Features

Playtime in Prague

22 Aug 2011 by BusinessTraveller

Rose Dykins discovers how to make the most of the Czech city on a return visit.

The Cezch capital’s popularity as a tourist destination is enduring. In the past year more than four million people visited Prague, and for most it was not their first time.

“Nearly 60 per cent of tourists are returning for a second, third or fourth visit,” says a Czech Tourism spokesperson. “It’s still cheap compared with most European capitals because we don’t have the euro and everything in the city centre is in walking distance.”

Prague’s centre forms the largest UNESCO site in Europe, and the Gothic charm of the Old Town has no doubt played a large part in encouraging repeat visits. The city has also become a top stag party destination thanks to its breweries and beer culture. But beyond the romance and cheap pints, what else has it got to offer?

“People know Prague is here, but they often don’t know what there is to do,” says Hana Langmajerova, senior project manager of Kuoni Destination Management (kuoni-dmc.com), which arranges group travel in Prague. “There needs to be more promotion of the city, telling people what’s new.” She recommends trying out “the trendy restaurants [see panel overleaf], the many festivals and the walks around the back streets of both sides of the Old and Lesser Towns”. Here are some more suggestions.

Kampa Island

If you are familiar with the Old Town and have already marvelled at the Astronomical Clock and the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn (see businesstraveller.com/city-guides for more on these), cross the Charles Bridge to Kampa Island to see a different side of the city.

Separated from the lovely Mala Strana, or “Lesser Town”, by an arm of the River Vltava, it is a popular spot with locals for escaping the crowds. Walk across the stone bridges and you will feel as if you are in the countryside, despite being minutes from the centre. In good weather, the grassy spaces that line the river are full of picnics and people playing games.

The island has its own modern art gallery, Kampa Museum, which is surrounded by some of the city’s most interesting sculptures – look out for the giant bronze crawling babies by Czech sculptor David Cerny. There are also plenty of pubs – the Mlynska Kavarna (Park Kampa; tel +420 608 444 490) is a converted mill with a secluded garden, reachable by bridge.

Kampa Island is also a short walk from some of Prague’s lesser known sights, such as the psychedelic John Lennon memorial wall in Mala Strana, painted with messages of peace by fans from all over the world.

  • Kampa Museum: open 10am-6pm; entry is Kc260 (£9.40). U Sovovych Mlynu 2; museumkampa.com

Mucha Museum

Czech artist Alphonse Mucha is considered a pioneer of the art nouveau movement, despite rejecting this status himself. His ability to create design themes and replicate them meant his work lent itself to advertisements and posters during the 1890s. You will have seen copies of his signature lithograph prints before – they typically feature glamorous women in natural surroundings that morph into intricate patterns.

Prague’s understated Mucha Museum, on the edge of the Old Town, has a wide collection of the artist’s prints, many of which are in themed sets, such as The Four Seasons and his Belle Epoque pieces. A highlight are the black and white photographs Mucha took in his Parisian studio of his friends and models, which show a more personal side to the artist than the uniform style of his lithographs. A video about Mucha’s life puts his work into context and highlights the significance of art nouveau in Prague’s design culture.

Museum of Communism

Above a McDonald’s on Na Prikope street in the Old Town, the compact Museum of Communism is well hidden. It provides a clear account of the worldwide development of the movement from 1948 to 1989, and encourages reflection on how remnants of this history can be seen in the city today.

The array of busts, artworks and artefacts are displayed in a slightly disorderly fashion, but this gives the museum an intimate feel, as if you’ve stumbled upon an attic of antiques. Interesting exhibits include framed communist propaganda posters and a replica of a secret police interrogation room, which is particularly sinister. Black and white footage of Russian tanks rumbling into Prague and of the punishments doled out to those who rebelled against the KSC (the former Czech Communist party) really resonate.

Lobkowicz Palace

Located slightly below Prague Castle – the seat of the president, located at the top of Castle Hill in Mala Strana (see businesstraveller.com/city-guides) – is Lobkowicz Palace. The aristocratic Czech family has a turbulent history – their ancestors were forced to flee first during Nazi rule and again during the communist regime. They endeavoured to get back their family treasures, and these are now on display in the palace galleries.

William Lobkowicz retrieved more than 1,500 paintings and 20,000 objects, including well-loved musical instruments, the world’s third-largest collection of 16th-century Spanish court paintings, and two Canaletto oil paintings of the Thames. Browsing the galleries also helps to create a picture of the family’s passions and interests – including their penchant for pug dogs.

Daily classical concerts are held in the palace’s intimate concert hall, which features 17th-century murals on the ceiling and can be hired for events. Tours of the palace are also available.

  • Museum open 10am-6pm; entry is Kc275 (£10). Concerts 1pm; tickets from Kc390 (£14). Jirska 3; lobkowicz.cz

U fleku

One of the largest and oldest breweries in Prague, U Fleku has been making its unique dark beer in the Old Town for 500 years. This special brew is quite heavy with a huge head and slightly sweet taste. It’s only sold in U Fleku’s restaurant – which serves Czech dishes (Kc294/ £11 for two courses) – its eight rustic halls and beer garden, where waiters constantly bring you refills. During the day, the garden has a jolly atmosphere thanks to a costumed folk band with a booming tuba entertaining tourists. The buildings are Bohemian and medieval in style, with intricately carved wooden beams and murals of knights and dragons.

Groups of ten or more can have a full tour – Kc160 (£6) per person – that includes beer tasting and a souvenir drinking glass.

Visit czechtourism.com, pragueconvention.cz

WHERE TO STAY

Crowne Plaza

A 15-minute drive from the city centre and airport, this state-protected monument was originally built for Soviet Union army delegates. Tapestries and mosaics are dotted throughout the sleek hotel, including in its 16 meeting rooms. The 254 bedrooms and suites are spacious and there are two restaurants and two bars.

  • Koulova 15; tel +420 296 537 111; crowneplaza.com
  • Rooms from Kc2,048 (£75)

Four Seasons

Located on the edge of the Jewish Quarter, the Four Seasons offers beautiful views of Prague Castle and the river. Its 161 rooms feature refined décor with calm colours and fresh flowers. Allegro is the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Prague and serves exquisite food. There is a small spa, gym and six meeting rooms.

  • Veleslavinova 2a/1,098; tel +420 221 427 000; fourseasons.com
  • Rooms from Kc8,675 (£319)

Hilton

A couple of minutes’ drive from Old Town Square, the nine-floor Hilton Prague has 791 rooms, 33 sophisticated meeting spaces, a spa, executive lounge and a peaceful central atrium full of greenery. Czechouse Grill and Rotisserie offers a contemporary take on traditional Czech recipes, while top-floor bar Cloud Nine offers superb views.

  • Pobrezni 1; tel +420 224 841 111; hilton.com
  • Rooms from Kc3,600 (£130)

Augustine

Part of the Rocco Forte Collection, the Augustine is a distinctive five-star, 101-room hotel. Formed from seven original buildings, including a still-functioning 13th-century monastery, its interiors are influenced by the Czech Cubist movement. Facilities include five meeting rooms, gardens, a restaurant and two bars.

  • Letenska 12/33; tel +420 266 112 233; theaugustine.com
  • Rooms from Kc4,293 (£158)

Jalta

A Warhol portrait of Franz Kafka hangs in the four-star deluxe Jalta’s reception. Situated on Wenceslas Square, it has 94 rooms and an elegant restaurant. There are also five meeting spaces and an underground bomb shelter, from which communist agents tapped the phone lines of the bedrooms.

  • Vaclavske Namesti 45; tel +420 222 822 111; hoteljalta.com
  • Rooms from Kc2,813 (£103)

Alchymist Grand Hotel and Spa

Near to Prague Castle in Mala Strana, this boutique five-star hotel bursts with character. Expect decadent Baroque furnishings, zebra print chairs, antique four-poster beds and lashings of gold leaf. It has 47 opulent bedrooms, two conference rooms, an Indonesian spa and a restaurant.

Visit businesstraveller.com/tried-and-tested for reviews of the Crowne Plaza and the Augustine.

FOOD AND DRINK 

Mlynec

Nestled by a corner of Charles Bridge is Mlynec restaurant – grab a table by the window or on the terrace for a great view. The cuisine is sleekly presented yet stays true to the tastes and textures of Czech home cooking, such as plum dumplings with poppy seeds served with a dollop of slivovitz cream.

  • Open daily for lunch and dinner; two courses Kc803 (£29). Novotneho Lavka 9; tel +420 277 000 777; mlynec.cz

Villa Richter

This dining complex of three restaurants offers an excellent view down on to the terracotta rooftops of Mala Strana. The terraces above St Wenceslas Vineyard are perfect for a relaxing drink after visiting Prague Castle and Lobkowitcz Palace, a short walk up the hill.

  • Open daily 10am-11pm; two courses Kc458 (£17). Stare Zamecke Schody 6/251; tel +420 257 219 079; villarichter.cz 

Buddha Bar Hotel

For a funky, exotic vibe, head to Buddha Bar Prague, a five-minute walk from Old Town Square. The two-storey bar and restaurant is overlooked by a giant Buddha statue and it serves cocktails with unusual combinations of ingredients, such as the Wasabi Hurt Shoshu, which is made from wasabi, sake, lime, vodka and cane sugar.

  • Open daily 6pm to late (restaurant from 6.30pm); two courses Kc919 (£33.50). Jakubska 649/8; tel +420 221 776 400; buddha-bar-hotel.cz

Hard Rock Cafe

For generous portions of American-style food, head to the largest Hard Rock Café in Europe, just off Old Town Square. Typical of the restaurant brand, the walls are lined with authentic movie and music memorabilia, such as outfits worn by Madonna and Elvis Presley. Colourful cocktails are on offer.

  • Open daily 12pm-12am; two courses Kc558 (£20). Dum U Rotta, Male Namesti 3; tel +420 224 229 529; hardrock.com 
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