A well-tailored suit will present you as a cut above the competition. Tom Otley guides you through the process of buying bespoke
Considering how much a good suit can cost, and the great impression it can make, it’s surprising we spend so little time considering the materials and skills that go into one.
Go into the average men’s outfitter and you’ll find a selection of ready-made suits hanging by size in a variety of colours. You might spend a few minutes finding the right colour and weight of cloth, but the next day you will be wearing it. For a relatively expensive purchase, it isn’t the wisest way to spend your money.
There’s also the small matter of whether it really does fit. Ready-made clothes are designed to fit the average man. Is that how you think of yourself? And is it how you want to be thought of by others? If you really care about the materials and the fit, you’ll soon find yourself considering made-to-measure and bespoke suits. But what do these terms mean, and are they worth the extra cost?
Erlend Norby worked for years on London’s Savile Row and now has his own tailoring business, Taliare (from the Latin verb “to cut” and the origin of the word tailor), on Seymour Place in Marylebone. “Bespoke means different things to different people,” he says. “It can simply mean anything that is made for you and carries with it a suggestion of quality, but to tailors it’s a bit more specific.”
Jeremy Hackett, chief executive of Hackett, says: “Made-to-measure is more popular due to the price difference. It is a factory-made garment but it allows the customer to choose their own cloth, linings and buttons, whereas with bespoke, a pattern is cut for the client and every conceivable measurement is taken. It is completely handmade, right down to the buttonholes.”
Tim Ardron, a private tailoring consultant in the made-to-measure department of Gieves and Hawkes on Savile Row, says: “We have both options. Bespoke is when we make something from scratch. It’s quite a long process – up to 12 weeks, as it’s handcrafted for that individual, but it’s a perfect fit since we are creating a pattern specifically for the customer.
"There’s the ability to customise it so everything from the style and pocket layout to the cloth can be chosen – we have more or less 10,000 fabrics in-house.”
THE RIGHT FIT
The quicker, less expensive option is made-to-measure. “This is when the pattern already exists and we put it on the individual and look at how we can make it fit better,” Ardron explains. “The garment will still be made from scratch and personalised, and you will have the choice of material you get from bespoke, but it’s a quicker process – eight weeks rather than 12.”
Hugo Boss’s made-to-measure service begins with a selection of fabrics from a library of 250, including glen plaid, pinstripe and micro-herringbone. Buttons include mother-of-pearl, vegetable ivory and buffalo horn, and with even a single-breasted jacket there is the choice of wide or narrow lapels, button or link cuffs.
The customer is measured by a tailoring specialist, with a slip-on garment pinned to them according to their preferred fit and style. The sizings are recorded on a personal measuring sheet, which is then sent to the Hugo Boss headquarters in Metzingen, Germany.
As well as being cut “according to precise individual measurements from head-to-toe”, each is “expertly constructed from 180 individual pieces [with] lightweight fabrics”. Prices start from £1,050 for a Hugo Boss made-to-measure suit.
For those companies offering both made-to-measure and bespoke, there is a substantial price differential. As Hackett points out: “Made-to-measure is closer to off-the-peg prices. Depending on the choice of cloth, prices start at around £700. Bespoke is considerably more expensive, starting at about £3,000. It really is couture for men.”
Whichever you go for, and wherever you are in the world, a good tailor will talk to you about the choice of material. Most suits are made from wool, with many of the best varieties coming from Australia and New Zealand.
In general, there are two types: worsted, in which the fibres are untangled and straightened then spun into yarn; and woollen, which is made from “carded“ wool whereby combing allows air into the fibres. Either can be woven into anything from tweed to gabardine, and may be given a number, such as Super 100s or Super 180s. Higher numbers are more expensive but this also means the fabric is less durable as it is more delicate.
First-time buyers may think that one material is “better” than the other, but at a reputable tailors all of the wools will be of a high quality. The important thing is to explain what you want, and then be guided by the advice you are given.
TALK THE TALK
“We start with a consultation,” Norby says. “That’s where we learn about the purpose of the suit – is it for a wedding, for work, for travel? Does it have to be hard-wearing? What climate is it for? Do they want luxurious? From that, we can talk about styles and start fitting the pattern to the customer.”A tailor may have trained for up to ten years, so it is highly skilled work, hence the price premium on bespoke suits.
“Certain colours work in different climates,” Norby says. “For instance, you’ll often see a touch of brown in suits in Asia, and that’s because it works in the light there in a way that is more difficult in Europe. The same applies to materials, so for a hot and humid setting we’d chose a light weight.”
Norby points out that decisions should be accompanied by common sense: “I’ve had clients who are relocating to Dubai and want a lightweight suit but of course most of the time they will be in air conditioned offices and end up being cold.”
Ardron finds clients often come in with an idea of the specific look they want to create, which can be helpful to discuss. “Again, it would depend on how often they are going to wear the suit,” he says.
“For special occasions we can be more adventurous with materials. For hot climates, some mohair in the mix is lightweight and easy to wear, and keeps its shape a lot better than other wools – what we call a good crimp – although it can be a little harsh to the touch.”
Be warned – bespoke can be addictive. “I remember one Saturday a customer wandering in to our Sloane Street shop and wanting to buy a cardigan,” Hackett recalls. “He then requested trousers, but I was unable to fit him from stock so I suggested bespoke. Within a year he had spent a little more than £40,000.”
Of course, the amount you spend is a personal preference, but a good tailor will take into account your budget and hope to keep your custom, understanding the value of repeat business and possible recommendations to others.
WHY GO BESPOKE?
- Off-the-peg suits are made for the average-sized man. You aren’t average.
- Bespoke suits are made from higher quality materials and look better.
- Good cloths last longer. Those who are knowledgable about fashion and materials will be able to recognise the quality.
- It will be suitable for purpose, whether travelling or special occasions.
- You can buy multiple suits for different climates.
