A historical port and booming tourism have brought success to Xiamen, says Reggie Ho
Once known as Amoy, Xiamen is located on the south-east coast of China facing the Taiwan Strait. It was one of China’s first five special economic zones, consisting of six districts – Siming, Huli, Jimei, Haicang, Tong’an and Xiang’an. The first two are on the main island, while the others are on the mainland. It is a sub-provincial city of Fujian, and has a population of 3.6 million.
The city has a long history as a business hub. During the Song Dynasty (960-1279), it was one of the few Chinese seaports open to foreign trade. At the end of the First Opium War, in 1842, the British made Xiamen one of the five Chinese treaty ports through the Treaty of Nanking.
In 1903, Gulangyu, a 2 sq km islet southwest of the main island, was made an international settlement, and a lot of offshore economic activity ensued. Today, Gulangyu is popular with tourists for its colonial architecture and attractions such as the Piano Museum. It’s an eight-minute ferry journey from the southwestern harbourfront.
For a long time, Xiamen’s development was limited by politics because of its proximity to Taiwan (the Taiwanese-administered Kinmen Islands are 10km away). With improving cross-strait relations, the city is booming. Dell has its regional HQ here, the city’s deepwater port and mature infrastructure deemed advantageous to the company’s direct sales and build-to-order business model. Other important industries include machinery manufacturing and chemicals. Tourism is also a big revenue generator in Xiamen, which has also become a popular destination for Asian meetings and incentives.
Xiamen airport is about a 20- to 20-minute drive from the city centre. The only European airline to serve it is KLM, which launched nonstop flights from Amsterdam two years ago. Otherwise, you could take China Southern or Air France (from Europe) to Guangzhou and connect to Xiamen there, or change planes in Hong Kong. No Gulf carrier currently serves the city.
Where to stay
Indigo
IHG debuted its boutique brand in Xiamen last year in the Siming district. The interior of the 128-room property is built around motifs inspired by the city’s history, as well as colourful paintings of Chinese characters. There are four meeting rooms, a restaurant and a library. ihg.com
Kempinski
The Kempinski opened in April last year, and looks out to Yundang Lake. The grand lobby boasts a glass wine cellar and an automatic piano. The property has 460 rooms and suites, and five restaurants and bars, including German beer hall Paulaner Brauhaus. kempinski.com
Le Meridien
This 342-room property, open since 2010, has plenty of green space dotted with villas – on one side are the slopes of Xianyue Hill, while from the other you can see Xiamen Bay. It has a pool, tennis courts, and ten meeting rooms. starwoodhotels.com
Marco Polo
After a thorough renovation, this 17-year-old, 300-room property on Jianye Road looks as new as its young rivals, and has a lakefront location. The atrium design means the lobby is visible from most public areas, creating a sense of space. The Club lounge offers panoramic views, while Japanese restaurant Shogun draws discerning Xiamenites for their sushi fix. marcopolohotels.com
Westin
Opened last year, the 300-room Westin is located near Xiamen City Library and the south gate of Xianyue Park. It has excellent restaurants, including Chinese eatery Zen5es and Qba for steak and seafood. There is also a Heavenly spa. starwoodhotels.com
Time-out tips
Pedestrianised shopping street Zhongshan Lu is also great for sampling local food – follow the crowd to find the best grub. At number 22-24, Huang Zehe stall is famous for its sweet peanut soup. Across the street from number 210, you will spot the entrance to Jukou Jie, marked by a carved wood gate. There are many stalls here serving snacks such as spring rolls. Further along Jukou Jie is the entrance to a narrow lane (Jukou Heng Hang) that leads you to Jukou Ban Mian, well known for its noodles. Simply pick what you want from the fresh seafood, meat and veg laid out on the table and they will make a broth out of them with coriander. Nearby, Lian Huan serves delicious baby oyster omelettes.
Once a quiet village for the Zeng clan, Zeng Village has now become a tourist area, with quirky shops selling home decorations and collectibles. The former ancestral hall has been converted into Temple Café – it’s one of many chilled-out venues to choose from. Food vendors are everywhere and for ¥20 (£2) you can eat to your heart’s content. If you want to indulge, seafood restaurants near the waterfront, such as Jiafuyuan (tel +86 592 251 3900), offer live seafood cooked to order (meals from about ¥100/£10 per head). Across the road on the beachfront, Kingsoak Cellar (kingsoak.cn) serves Western dishes and a wide selection of wines.
From early morning until about 4pm, Gulangyu island is packed with visitors admiring the architecture, browsing museums and enjoying the beach. It has shops famous for their jerky and dried seafood, such as Huang Sheng Ji (95 Longtou Lu).
Haiwan Gongyuan (Bay Park), on the west coast of Xiamen Island, boasts a nightlife scene reminiscent of the Californian coast. The taxi driver will drop you off in front of the giant clubs at Xiti Lu, but where you really want to go is the waterfront area, where a strip of venues offer live music and outdoor seating – try JJ Bar and Grill, Me and You 2 (meandyou2.com) or Havana Beach (havanaxiamen.com).
