Chengdu, the capital of China’s southwestern Sichuan province, is making its mark on the global map for a number of reasons. The city is home to the spiciest cuisine in China, the rare giant panda and, more recently, the largest freestanding structure in the world.
Chengdu city
The recently-completed New Century Global Center contains 1.76 million sqm of indoor floor space, tipping the Burj Khalifa, which holds a mere 309,473 sqm. Chengdu’s mega-structure – which houses an artificial beach, a central business district, a Mediterranean village, 14-screen cinema, hotels, ice rink and shopping mall – is virtually an indoor city, and exemplifies Chengdu’s role as a key component of China’s relentless pursuit of both figurative and literal greatness.
In 2000, the Chinese government initiated an economic policy to develop its landlocked western provinces, and Chengdu emerged as a natural focal point. Logistically, the 2,300-year-old city has been a centre for cross-country communication and transport since the days of the Silk Road, when it contributed spices, tea and silk brocade to the earliest intercontinental trade.
This legacy remains apparent in modern Chengdu, from where 34 major Chinese cities are reachable by high-speed rail, whose network of direct global air links is growing rapidly, and where a sizeable outsourcing and communications industry is in place. Siemens, Motorola, Nokia and Ericsson are among the scores of international companies with a presence in the city. The 130 sq km Chengdu Hi-Tech Industrial Development Zone alone contains 33,237 companies, 87 of which rank in the Fortune 500.
But Chengdu’s charm has not been entirely lost in the frenzy of development. The teahouses, traditional opera theatres and ancient temples still stand their ground among the ever-expanding cityscape.
First impression
Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport
The two-terminal Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport is relatively well equipped, with one of the runways able to land an A380 (though it hasn’t yet). Last year it handled 31.59 million passengers, and upon arrival didn’t seem too crowded. A car ride to the city centre takes about 30 minutes, accounting for traffic – a factor that is unavoidable in Chengdu at most times of day.
Orientation
Navigating the city’s 2,129 sq km urban centre (its population is 7.1 million) is not the easiest of tasks, especially for an outsider. If you can decipher the metropolitan bus system’s labyrinthine network, you can get almost anywhere for RMB2 (US$0.30). There are also two subway lines currently in operation, with more under construction, costing between RMB2-4 (US$0.30-0.60) depending on distance. This is generally a faster and simpler option than the bus since you avoid the traffic, and the bus can be confusing for those who don’t speak and read Chinese.
Taking a taxi is not extortionate, but again, you are at the mercy of the traffic, and the driver, who most probably doesn’t speak English. Most of them use metres, but often attempt to haggle a fixed price. Renting a car with a driver is a popular option, but can cost RMB600-800 (US$98-130) a day. It may, however, save you a lot if you value mental stability.
Most of the major hotels are located within the innermost – and aptly named –1st Ring Road. The airport is 16 km to the southwest, and the Tianfu district, which houses both the industrial park and new indoor city, is also to the south, and is connected by the newly-built Tianfu flyover.
What to do
The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding
It has to be done. When in the giant bear’s domain it is only right to engage in the pandemonium surrounding China’s national treasure, and the Chengdu Panda Research Base is the best place to do this. It’s just under an hour’s drive from the city centre, and is beautifully maintained. Spend the morning wandering around it and viewing pandas of all shapes and sizes, mostly munching bamboo and milling around their expansive enclosures. They are fed at 9.30am, and the cooler, earlier part of the day is when they are more active.
Open 8am-5.30pm; entry RMB58 (US$9.5).1,375 Xiongmao (Panda) Avenue, Northern Suburb; www.panda.org.cn/english
The Zhao Jie Temple
There are a number of temples dotted around Chengdu city, and Zhao Jie, although not the most centrally located, is a spiritual sanctuary not to be missed. It takes about an hour to get to, but it’s worth it for the authenticity and distinct absence of tourist crowds. The centuries-old wooden structures and pillars are lined with neat shrubbery, gently pacing monks and lingering plumes of incense. Spend an afternoon soaking up the peacefulness and history of the place, and enjoying a cup of tea in the traditional teahouse.
Open 8am-6pm. 333 Zhao Qing Lu, Qing Long Chang, Chenghua district.
Heming Teahouse
Located in the city centre’s Renmin Park, and built in 1920, this is the perfect place to experience the “Old Chengdu” that is famed for its waterways, greenery and open-air tea drinking culture. In fact, it is widely recognised that the custom of drinking tea, now so deeply ingrained in Chinese lifestyle, originated in this city. The bamboo chairs and busy, chatty atmosphere will transport you to a bygone era. Well worth a visit on a relatively pollution-free day.
Open 11am-10pm.
Where to stay
Intercontinental Century City Chengdu
Sampling hot pot at the Intercontinental Chengdu
This 555-room property is very grand, with high ceilings and a design that is distinct to the city. Adjacent to the hotel, the Shunxin Old Tea House stands out for its authentic Sichuan cuisine, which is served in atmospheric surroundings. It is popular with locals due to the quality food and nightly Sichuan opera performances.
www.ihg.com
Sheraton Chengdu Lido Hotel
The most centrally located of the recommendations in this section, Starwood’s 387-room offering is ideal for those who don’t want to stray too far from their dwelling, but are still keen to take in the city sights. Many temples, museums, shopping areas and parks are located in the vicinity, and the property is literally right on the metro line.
www.starwoodhotels.com
The Ritz-Carlton Chengdu
The property opened on October 10 in the R&F Tower. It has 353 guestrooms, ranging from 50 to 323 sqm. There are four dining options: Li Xuan Chinese restaurant, Spices international all-day dining, afternoon tea venue The Lobby Lounge and The Flair, which serves Asian tapas and sushi. There’s also a spa, beauty salon, fitness centre and 25-metre indoor pool.
www.ritzcarlton.com
Shangri-La Chengdu
Idyllically located on the banks of the Jinjiang River – one of many rivers that meander through Chengdu city centre – this property resonates with the richness of Sichuan culture. The walls display the works of nine contemporary local artists – a nod to the city’s artistic legacy.
www.shangri-la.com
Where to shop
New Century Global Center
This mega structure opened in August and is a veritable one-stop shop for, well, just about everything. The shopping centre section of this indoor city has a floor space of about 300,000 sqm and includes major fashion brands plus a Lotte department store. Once you’re done shopping, visit the 14-screen IMAX Cineplex, ice skating rink, the Mediterranean-style village or the Paradise Island Ocean Park, which boasts a host of attractions: a 400-metre-long artificial beach; a seawater pool with wave machine; a pirate ship; and on the “horizon” hangs the largest indoor LED screen in the world – 150 metres long and 40 metres high – projecting images of the ocean and sun corresponding to the time of day. This will be a sure-fire hit for the landlocked locals of Chengdu, and is also bound to attract attention further afield.
www.hzdccd.com/main1.html
Jinli Street
The winding, narrow lanes and bustling promenades of this area have been rebuilt to resemble the trading and folk art streets of old West Sichuan. The traditional-style architecture remains, but the pristine condition of the restored structures ironically detracts from their authenticity. The vibe is still centred on commerce though, with tourists as the top target. Here you will find plenty of teahouses, restaurants, bars and theatrical stages as well as vendors selling handicrafts and local specialities. Try some shao kao – bite-sized, chargrilled meat and vegetables dipped in chilli powder and served on a bamboo skewer.
Where to eat
Damiao Hotpot
Gathering around a spicy Sichuan hot pot is a must in this part of the country, and Damiao Hotpot on Jinli Street is quite the hot pot hot spot. You may have to wait a while for a table, but you won’t mind once you are seated around the central pot, placed on a hot plate in the middle of the table, simmering away with a soup peppered with little red mouth-numbing chillies. Just order a variety of meat and vegetables, which arrive raw, then skewer them and stick them in the fiery liquid to boil.
Open 9.30am-10pm. Courtyard 2/3, Jinli Phase 2, No 231, Wuhouci Street; tel +86 288 559 1111.
Where to unwind
Shu Feng Ya Yun Sichuan Opera
A night at the opera in Chengdu involves sitting on rickety wooden chairs, sipping on tea poured from a pot with a metre-long spout, and guffawing at slapstick comedy sketches. On top of that, the nightly show at this opera house also features shadow puppets, rapid mask changing, acrobatics and magic.
132 Qintai Road. For tickets (from RMB200/US$33) and show times call +86 28 8611 1025.
Bookworm
Although primarily a café, the laid-back, friendly and welcoming atmosphere of this venue has lent itself to evening gatherings and cultural events, taking on more of a bar-like vibe after dinner. European and Chinese food is served, and a pint of beer costs roughly RMB40-50 (US$6.5-8). There’s often live music, and there’s a popular jazz night on Fridays. A great place to chill out, browse the extensive book collection, or share a drink, snack and banter.
Open 9am-1am. Yulie East Road 2-7, Renmin South Road 28; tel +86 288 552 0177; www.chengdubookworm.com
Chengdu city
The recently-completed New Century Global Center contains 1.76 million sqm of indoor floor space, tipping the Burj Khalifa, which holds a mere 309,473 sqm. Chengdu’s mega-structure – which houses an artificial beach, a central business district, a Mediterranean village, 14-screen cinema, hotels, ice rink and shopping mall – is virtually an indoor city, and exemplifies Chengdu’s role as a key component of China’s relentless pursuit of both figurative and literal greatness.
In 2000, the Chinese government initiated an economic policy to develop its landlocked western provinces, and Chengdu emerged as a natural focal point. Logistically, the 2,300-year-old city has been a centre for cross-country communication and transport since the days of the Silk Road, when it contributed spices, tea and silk brocade to the earliest intercontinental trade.
This legacy remains apparent in modern Chengdu, from where 34 major Chinese cities are reachable by high-speed rail, whose network of direct global air links is growing rapidly, and where a sizeable outsourcing and communications industry is in place. Siemens, Motorola, Nokia and Ericsson are among the scores of international companies with a presence in the city. The 130 sq km Chengdu Hi-Tech Industrial Development Zone alone contains 33,237 companies, 87 of which rank in the Fortune 500.
But Chengdu’s charm has not been entirely lost in the frenzy of development. The teahouses, traditional opera theatres and ancient temples still stand their ground among the ever-expanding cityscape.
First impression
Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport
The two-terminal Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport is relatively well equipped, with one of the runways able to land an A380 (though it hasn’t yet). Last year it handled 31.59 million passengers, and upon arrival didn’t seem too crowded. A car ride to the city centre takes about 30 minutes, accounting for traffic – a factor that is unavoidable in Chengdu at most times of day.
Orientation
Navigating the city’s 2,129 sq km urban centre (its population is 7.1 million) is not the easiest of tasks, especially for an outsider. If you can decipher the metropolitan bus system’s labyrinthine network, you can get almost anywhere for RMB2 (US$0.30). There are also two subway lines currently in operation, with more under construction, costing between RMB2-4 (US$0.30-0.60) depending on distance. This is generally a faster and simpler option than the bus since you avoid the traffic, and the bus can be confusing for those who don’t speak and read Chinese.
Taking a taxi is not extortionate, but again, you are at the mercy of the traffic, and the driver, who most probably doesn’t speak English. Most of them use metres, but often attempt to haggle a fixed price. Renting a car with a driver is a popular option, but can cost RMB600-800 (US$98-130) a day. It may, however, save you a lot if you value mental stability.
Most of the major hotels are located within the innermost – and aptly named –1st Ring Road. The airport is 16 km to the southwest, and the Tianfu district, which houses both the industrial park and new indoor city, is also to the south, and is connected by the newly-built Tianfu flyover.
What to do
The Chengdu Research Base of Giant Panda Breeding
It has to be done. When in the giant bear’s domain it is only right to engage in the pandemonium surrounding China’s national treasure, and the Chengdu Panda Research Base is the best place to do this. It’s just under an hour’s drive from the city centre, and is beautifully maintained. Spend the morning wandering around it and viewing pandas of all shapes and sizes, mostly munching bamboo and milling around their expansive enclosures. They are fed at 9.30am, and the cooler, earlier part of the day is when they are more active.
Open 8am-5.30pm; entry RMB58 (US$9.5).1,375 Xiongmao (Panda) Avenue, Northern Suburb; www.panda.org.cn/english
The Zhao Jie Temple
There are a number of temples dotted around Chengdu city, and Zhao Jie, although not the most centrally located, is a spiritual sanctuary not to be missed. It takes about an hour to get to, but it’s worth it for the authenticity and distinct absence of tourist crowds. The centuries-old wooden structures and pillars are lined with neat shrubbery, gently pacing monks and lingering plumes of incense. Spend an afternoon soaking up the peacefulness and history of the place, and enjoying a cup of tea in the traditional teahouse.
Open 8am-6pm. 333 Zhao Qing Lu, Qing Long Chang, Chenghua district.
Heming Teahouse
Located in the city centre’s Renmin Park, and built in 1920, this is the perfect place to experience the “Old Chengdu” that is famed for its waterways, greenery and open-air tea drinking culture. In fact, it is widely recognised that the custom of drinking tea, now so deeply ingrained in Chinese lifestyle, originated in this city. The bamboo chairs and busy, chatty atmosphere will transport you to a bygone era. Well worth a visit on a relatively pollution-free day.
Open 11am-10pm.
Where to stay
Intercontinental Century City Chengdu
Sampling hot pot at the Intercontinental Chengdu
This 555-room property is very grand, with high ceilings and a design that is distinct to the city. Adjacent to the hotel, the Shunxin Old Tea House stands out for its authentic Sichuan cuisine, which is served in atmospheric surroundings. It is popular with locals due to the quality food and nightly Sichuan opera performances.
www.ihg.com
Sheraton Chengdu Lido Hotel
The most centrally located of the recommendations in this section, Starwood’s 387-room offering is ideal for those who don’t want to stray too far from their dwelling, but are still keen to take in the city sights. Many temples, museums, shopping areas and parks are located in the vicinity, and the property is literally right on the metro line.
www.starwoodhotels.com
The Ritz-Carlton Chengdu
The property opened on October 10 in the R&F Tower. It has 353 guestrooms, ranging from 50 to 323 sqm. There are four dining options: Li Xuan Chinese restaurant, Spices international all-day dining, afternoon tea venue The Lobby Lounge and The Flair, which serves Asian tapas and sushi. There’s also a spa, beauty salon, fitness centre and 25-metre indoor pool.
www.ritzcarlton.com
Shangri-La Chengdu
Idyllically located on the banks of the Jinjiang River – one of many rivers that meander through Chengdu city centre – this property resonates with the richness of Sichuan culture. The walls display the works of nine contemporary local artists – a nod to the city’s artistic legacy.
www.shangri-la.com
Where to shop
New Century Global Center
This mega structure opened in August and is a veritable one-stop shop for, well, just about everything. The shopping centre section of this indoor city has a floor space of about 300,000 sqm and includes major fashion brands plus a Lotte department store. Once you’re done shopping, visit the 14-screen IMAX Cineplex, ice skating rink, the Mediterranean-style village or the Paradise Island Ocean Park, which boasts a host of attractions: a 400-metre-long artificial beach; a seawater pool with wave machine; a pirate ship; and on the “horizon” hangs the largest indoor LED screen in the world – 150 metres long and 40 metres high – projecting images of the ocean and sun corresponding to the time of day. This will be a sure-fire hit for the landlocked locals of Chengdu, and is also bound to attract attention further afield.
www.hzdccd.com/main1.html
Jinli Street
The winding, narrow lanes and bustling promenades of this area have been rebuilt to resemble the trading and folk art streets of old West Sichuan. The traditional-style architecture remains, but the pristine condition of the restored structures ironically detracts from their authenticity. The vibe is still centred on commerce though, with tourists as the top target. Here you will find plenty of teahouses, restaurants, bars and theatrical stages as well as vendors selling handicrafts and local specialities. Try some shao kao – bite-sized, chargrilled meat and vegetables dipped in chilli powder and served on a bamboo skewer.
Where to eat
Damiao Hotpot
Gathering around a spicy Sichuan hot pot is a must in this part of the country, and Damiao Hotpot on Jinli Street is quite the hot pot hot spot. You may have to wait a while for a table, but you won’t mind once you are seated around the central pot, placed on a hot plate in the middle of the table, simmering away with a soup peppered with little red mouth-numbing chillies. Just order a variety of meat and vegetables, which arrive raw, then skewer them and stick them in the fiery liquid to boil.
Open 9.30am-10pm. Courtyard 2/3, Jinli Phase 2, No 231, Wuhouci Street; tel +86 288 559 1111.
Where to unwind
Shu Feng Ya Yun Sichuan Opera
A night at the opera in Chengdu involves sitting on rickety wooden chairs, sipping on tea poured from a pot with a metre-long spout, and guffawing at slapstick comedy sketches. On top of that, the nightly show at this opera house also features shadow puppets, rapid mask changing, acrobatics and magic.
132 Qintai Road. For tickets (from RMB200/US$33) and show times call +86 28 8611 1025.
Bookworm
Although primarily a café, the laid-back, friendly and welcoming atmosphere of this venue has lent itself to evening gatherings and cultural events, taking on more of a bar-like vibe after dinner. European and Chinese food is served, and a pint of beer costs roughly RMB40-50 (US$6.5-8). There’s often live music, and there’s a popular jazz night on Fridays. A great place to chill out, browse the extensive book collection, or share a drink, snack and banter.
Open 9am-1am. Yulie East Road 2-7, Renmin South Road 28; tel +86 288 552 0177; www.chengdubookworm.com 
