Born in Neuchâtel, Switzerland, A.-Louis Breguet, set up his watchmaking business in 51 Quai de l’Horloge, Paris after studying the art of watchmaking for ten years under influential watchmakers Jean-Antoine Lépine and Ferdinand Berthoud.
Dating back to the 18th century, the incomparable ‘Depuis 1775’ tagline of Breguet watches prides itself on a rich history. Inventions conceived in that period have been infused into the institution of Breguet, and find their presence across contemporary models of the brand.
One of the most ambitious inventions of its time, the perpétuelle watch developed by A.-Louis Breguet in 1780 could wind itself without any external force. It is regarded as one of the first major triumphs of his illustrious career.
Perhaps considered as one of the most pathbreaking inventions in horology, the tourbillon, was developed in 1795 and patented in 1801 by A.-L. Breguet. The founder realised that gravitational pull can severely affect the precision of time displayed by a watch. To avoid the variation of time depending on the position of the watch, he placed the balance and spring, the level and the escape- wheel (the parts most sensitive to gravity) inside a mobile carriage. Stuck in a certain position, these parts rotate at a slow speed and finish one rotation each minute, thus negating the effect of gravity. In simple words, the timepieces “maintain the same accuracy, whatever the vertical or inclined position of the watch”.
A.-L. Breguet departed in 1823, but his successors continue to inculcate this mechanism in the brand’s contemporary timepieces. Models of Breguet that boast of the tourbillon movement include Tradition 7087, Tradition 7047, Tourbillon Extra-Plat 5377 and Classique complications 3797.
It’s safe to say, the tourbillon is considered to be the epitome of horology. Continuing its legacy of groundbreaking watchmaking, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 by Breguet was launched last year. The timepiece saw the brand take on an extra-thin, slick appearance that raised the standards of watchmaking.
Breguet opted for an extra-thin three-millimetre thick skeleton design for its tourbillon movement. The timepiece features Breguet’s 581 calibre with 18K gold that has already made headway in its previous models — 5377 and 5367. Raising the bar higher, the brand has removed almost 50 per cent of the material from this movement, without compromising on the build. Engraving, engine-turning, and anglage further add brilliance to this watch.
The tourbillon movement saw a complete redesign in the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395.
Its titanium carriage engages directly with the wheel train, not via the intermediary of a pinion at its base. The silicon escapement is given a distinct angled shape, in order to save on space.
Weighing no more than 0.290 grams in total, the carriage is ultra-light-weight and is equipped with a power reserve of 80 hours thanks to a high-energy barrel beating at four hertz — a particularly high frequency for a tourbillon.
Featuring the hand-crafted engine-turning, or guilloché design, the watch also features Clous de Paris hobnailing that is created using a diamond-tipped guilloché tool.
Water-resistant to 30 metres, the Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Squelette 5395 is available with a grey movement in a rose gold case, or with a rose movement in a platinum case. breguet.com
