Mythical, enigmatic, delightfully chaotic, annoyingly touristy and irresistibly mesmerising — just a few of the words that could best describe the Italian city of Venice. My arrival in Venice is unique to say the least, as I lug my bags from the arrivals hall to, well, the airport jetty. Here, I am whisked away in a Venetian wood-veneered vaporetto to my accommodation, a quick 30-minute ride from the airport. To my right, I see the magnificent, ever-so-familiar landscape of Venice in the distance. Just as I begin admiring the rooftops, cupolas and spires of the historic centre of Venice, my boat begins to veer away from it all, leaving all this behind. A couple of minutes later, after sailing past a few small islands, I finally arrive at the wooden jetty of the San Clemente Island. While Venice’s centre is certainly an architectural and cultural marvel, a lot of luxury travellers, these days, are choosing to eschew its crowded and often cramped spaces, by staying on one of the distant islands, and sailing to Venice whenever required. This is exactly what I am doing, during my 48-hour exploration of the city. San Clemente Island, as it turns out, is extremely significant in the history of this region, and I am eager to discover it.
Exploring the tourist spots
While I am quite familiar with most of the major cities in Italy, this is my first trip to Venice. Like every good tourist, I do factor in some time to explore the city’s major tourist highlights, stroll around, sip on espressos and try out some local food. After settling into my accommodation on San Clemente Island, I take a shuttle boat (which runs at regular intervals between the island and mainland Venice). It drops me off at San Marco Square, the bustling heart of Venice. The best way to explore the city’s unmistakable baroque architecture, often referred to as Venetian-style construction, is to take a private boat tour. I decide to embark on a one-hour canal cruise, on a tiny boat. My onboard host is Elisa Gavagnin, a local guide, who owns the boat. This ensures that I get a veritable insider perspective of Venice as we navigate the canals. Often caught in traffic jams in the canals, with the iconic gondolas and their jolly gondoliers, we sail past some of the historic palazzos, cathedrals and other monuments, with Gavagnin’s cheerful banter as background commentary. The boat goes through some picturesque canals and under the famous Venetian bridges like the Rialto Bridge and the Bridge of Sighs. While the city’s public water transport is also a great way to get around, for luxury travellers, a private boat tour is always a great option to get a waterside view of the city, in a curated and intimate manner.
Following this cruise, I explore the inner lanes and canals of the city on foot. Discerning travellers will find many reasons to rejoice, as they discover the local espresso bars, taverns and quaint gelato shops, where you can enjoy the local flavours of Venice. Given that Venice’s culinary scene is so buzzing, it is hard to give recommendations in a nutshell. Having said that, your best bet would be to ask the locals you interact with, for the must-visit places to dine at, the most loved local delicacies as well as the most popular places to enjoy Italian coffee.
Island Life
The next morning I wake up on the island, all set to discover this beautiful slice of Italian life. I am staying at the magnificent San Clemente Palace Kempinski, which is bang in the middle of the eponymous private island that was first inhabited in the 12th century. I start by understanding the historical importance of this sprawling complex of buildings, courtyards, gardens and lawns. At the water’s edge, there is a charming church dating back to the 12th century. The church was built by religious orders that once inhabited this island and lived there for centuries, with the San Clemente church as a main worship spot. Today, it is no longer functional, but it belongs to the hotel and has been tastefully restored. The restoration is understated and authentic, without making the historic church look too contrived. Following its time as a monastery, this complex then housed a hospital for many years. In March 2016, it finally opened as the San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice, wearing its long history on its sleeve. Today, the hotel, with its 128 rooms and 62 suites, welcomes the who’s who of the international jet set, and is possibly the most unique luxury experience you can enjoy around Venice. While the ancient building was not originally built to be a luxury hotel, its restoration today is noteworthy. The overall aesthetic is understated and the high ceilings, the endless galleries, the broad passageways and the Venetian terrazzo flooring transport you another era. No surprise, then, that this property has been flagged under the prestigious Leading Hotels of the World banner. I spend the morning in my room, which boasts sweeping views of the Venetian lagoon. While the structure of my room might date back several centuries, it is packed with modern amenities, such as a luxurious marble bathroom, a fully stocked bar, a Nespresso machine and plush linen. There are subtle references to Venice’s baroque lineage in every detail such as the drapes, the upholstery and even the artwork.
Later that afternoon, I spend some time by the swimming pool, discreetly tucked away amidst lush Mediterranean gardens. Over craft cocktails, bocconcini salads and gourmet pizzas at La Dolce Bar, I spend the afternoon living ‘La Dolce Vita’.
Later that evening, I find myself a plum spot at Al Bacaro, stunningly situated on the waterfront, with the old church for a backdrop, and the Venetian skyline in the distance. Here, sundowners and dinner are served, in a casual Mediterranean setting.
I spend the next day pottering around San Clemente Island, enjoying a picnic on one of the lawns and sipping copious amounts of coffee, while soaking up the Italian sun.
New Address for Luxury
Now that I’ve had my fill of Venice’s tourist trail as well as some time unwinding at the hotel, I hop back onto the shuttle boat to check out the city’s most popular luxury retail destination. While luxury shopping in Italy needs no introduction, travellers must head to T Fondaco Dei Tedeschi by DFS, which is a massive luxury retail space just off the Rialto Bridge. Housed in a gorgeous heritage building, the space features a chic cafe and restaurant on the ground floor, with subsequent levels featuring fashion, watches beauty, leather, accessories and a whole gamut of Italian and international upscale brands. In addition, T Fondaco Dei Tedeschi also has a private couture salon, where you can shop in complete privacy, in a plush room overlooking the canals. This is particularly useful for VIP travellers seeking a multitude of brands under one roof and wishing to go incognito while shopping.
