a sliding glass panel (don’t leave it across, though, as you could easily walk into it, especially in the middle of the night).

ROOM HIGHLIGHTS The walk-in rainshower, free minibar, and stylish contemporary décor.

RESTAURANTS AND BARS The dining offering at the Excelsior is varied. Hanse Stube specialises in gourmet French and regional German cuisine and is on the ground floor. Food is served daily from 12pm to 2.30pm, and 6.30pm-10.30pm. The Riesling lounge next door is open 5pm-11pm, and is the perfect place to explore the often under-rated wine.

A high-class, all-you-can-eat Sunday brunch is served at the Gubelarsaal (also on the ground floor, just opposite reception) from 12pm to 3pm. The lavish buffet of hot and cold dishes ranges from freshly prepared oysters, omelettes and sushi, to roasted meat and veg, and chocolate fondue. When I ate there, the service was attentive and the wafting live piano music made it feel very civilised and relaxed, and as for the food, there was almost too much to choose from. The brunch costs €59 per person (€79 with Deutz champagne or €210 with Dom Perignon). Breakfast is served here 7am-11am.

I also ate in Taku one evening, which describes itself as “the house of Asian delights” and is on the basement level. It’s open daily for lunch and dinner (the same times at Hanse Stube) and serves artistically prepared Japanese, Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Indonesian and Malaysian dishes. Although portions are small – even the bread brought to the table is a selection of miniature, freshly baked rolls – the flavours are so finely balanced and satisfying you feel you have eaten just the right amount.

I had Indian spinach soup with vegetable pakoras and roasted shallots (€11), which was exceptionally delicious, followed by Asian vegetables from the wok (€19). I also sampled the banana chocolate smoothie with roasted cashew nuts (€11), which was heavenly. The only downside to eating here on a Sunday evening was that it was very quiet so lacked atmosphere, and although the sections of glass floor with fish swimming underneath were an unusual feature, it made the eatery feel more like a spa than a restaurant. The staff were calm and attentive.

For those with bigger appetites, there is a “small journey” four-course menu for €65 (€97 including wine) or a “large journey” six-course menu for €85 (€125 with wine). Dishes include tatar of Ikarimi salmon with roasted shallots and shiso cress, teriyaki of scallop on glazed water spinach, and fried and braised veal on sweet potato and pak choi.

BUSINESS AND MEETING FACILTIES There is a good range of opulent and distinct venues for hire at the Excelsior, making it particularly good for business travellers. There are 13 events spaces including Gobelin Saal (the largest, at 166 sqm) with high ceilings, tapestries and opulent chandeliers, and the Winter Garden, a blue room that connects to the Gobelin Saal and the Van Dyck Salon, and sits beneath a stained-glass roof. The Petit Palais, accessed via a spiral staircase and overlooking an outdoor patio, can host 30 people for drinks. Salon 102 is particularly attractive – with views of the cathedral and pale blue, baroque-style décor. It can seat 35 delegates. All rooms have natural daylight and come with a butler and air conditioning.

Half-day and full-day delegate packages are available and include room rental, freshly squeezed juices, a two-course business lunch, coffee breaks, stationary, and an LCD projector and screen. The hotel also provides extra conferencing technology for rental such as LCD projectors and specialist lighting. Guests also have access to a 24-hour business centre on the mezzanine level with two PCs and a printer.

LEISURE FACILITIES There is no pool but there is a very small unisex spa with a steam room, sauna and rainshower on the sixth floor, and a gym adjacent, with two step machines, one cross trainer, two treadmills, and two multifunction strength training machines. Both are open 7am-10pm.

VERDICT A unique, centrally located business hotel that exudes charm and character, yet also features a good selection of facilities including high-class eateries and events venues. Make sure you opt for a newly refurbished room if you can.

PRICE Internet rates for a midweek stay in mid April started from €250 for a Standard double room.

CONTACT Excelsior Hotel Ernst, 1-5 Trankgasse, Domplatz; tel +49 221 2701; excelsiorhotelernst.com

Jenny Southan