John Brunton tries out a quartet of restaurants in the Belgian capital
OLD
Aux Armes de Bruxelles
Brussels institution Aux Armes specialises in traditional Belgian cuisine and is packed out every day. Located just off the Grand Place, the present restaurant and its cosy art deco interiors date back to 1921, but this has been the site of a tavern for centuries. Mussels are served in a steaming pot with a mountain of frites (e26), while foodies should try waterzooi, a hearty chicken stew (e19), or anguilles au vert – eels cooked in a rich parsley sauce (e28). The crêpes (e13) are theatrically flambéed with Mandarine Napoleon liqueur. Aux Armes de Bruxelles will temporarily close from July 15 until August 11.
Open Mon-Fri 12pm-10.45pm, Sat until 11.15pm, Sun until 10.30pm. 13 rue des Bouchers; tel +32 2511 5598; auxarmesdebruxelles.com
NEW
Beurre Noisette
Hot young chef Grégoire de Backer opened this retro-design diner in the chic Châtelain neighbourhood in October last year. There is a real buzz here at the moment, with de Backer creating inventive haute-cuisine at affordable prices. Lunch is one of the best deals in town – if you remember to reserve in advance – with a two-course set menu costing only e15 and including dishes such as red mullet mousse with a tart orange vinaigrette, or juicy suprême de volaille with a creamy purée of sweet potato. In the evening there is a delicious three-course gourmet tasting menu, paired with an excellent selection of wines – again, very reasonably priced at e56.
Open Tues-Sat 12pm-2pm and 7pm-10.30pm. 38 rue du Page; tel +32 2534 2155; beurrenoisette.be
VIEW
Le Restaurant du MIM
MIM is the Musical Instruments Museum, housed in a monumental steel and glass art nouveau building in Mont des Arts. The priceless collection of instruments is well worth a tour, but you can also take the lift direct to the top-floor restaurant, where the breathtaking views stretch from the royal palace and Magritte Museum to the Grand Place and opera house. In summer, dine on the sunny terrace; in winter, stay inside the glass cupola. The cuisine doesn’t quite match the panorama, so stick to simple dishes such as steak frites, gratin de chicons, endives, or a big salad with goats’ cheese and bacon. Main dishes cost e14-e19, and the dish of the day is e12. A popular e28 champagne brunch is served on Sundays.
Open Tues-Sun 10am-4.30pm. 2 rue Montagne de la Cour; tel +32 2502 9508; restomim.com
BORROWED
Toukoul
The latest hip address on Brussels’ vibrant ethnic dining scene, Toukoul proposes an exotic evening discovering the cuisine of Ethiopia. The name refers to a traditional African mud hut, and the stunning décor and friendly ambiance immediately transports diners far from the trendy Sainte-Catherine quarter. An Ethiopian meal is a shared experience, served on a communal plate, with diners using traditional injera bread to pick up tasty morsels of spicy beef or chicken ragoût, curried fish and a host of tasty vegetarian dishes. End with a buna – intense Ethiopian coffee accompanied by smoky incense. Main dishes cost e15-e18.
Open daily 12pm-3.30pm, 6pm-11.30pm. 34 rue de Laeken; tel +32 2223 7377; toukoul.be
