On the early morning drive from the Rwandan capital of Kigali through the mountainous countryside, the constant drumbeats in my head sounded “adventure” – with a capital A.
The country’s sheer beauty, the lush greenery and dense foliage were awe-inspiring. The winding road, mostly red dirt, led me and my companions to Ruhengeri where we took up base at the Virungas Lodge, an African-style accommodation perched on a hill looking across to the Virungas on one side and Lake Bulera on the other.
After an overnight stay at the lodge, we made our way in the morning to the briefing point where we learned that our assigned “gorilla family” were the Sabinyos, named after a mountain peak in the Virunga National Park.
We then began the three-hour trek snaking through picturesque farmlands, which eventually gave way to dense forest marked with tortuous mud paths and stinging nettles. During the experience, no one in our little band spoke much – as if each of us was mentally preparing for the encounter with mankind’s closest animal relative. No one even wondered aloud why our escorts, both ahead of and behind the group, were armed with AK-47s. (We were informed much later that these were precautionary measures, just in case wild buffalos decided to charge, and definitely not because we were skirting the border of the Democratic Republic of Congo where battles between rebel guerrillas break out at times. At least, that’s what they told us.)
Along the way, one of our guides received radio intelligence that a group of gorillas was spotted near our vicinity.
The information was correct. Further up the slope in the midst of a bamboo thicket was a captivating tableau: the youngsters engaged in rough play; the Silverback male keeping his proud distance as if he was above all the mundane activity; and the rest munching on tree bark and papaya roots. At first glance, you would have thought that it was a regular (human) family enjoying a picnic.
Much as we wanted to linger, we were only allowed about an hour to observe and photograph the rather noisy beasts, who played to stereotype, thumping on their chests as they always seem to do in those Tarzan movies.
The next day we set off for the Karisoke Research Centre, established in 1967 by the late primologist Dian Fossey whose controversial life and efforts to protect Rwanda’s gorilla population was immortalised in the poignant film Gorillas in the Mist.
Karisoke, coined from the names of Mount Karisimbi and Mount Visoke, is a strenuous 3,000m journey uphill through thick vegetation. A victim of Rwanda’s civil war in the 1990s, the camp is a ghost of its former self, having been looted and left with only a few buildings. There were the remnants of the cabin where Fossey was found mysteriously hacked to death on December 27, 1985, a case that remains open. Nearby is the “gorilla graveyard”, where the woman who loved them most was laid to rest beside Digit, her beloved gorilla friend, a victim of poachers.
Fortunately, Fossey’s legacy of primate research continues but is being carried out in the town of Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) in the Virungas National Park.
For those who had not yet run out of energy, our gorilla safari had a second leg – Uganda’s Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park.
For this particular experience, entry permits are extremely limited and the trek was predictably arduous, requiring us to crawl over thick brush and vines during a light drizzle to approach the gorilla group. But it turned out totally worth the money and effort.
Without warning, we found ourselves side by side with several members of the “family”, which sent a frisson down our backs but a delightful one at that. Who would have expected these habitants of the woods to be so bold and march smack into a circle of strangers?
As that thought was still running through my mind, I felt someone grabbing my leg and gently pushing me aside. Luckily, I remembered a few words of gorilla language, picked up in the briefing sessions held before we left for the mountains. Actually, they were more like grunting than verbal language as we know them. But it earned me acknowledgement from the cheeky pair that brushed past me.
I was in the way. It was their forest after all.
FAST FACTS
To get there: Daily flights on Kenya Airways from Nairobi, Kenya to Kigali, Rwanda; there are also flights from Brussels, Belgium. KLM will launch service from Amsterdam, The Netherlands, at the end of this month. Gorilla permits are US$500 per person per visit.
Hotels: For accommodation in the Rwandan capital, Kigali Serena Hotel (www.serenahotels.com/serenakigali/default-en.html) and the legendary Hotel des Mille Collines (www.millecollines.net), which has been completely renovated, are two of the popular choices.
SITES TO SEE
Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International
Volcanoes Safaris
A Week in the Wilds of Rwanda
Provided by Baobab Expeditions www.baobabexpeditions.com
Vodafone and Pfizer are said to be among the companies that have made use of incentive programmes offered by gorilla safari operators in Rwanda. The scenic journey up the mountains, the closeness to nature and the encounter with the kings of the jungle are a spiritual experience that will truly help build team spirit. Itineraries may include charity work for some feel-good factor.
Day 1 - Met by the guide on arrival at the airport and transfer to Kigali. Briefing on the safari. After lunch, depart for Parc National des Volcans. The journey north goes through the beautiful terraced hillsides that characterise much of Rwanda’s landscape, gradually climbing to the base of the Virunga volcanoes, sometimes with as many as five peaks visible. Stay at Volcanoes Virunga Lodge.
Day 3 - Go to the Mountain Gorillas Veterinary Project to see the work done there and attend a lecture. In the afternoon, visit the Briquette community project, which is a tree conservation project. Stay at Volcanoes Virunga Lodge.
Day 4 - Contribute to the restructuring of Mwiko School by lending your support, skills and good will in helping the community finish up the construction of this structure. Stay at Volcanoes Virunga Lodge.
Day 5 - Either visit the golden monkeys or drive to Gisenyi, visit Ros Carr’s orphanage and Lake Kivu or climb the Visoke or Muhavura volcanoes. There is also the option of a trek to Dian Fossey’s grave, visit the local school, community projects or walk to Lake Bulera. Stay at Volcanoes Virunga Lodge.
Day 6 - Leave for Kigali. Time permitting, go for a tour of the city that includes a visit to the market, a pottery project, handicraft shops and the genocide memorial. Transfer to the airport.
