Queen’s Road East, Wan Chai
General vibe
The district of Wan Chai, nestled between Admiralty, Causeway Bay and Happy Valley, has for decades been a centre of entertainment, where workers from the surrounding CBDs come to unwind. It has a distinctly low-key atmosphere, with bustling street markets and rustic historical relics alongside 24-hour bars flanked by ladies of the night. Recently, a series of upmarket developments, particularly along Queen’s Road East, have breathed fresh life into this area, which has still managed to maintain its down-to-earth, gritty appeal.
This has allowed the area to evolve a unique new character, where messy street markets and local food haunts remain doggedly among the Hong Kong Convention Centre and classy establishments such as office building Pacific Place Three and Hotel Indigo. The late-night venues along Lockhart Road remain as popular and busy as they were during the days of sailors and Suzy Wong, while historical sites such as old housing tenements, temples and street markets are maintained, and frequented as they have been for centuries.
Major hotel openings
Hotel Indigo Hong Kong Island opened on April 10, and it’s the design and
service that really stands out at this 138-room boutique hotel. The exterior of the building features a golden dragon motif that comes alight at night.
242-246 Queen’s Road East; tel +852 3926 3888; www.ihg.com
V Wanchai² is a 79-room boutique hotel that opened in March and also focuses on chic design and a unique hotel experience.
139 Thomson Road; tel+852 3948 4800; www.thev.hk
One block towards the harbour, at the junction of Hennessey and Johnston Roads, Thailand-based Onyx group has taken over two-decade-old The Wesley and will reopen it as Ozo Wesley later this year, with 251 rooms and modern amenities. It will be a select-service property that seeks to be a more affordable alternative to the nearby five-star hotels such as Shangri-La, JW Marriott and Conrad.
22 Hennessy Road; tel +852 2292 3000; www.onyx-hospitality.com
Mira Moon Wanchai is also poised to open its doors very soon. The 91-room hotel is the sister property of The Mira Hong Kong, which is located in Tsim Sha Tsui, and is designed with a similarly trendy, boutique feel to it.
388 Jaffe Road; tel +852 2315 5618; www.miramoonhotel.com
Transport connections
Wan Chai is at the centre of Hong Kong’s comprehensive public transport network. It is located on the blue Island line of the MTR (mass transit railway), and is just two stops, or five minutes’ travel, from Central. From Admiralty, the stop in between, you can connect with the Tsuen Wan line that takes you across the harbour to Tsim Sha Tsui and Kowloon.
Many bus stops line the streets of Wan Chai, with buses stopping every minute to take you onwards to almost anywhere in Hong Kong. Taxis are everywhere and one can be flagged down in a matter of seconds. The central tram line, which provides a quaint and cheap way to get from one side of the island to the other, runs through this part of town along Johnston Road.
The new
Located on the street that used to be the heart of Hong Kong’s licensed brothel operation before public health legislation changed in 1930, 22 Ships (www.22ships.hk) is now one of the coolest tapas bars in Hong Kong. No reservations are taken, so get there early. Its founding chef Jason Atherton has worked for famous restaurants such as El Bulli, so he’s not afraid of experimenting with local ingredients (durian is the only one he says “I haven’t got my head around” – so far). He has restaurants in London as well as Singapore. He is also planning a “secret wine bar” nearby. One tapas dish at this venue costs about HK$100-200 (US$13-25).
Stone Nullah Tavern (www.stonenullah tavern.com) is only open in the evenings, when it comes alive with great atmosphere and service. Vinnie the chef is said to make the best chicken wings in Hong Kong (HK$100/US$13), plus much more. It’s also an ideal place for a tipple as the beer and wine selection is extensive.
Newly opened Barcelona-style restaurant Catalunya (www.catalunya.hk) has been boasting a long waiting list since it opened in late March. Its nearly 8,000 square feet (743 sqm) of space is constantly fully seated, and its bar buzzes nightly. Other than the tapas, two of the bestsellers here are the Mediterranean red prawns and lobster rice. The cocktails are also famous, but at HK$120 (US$15.5) a pop, they’re pretty hefty.
The old
A number of street markets branch off Queen’s Road East, selling all manner of merchandise from flowers and trinkets to fruit and vegetables. Tai Yuen (Toy) Street is popular among the young at heart, while cheap clothing can be bought in Spring Garden Lane.
Happy Cake shop, also located on Queens Road East, is something of a Wan Chai legend. This cake shop has been open 40 years and prices are kept competitive (under HK$40/US$5) regardless of its huge popularity.
The Blue House Cluster is on Stone Nullah Lane, and its distinctive façade can be spotted from Queen’s Road East. This group of tenement buildings have remained essentially the same since the 1920s, and make for an interesting contrast to the increasingly sleek surrounding buildings.
Hung Shing Temple was built in 1847 and is situated directly on Queen’s Road East. It is interesting to visit, but is first and foremost used to worship Hung Shing on the 1st and 15th day of every lunar month, as well as the birthday of Kwun Yum, Goddess of Mercy.
Northern Dumplings is a 40-year-old diminutive hole in the wall that serves up steaming pork dumplings in hot and sour soup (about HK$40/US$5) and receives rave reviews from its dedicated patrons. These days it is run by the son of the original owner, and is open for lunch and dinner on Queens Road East – but queues can get long.
Time out/entertainment
Just left of the Blue House is a small lane with a well-kept secret that serves as a refreshing alternative to the debauchery of the watering holes on Lockhart Road. Tai Lung Fung is a small, unimposing bar kitted out in authentic 60s décor. The pink neon sign on the outside of the old shophouse is the first thing that identifies it, then the old newspapers, clocks, chairs, bar and tiled floor of the interior invite you to continue to bask in the nostalgic vibe of old Hong Kong that the Blue House next door represents. Drinks are reasonably priced, and snacks are also available.
5 Hing Wan Street; tel +852 2572 0055, happy hour 6-9pm
Another popular venue for a sophisticated tipple is The Pawn – so called because it’s housed in an old tenement building that used to include a pawnshop. This is now a refined gastro-pub serving delicious cocktails, platters and British food, albeit slightly pricey (mains are about HK$200/US$25). It’s usually quite busy, but if you can get yourself a seat on the balcony overlooking the tramline this is an ideal spot for a drink before visiting the hip eateries on Ship Street.
62 Johnston Road; tel +852 2866 3444; www.thepawn.com.hk, happy hour 5-8pm Mon-Thurs
Many rooftop venues make use of Hong Kong’s iconic skyline as a breathtaking backdrop for evening misadventures, but none is quite like this one. Australian steakhouse chain Wooloomooloo has a bar on the rooftop of The Hennessy building that boasts unbelievable views of the harbour, Happy Valley and Central, from an unusual and intriguing angle. The bar itself is in the centre of the rooftop, and serves cocktails for about HK$100 (US$12). There are a number of chairs and tables – as well as heaters during the winter – but this venue too gets busy, so come early and grab a seat to avoid disappointment.
31/F & Rooftop The Hennessy, 256 Hennessy Road; tel +852 2893 6960; www.wooloo-mooloo.com
Sheung Wan
General vibe
This area to the west of Central used to be known as a “very local” neighbourhood, with one of the characteristics being the clusters of shops selling pungent dried seafood (primarily abalone, shark’s fin and fish maw), Chinese medicine (ranging from herbs to more exotic dried seahorses and geckos), and bird’s nest (a Chinese delicacy), most of them around Wing Lok Street near the MTR exit. There are also a few famous Chiu Chow restaurants, as Sheung Wan used to be where immigrants from the coastal Guangdong town congregated and did business.
There were once a lot of print shops as well, but one by one these have been pushed out by trendy cafés and restaurants, gallery spaces and unique shops. But the most interesting part of Sheung Wan is farther up the hill, where small streets with little vehicle traffic have given birth to artsy hangouts that only those in the know are privy to.
Major hotel openings
The name Holiday Inn Express Hong Kong Soho might give the impression it’s near the dining district of Soho, but it’s actually 15-20 minutes’ walk away. However, there is enough around to keep one busy. This limited-service hotel, opened at the end of last year, has 274 guestrooms and harbour view meeting rooms on the 38th floor.
83 Jervois Street; tel +852 3417 8888; www.ihg.com
Hotel Ibis Hong Kong Central and Sheung Wan, opened last August, is probably one of the biggest properties under Accor’s limited-service brand. It faces the tramline and is a few minutes’ walk from Western Market.
28 Des Voeux Road West, tel +852 2252 2929; www.accor.com
Ovolo 286 QRC, relaunched last summer, is by the fast-expanding Hong Kong-based Ovolo group, which also has a hotel in Melbourne and serviced apartments around town. Its 60-room property on Queen’s Road emphasises functionality, convenience and a touch of the whimsical, as seen in its “Loot Bags” given to every guest.
286 Queen’s Road Central; tel +852 2165 1000; www.ovologroup.com
Transport connections
Sheung Wan is the western terminus of the blue Island line – at least for now, as the West Island Line extension opens in about a year’s time. It is also quite possible to walk here from Central, or take a short westbound ride on the tram and get off at the red-brick Western Market – a heritage building. Alternatively, many buses pass through this area, or finish at the bus terminus by the harbour next to the Macau ferry pier.
The new
A small French community seems to have sprung up here – starting with La Creperie (69 Jervois Street, tel +852 2679 4666) next to the Holiday Inn Express, where on weekends a crowd of both locals and expats pack the place for both the savoury and sweet crêpes, as well as dishes such as super Eckmuhl galette (French reblochon cheese, potatoes, lardoons and onions). Set lunch costs HK$88 (US$11).
Right around the corner on Hillier Street, before the steps leading up to Queen’s Road Central, La Rotisserie (255 Queen’s Road Central; tel +852 2324 1898) always attracts queues for its takeaway chicken, with a quarter-chicken starting from HK$50 (US$6.50).
About 5-10 minutes’ walk up the hill, on Wah Lane hidden near the junction of Hollywood Road and Possession Street, French canteen La Cantoche sits right next to a local Chinese canteen, except here you are also invited to hang out and play table football or darts. Graffiti on the walls completes the urban chic package. The menu allows you to construct your own dish – selecting the meat first and its accompanying sides. The mash is deliciously creamy, and the homemade nougat ice cream with crushed M&Ms is the perfect round-off dish. It costs about HK$200 (US$26) per person for dinner.
From Hollywood Road, find Pound Lane next to trendy Italian restaurant 208 Duecento Otto and walk up four flights of stairs to discover Café Loisl (G/F, Shop A, 8 Tai On Terrace, tel +852 9179 0209), where a little piece of European café culture can be found in a quiet cul de sac that sees very little traffic. Just follow the aroma. A cappuccino costs HK$36 (US$4.60), and food specials are offered on weekends such as wiener schnitzel for HK$98 (US$12.60) with a cup of coffee included.
Across the street from Loisl, Parisian fragrance maker Lampe Berger (28 Pound Lane, tel +852 2568 1381) has set up a low-key showroom/office worth browsing. Farther along on Tai On Terrace Plantation (www.plantation.hk), set up like a little cottage, is a supper club and event space for rent. Using the venue for half a day costs HK$100 (US$13), with tea and homemade baked items included.
If you have taken some great photos of Hong Kong and want to turn them into a coffee table book, AO: The Photo Book Center back on Hollywood Rd (www.aophotobook.com) can custom-make a 28-page book for you for HK$1,333 (US$172). For a more modest souvenir, a little notebook with a tailored cover costs just HK$100 (US$13), and you can also choose to have calendars or mounted photos made.
The old
Despite the influx of hipsters’ hangouts, Sheung Wan still maintains much of its old-school charm. What even many locals have forgotten is that Pound Lane was home to some of the earliest inhabitants, dating back to the 19th century, and the few temples around that corner have links to those times. Possession Street was also where the British colonists first landed.
Walk down Possession and through Bonham Strand and you will soon spot the century-old Western Market (www.westernmarket.com.hk). Much of the structure has been maintained but it has been turned into more or less a mini-mall. Other than having dim sum at the Grand Stage restaurant on the upper level (where you can admire the original Edwardian walls and ceiling), another tourist attraction here is the first floor fabric market. Lee Loy Piece Goods (Shop 8, tel +852 2544 3917) has suit cloth starting from HK$450 (US$58) a yard (you need 3.5 yards for a two-piece suit). Owner Chan Sun can also recommend a local tailor, where it costs HK$2,000 (US$258) to have the suit made. Three Geniuses (Shop 14, tel +852 2815 3971) specialises more in women’s clothes, and a cheongsam can be made for about HK$1,845 (US$238).
If you choose to stay on Hollywood and walk westward, you will reach the famous Man Mo Temple (124-130 Hollywood Road, open 8am-6pm), which is more than 150 years old, where you can have your fortune told for a fee. Afterwards, head down the steps to reach Cat Street antique market, where pieces of all sizes and prices are on display, in shops or on the street. Remember to bargain.
Time out/entertainment
There isn’t a big bar scene in Sheung Wan yet, although the ground floor of 208 Duecento Otto has a fantastic bar area – the few seats facing out to the street are constantly occupied.
208 Hollywood Road; tel: +852 2549 0208; www.208.com.hk
Jervois Street is also home to two of the city’s most popular gay bars – Volume Beat and Zoo. Their crowds spill into the street until late night on weekends, and Volume is also popular for its weekly free-vodka hour, from 9pm-10pm every Wednesday. 62 and 33 Jervois Street; tel Volume Beat +852 2857 7683, Zoo +852 3583 1200; www.volumebeat.com.hk
Tseung Kwan O
General vibe
Located by a long, narrow inlet in the southern part of Sai Kung District in the Southeast New Territories, Tseung Kwan O is flanked by Clear Water Bay Peninsula to the east, Tseung Kwan O Bay (also known as Junk Bay) to the south, East Kowloon to the west, and Tseng Lan Shue to the north. Most of the land here is reclaimed and the town centre was only developed about two decades ago, so the general feel is a little sterile, with most activity now taking place in malls. But there are villages short distances away worth visiting.
New hotel openings
Two new hotels opened late last year right next to the Tseung Kwan O MTR station: the 300-room Holiday Inn Express and the 359-room Crowne Plaza Hong Kong Kowloon East. The station is only three stops away from the commercial hub of Quarry Bay on Hong Kong Island.
3 Tong Tak Street; tel +852 3199 5588; www.hiexpress.com/kowlooneast, tel +852 3983 0388; www.crowneplaza.com/kowlooneast.
Business travellers on a long-term visit of at least a month or more can check out Vega Suites, a 173-suite serviced apartment complex located on the upper floors above Holiday Inn Express.
+852 3963 7888; www.vegasuites.com.hk
Transport
Tseung Kwan O (TKO) is surrounded by steep hills on three sides, so the New Town is physically segregated from East Kowloon and Clear Water Bay Peninsula. In 1986, the TKO tunnel was constructed to improve road access to the area. In August 2002, the MTR Corporation opened the 12.3km TKO line, allowing for an easy commute by train to Quarry Bay in 15 minutes and Central in half an hour.
The old
The abandoned Mau Wu Shan fortress, or observation post as it is also called, is worth a visit. It was built around 1898 to monitor maritime movements during the Qing Dynasty. It has been declared a Grade 1 historic building. Mau Wu Shan is also along one of the lesser-known hiking trails in Hong Kong.
The new
The 1,790-hectare New Town includes the districts of Tsui Lam, Po Lam, Hang Hau, Town Centre, Tiu Keng Leng, Pak Shing Kok, Siu Chik Sha, Tai Chik Sha and Fat Tong O. It is a predominantly residential community of more than 300,000 people. In the last decade, after the opening of the MTR service, a number of new private housing estates have been developed.
Time out/entertainment
The Island Golf Club Driving Range, which opened in 2010, is one of the largest in Hong Kong with 166 practice bays.
3 Chi Shen Street; tel +852 2513 9888; www.islandgolf.com.hk
Shaw Studios is also quite impressive – the huge complex houses sophisticated film production facilities, and can be booked for corporate events.
201 Wan Po Road; tel +852 3123 1111; www.shawstudios.hk
Residential estates are clustered around the MTR stations along the Tseung Kwan O line and many are mixed-use developments that include sprawling shopping malls. These malls offer diverse retail, F&B and entertainment options. Local colour can be found in the homegrown shops in these complexes; the new Popcorn Mall above Tseung Kwan O MTR station is particularly trendy, with a lot of upscale international brand shops.
+852 3543 1273; www.popcorntko.com.hk
Po Lam’s Metro City Phase II Mall houses popular brands such as H&M and Zara.
8 Yan King Road; tel +852 3194 3200; www.metrocityplaza.com
For atmospheric dining, Cielo on the 47th floor of Crowne Plaza is appealing, especially if you want to enjoy some alfresco bar action afterwards. For some pampering, Sense of Spa on the hotel’s third floor has seven private garden rooms in which to unwind.
For an altogether different vibe, check out the villages, where a range of interesting places to eat can be found. One of the more popular restaurants among locals is Lardos Steak House, known for serving five-star restaurant steak in a no-frills environment. Its menu includes a range of steaks (costing between HK$135-199/US$17-26), pasta and seafood.
10-12B G/F Hang Hau Village; tel +852 2719 8168; http://tcdeli.com/lardos-steak-house/home/
For those craving the beach, Sai Kung is just a short ride from the new town – it’s one of the cleanest in Hong Kong and the seafood around the area is well worth the trip.
