Shenzhen, China's pioneering economic showcase, has lately suffered some bad press concerning security. But its dining, shopping, nightlife and spa options remain too attractive to resist, says Julian Tan.
Over two decades ago, who would have thought that Shenzhen, once a small fishing village, would become an early showcase of China’s economic aspirations? Since the country’s late maverick leader Deng Xiaoping designated it a Special Economic Zone in 1980, this unique hub has never looked back.
Like many cities in China, Shenzhen is reinventing itself at a speed that leaves industry observers and frequent visitors amazed and often wondering what the next big project being lined up is. But unlike most places, Shenzhen has felt the extra heat to come up with a new game plan. Its success as a manufacturing centre produced the inevitable consequences of higher wages and expenses, which have undermined profit margins and forced labour-intensive enterprises to go elsewhere. High-tech startups and R&D have been seen as the key to continued survival.
Shenzhen’s downtown area remains a work in progress, and the current buzz revolves around Futian, the new central business precinct dotted with freshly minted landmarks such as the Shenzhen Convention & Exhibition Center and Shenzhen Civic Center. A magnet for brand name chains, it has attracted the Marco Polo and Fraser Corporate Residences and, shortly, the Sheraton will also open its doors. In other parts of the city, excellent accommodation is provided by the Shangri-La, InterContinental, Crowne Plaza, Kempinski, Fraser Suites Shekou and Four Points by Sheraton (a classy four star verging on a five star).
While reports of petty street crime and the occasional sensational hold-ups (the Luohu shopping centre, next to the border crossing between Hongkong and Shenzhen, is a favourite haunt of thieves) have increased, discouraging a number of Hongkong and overseas tourists alike from shopping there for bargain buys, residents like Marco Polo Hotel general manager Henk Meyknecht downplay the situation. He says: “Shenzhen is undergoing massive social and urban changes. I personally feel safe on the streets and in the shopping centres. Futian, where our hotel is located, also appears to be relatively safe. The local authorities are doing their best to enforce a high level of security.”
A Singaporean, working in Shenzhen for over five years, adds: “Crime rates are lower now, especially in the city area, as a result of more security stationed along main streets and in bus stops and malls.”
Such risks aside, Shenzhen still presents an irresistible quick getaway for the harrassed Hongkong everyman. Restaurants serving lip-smacking regional cuisine abound as does a plethora of discos and karaoke bars. For massage junkies it is nirvana, with a range of spas that now include upmarket establishments touting reasonable prices, some less than half of those in Hongkong. Here is a sample.
BODY
Mandara Spa
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: The lift from the lobby of Marco Polo Shenzhen opens up to a large reception and waiting area on the fourth floor. This is China’s third Mandara Spa, with two others at Sheraton Sanya Resort and JW Marriott Hotel Shanghai at Tomorrow Square. The cosy and somewhat romantic ambience was enhanced by the use of warm lighting, stone, wood and ceramic decorative pieces and cushions in rich fabric. Unlike the conventional establishments that reek of strong aromatherapy fragrances, this one had a “clean” smell.
THE FACILITIES: The 1,000-square-metre spa houses a VIP double spa suite with an oversized terrazzo Jacuzzi and day beds, two double spa suites, eight single treatment rooms and a beauty salon (for hair, manicure and pedicure as well as waxing services). Spa guests have access to the outdoor swimming pool, sauna and steam room.
OPENING HOURS: From 1000 to 2200 daily.
TYPES OF TREATMENTS: Indonesian, Thai and Oriental. Ladies can choose from a wide-ranging spa menu such as 45-minute body treatments with a choice of sea salt, rose and coffee (US$52), 90-minute Aroma Hot Stone Therapy (US$101) and the 3.5-hour Ultimate Indulgence (US$217) which includes a floral foot ritual, body scrub, tea and milk bath, an hour of Aromatic or Sports massage and facial. Men can opt for Manscape (US$142/2.5 hours of body and foot pampering), Mandara Man (US$114/2.5 hours of hand and foot treatment plus facial), Gentlemen’s Own facial (US$62) or hand and foot treatments (from US$23).
THE EXPERIENCE: After I had picked my body massage oil (Tranquillity, a blend of vetiver, lavender and ylang ylang which was perfect for my limbs weary from a day’s rushing about), a staff member led me to the Tiger Eye Room, complete with a shower. This was where it all took place: a rose petal and mint foot soak followed by Rose Body Polish (US$52 for 45 minutes).
Lying on the bed, I psyched myself into a mental state of tranquillity as the therapist Eileen began working her magic with a concoction of rose powder, crushed rose petals and almond oil, which, she told me, helps remove dead cells on sensitive skin. Following this, I slid into the shower indulging in Mandara’s luxurious bath products. Next, I was back on the bed where she continued the treatment, applying strokes with just the right amount of pressure while focusing on my shoulders as I had requested. Soon I was lulled to sleep, waking up only to her gentle nudge.
VERDICT: A seamless execution.
CONTACT: Marco Polo Shenzhen, 4th floor, Temeisi Plaza, Fuhua 1st Road, Futian CBD, Shenzhen 518048, China, tel 86 755 8298 9888 ext 8589/8590, www.mspa-international.com
HAIR
Spa Moment
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Located on the sixth floor of Four Points by Sheraton Shenzhen, the bright and airy facility comprises individual glass-covered rooms on one floor, which slightly resembles a business centre. Two uniformed reception staff greeted me from behind a large working desk. Nearby is a sofa set with a matching coffee table.
THE FACILITIES: A rainforest Vichy shower, one double and nine single spa treatment rooms and a hair salon – which consists of an area for services like cut, styling and colour and a two-seater VIP room equipped with a CD player offering a choice of Cantonese and Chinese songs as well as the sounds of nature.
OPENING HOURS: From 0930 to 2400 daily.
TYPES OF TREATMENT: Treatments are based on the Tibetan medicine theory and methods dating back to the eighth century. The one-hour Purifying Orange Sea Salt body treatment (US$75) combines cleansing and Vichy shower massage for treating dry skin and improving metabolism, while the Ancient Indian Body Massage with Essential Oil (US$78) offers 90 minutes of relaxation. Other beauty services include hand and foot treatments and Hair Spa which uses in-house herbal formulas and products from American hair-care brand Rusk.
THE EXPERIENCE: For a change from the many body spa treatments I had been having, I opted for a hair spa (US$107 for one and a half to two hours) which combines nourishing and relaxing of the hair, scalp and root. After a wash, I was led to the “VIP room” where the hair specialist Xiao Long analysed my hair, scalp and root. Next, he wheeled over a tray filled with many bottles of all kinds of essential oils and began blending oils. My weather-battered hair needed plenty of moisture, he advised. “Two drops of rosemary oil for replenishing lost moisture and two drops of geranium oil to relax the hair mixed with carrot and lemon juices,” Xiao Long said matter-of-factly. With the help of an assistant, he carefully applied the concoction to my hair lengths and ends. Moving on to the scalp, he dipped his four fingers into another blend of essential oils and then tapped gently on my hair roots. The whole process took about an hour before I was up for a 15-minute oestrogen-gas steam, finished with a wash and blow dry – and a purchase of hair products.
VERDICT: A great way to “let down your hair”.
CONTACT: Four Points by Sheraton Shenzhen, 6th floor, 5 Guihua Road, Futian Free Trade Zone, Shenzhen 518038, China, tel 86 755 8358 8750.
BODY
Beauty Farm
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: After zipping around town for a day of meetings, I desperately needed to put my feet up and soak in a nice, hot tub. When I arrived at the second-floor spa in Crowne Plaza Shenzhen for my treatment, I knew I would be showered with attention, thanks to the welcoming staff who remained chirpy after five on a Friday.
THE FACILITIES: Housed within the 2,000-square-metre spa are three couple spa treatment rooms and three singles, a gym and swimming pool among others.
OPENING HOURS: From 1000 to 2300 daily.
TYPES OF TREATMENT: Treatments using products from German skincare brand Deynique. The spa menu includes one-hour aromatherapy (US$63) and Oriental (US$49) massages and hydrotherapy treatments.
THE EXPERIENCE: “You have good blood circulation,” the therapist Eva told me, looking at my red-hot face – a result of the hot shower and 25-minute detox bubble bath which prepared me well for my 75-minute hot stone massage (US$88). Next, I was asked to lie face down on the bed for the ritual to begin. She tenderly placed a hot stone above my belly button and more stones along my spine. Then she worked her way from the legs to the waist, back, shoulders and arms, massaging the aches out of every muscle using the heated stones while ensuring the heat of the stones matched my comfort level. After some 20 minutes, I turned over. This time she placed several different-sized hot stones on my stomach, forehead near the nose bridge, throat, palms and in between my toes “to improve the flow of energy in your body,” Eva told me, not forgetting to ask again if the stones were too hot for my liking. More massaging followed. By then, subconsciously I knew I was halfway to Dreamland.
VERDICT: Hot stuff.
CONTACT: Crowne Plaza Hotel Shenzhen, 2nd floor, 9026 Shennan Road, Overseas Chinese Town, Shenzhen 518053, China, tel 86 755 2693 6888 ext 8915.
HAND
Mei Li Jing Dian
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: This three-storey spa is tucked away in a residential high-rise, across the street from the Happy Valley theme park in the residential Overseas Chinese Town. The prominently displayed shop board outside ensures you won’t miss the spa. But if you do, ask for directions to Shun Dian, a popular neighbourhood department store which is a stone’s throw away.
THE FACILITIES: The place looks old but is tidy. Past the couple spa treatment room at ground level is a spiral staircase that leads to more treatment rooms and a Jacuzzi.
OPENING HOURS: From 1000 to 2300 daily.
TYPES OF TREATMENT: The whole package of body, hand and foot treatments using products from American, Swiss and German beauty brands including LCN, which, not one but two (or even three) therapists told me on separate occasions, is the official nail, hand and foot care product supplier to the Miss Hongkong Pageant. Yeah, right.
THE EXPERIENCE: From the start, I was immediately put at ease – my instinct told me that the therapists here were passionate about their job and good at it as well. It didn’t take long before we engaged in a conversation about beauty treatments (of course), eating out in Shenzhen, shopping and everything else under the sun, while I lay on the heated bed with my arms stretched out in the air for a pampering 40-minute hand and arm treatment (US$36 for a scrub, peel, massage and mask).
VERDICT: Go for the variety and a chance to interact with the locals. Staff are friendly but beware, are capable of hard-selling beauty packages. Don’t pretend to be interested if you’re really not.
CONTACT: Tongluowan Shun Dian (metro station: Hua Qiao Cheng), Overseas Chinese Town, Shenzhen 518053, China, tel 86 755 2694 1429.
FOOT
Zi Jing Ge
FIRST IMPRESSIONS: Nestled within the quiet surrounds of Overseas Chinese Town, this red brick-roofed spa next to a Chinese restaurant could be mistaken for another restaurant. (The spa’s main branch is situated in the nearby Futian business district.) The 13 concrete steps leading to its entrance heightened a sense of anticipation until I reached the top and was at once greeted by age-old Chinese hits from the likes of Andy Lau and Richie Ren blasting from speakers behind the reception.
THE FACILITIES: The sparsely furnished spa, which specialises in foot and back massages, boasts over 20 treatment rooms. The wooden floor room where I had my foot massage (US$6.50) was modestly decorated with a TV, two side tables and three green padded armchairs with footstools.
OPENING HOURS: From 1100-0100 daily.
TYPES OF TREATMENT: A variety of foot and back massages, manicure and pedicure at tempting prices starting from US$2.60 for pedicure, up to US$11.40 for an 80-minute back massage.
THE EXPERIENCE: The young, chatty therapist – whom I later knew was a Miss Gao or better known as No. 59 – turned on the TV in the room while I made myself comfortable in an armchair near the window that looked out to the square. Then she left and came back quickly with water and a slice of pomelo for me.
The ritual began with a 20-minute foot soak coupled with shoulder, back, head and thigh massages – all wonderfully executed with swift, firm rubbing and pounding (the 20-year-old seemingly had the strength of a man!). But that wasn’t the end of it all. The grand finale was the foot massage – powerful enough to give me a restful night after.
VERDICT: A serious treat.
CONTACT: 201 Xi Bu Shi Chang, Overseas Chinese Town, Shenzhen 518053, China, tel 86 755 2692 7415.
SHENZHEN HOTELS
CROWNE PLAZA
WHAT'S IT LIKE? A US$51.5 million investment with a Venetian theme. Opened in October 2001 and awarded a five-star rating in 2003.
WHERE IS IT? Located in the mainly residential Overseas Chinese Town and near tourist spots like Window of the World.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 375 guestrooms and suites, including three floors of Crowne Plaza Club Rooms.
ROOM FACILITIES: Private balconies in most of the guestrooms and amenities like satellite TV, separate shower, work area and internet access.
DINING: Cantonese at Marco’s, Italian at Blue, Japanese and Korean at JK and pizzas and international buffet at Café Zentro.
BARS: La Piazza in the lobby and V Bar by the pool area.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: Business centre is open 24/7; a pillarless grand ballroom accommodating up to 700 and eight function rooms.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Fitness club, indoor and outdoor swimming pools, health spa and a shopping arcade among others.
PRICE: From US$180 online for a three-night stay in early May.
CONTACT: 9026 Shennan Road, Overseas Chinese Town, Shenzhen 518053, China, tel 86 755 2693 6888, www.crowneplaza.com
FOUR POINTS BY SHERATON
WHAT'S IT LIKE? Launched in late 2004, this is the first property in China sporting the Four Points by Sheraton brand.
WHERE IS IT? Strategically located within the Futian Free Trade Zone and 30 minutes’ drive from the international airport.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 278 guestrooms including 21 suites, with average room sizes of 26sq m and 56 to 78sq m.
ROOM FACILITIES: Equipped with the Four Comfort Bed, complimentary high-speed internet connection, comfortable work desk and minibar.
DINING: Panash (Asian), China Spice (Cantonese), Taste (international) and a delicatessen.
BARS: Unwind at the day’s end with smooth grooves and cocktails at The Lounge.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: A total of 860sq m of meeting and banquet space. Wireless internet access is available (also in all F&B outlets and lobby).
LEISURE FACILITIES: A 24-metre heated outdoor pool, separate plunge pools, steam and sauna rooms, gym and beauty salon and spa.
PRICE: From US$80 online for a three-night stay in early May.
CONTACT: 5 Guihua Road, Futian Free Trade Zone, Shenzhen 518038, China, tel 86 755 8359 9999, www.fourpoints.com/shenzhen
MARCO POLO
WHAT'S IT LIKE? Opened on September 15 last year, it is the sixth Marco Polo hotel on the Mainland.
WHERE IS IT? In the heart of the Futian CBD and near the convention centre, subway station and the border crossing from Hongkong.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 391 guestrooms and suites; Continental Club is located on the 35th to 41st floors.
ROOM FACILITIES: Rooms ranging from 35 to 240sq m feature luxurious bathrooms, internet connection and personal safe.
DINING: Café Marco (Asian and international buffet), Futian Carrianna Chinese Restaurant (Chiu Chow) and Nishimura (Japanese).
BARS: Lobby Lounge, Wall Street Club for wine and cigars and California poolside juice bar.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: Grand ballroom accommodating 1,010, an auditorium for 275 theatre-style, 30 multifunction rooms and a business centre.
LEISURE FACILITIES: A health and fitness centre equipped with gym and sauna, an outdoor swimming pool and Mandara Spa.
PRICE: From US$159 online for a three-night stay in early May.
CONTACT: Fuhua 1st Road, Futian CBD, Shenzhen 518048, China, tel 86 755 8298 9888, www.marcopolohotels.com
THE PAVILION
WHAT'S IT LIKE? An oasis within the city, this five-star business hotel focuses on protecting the environment.
WHERE IS IT? Located in the commercial and shopping district, and accessible from the convention centre and theme parks.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 297 guestrooms and suites in the main tower and 237 in its Century Tower nearby.
ROOM FACILITIES: High-speed internet connection, The Pavilion Cosy Bed with a pillow menu, satellite TV and minibar among others.
DINING: International buffet at Café Pavilion, Chinese at
The Orchard, Cantonese at Phoenix House, Japanese at Kada and Korean at
Jin Gang Shan.
BARS: Greenland Lounge in the lobby, the all-American Gold Rush Bar, poolside bar and health bar.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: A pillarless grand ballroom for up to 700; three multifunction halls, eight conference rooms and business centre.
LEISURE FACILITIES: Gym, heated pool, tennis court, mini golf, sauna and spa, beauty salon and trimming centre among others.
PRICE: From US$156.40 online for a three-night stay in early May.
CONTACT: 4002 Huaqiang Road North, Shenzhen 518028, China, tel 86 755 8207 8888, www.pavilionhotel.com
SUNSHINE
WHAT'S IT LIKE? Recently refurbished its guestrooms and suites in the Imperial Wing, banquet room, sauna and spa and car park.
WHERE IS IT? A three-minute drive from Luohu Railway Station, near the subway station and shopping malls.
HOW MANY ROOMS? 315 guestrooms and suites in the main wing and 64 newly renovated ones in Imperial.
ROOM FACILITIES: Broadband internet connection, satellite TV, voicemail, safe and tea/coffee-making facilities among others.
DINING: Oriental Delight (buffet and à la carte), Melrose Grill (western) and The Connoisseur (European).
BARS: Cocktails and late-night entertainment at Moonlight Lounge on the lobby level.
BUSINESS FACILITIES: A multifunction hall for 400 theatre-style, banquet room with soundproof partitioning, four boardrooms and business centre.
LEISURE FACILITIES: An indoor pool with Jacuzzi, indoor nine-hole putting green, rock-climbing simulator, gym and spa among others.
PRICE: From US$118.50 for a three-night stay in early May.
CONTACT: 1 Jiabin Road, Shenzhen 518005, China, tel 86 755 8223 3888, www.sunshinehotel.com
