Jenny Southan explores the gorges and trails of Taiwan’s aboriginal wilderness.
Emerging from a long, dark tunnel that cuts through the rock of the Chingshui Cliffs in Eastern Taiwan, the Suhua Highway reveals steep mountainsides thick with vegetation and, down below, the brilliant turquoise of the Pacific Ocean.
Until the 1980s, when the road between Su-ao and Taroko was widened to allow two-way traffic, the stretch was one of the most dangerous in the world because of the sheer drops and threat of landslides. That said, it can still be hazardous for lorry drivers, who will end up wedged beneath overhanging rock if they calculate the height of their vehicle incorrectly.
The journey to Taroko National Park – which, at 92,000 hectares, is more of a wilderness than anything – takes about four and a half hours by car from Taipei. You can fly from the capital to nearby Hualien airport in 40 minutes but if you go across land, you can take in the dramatic scenery and stop for a bite to eat – there is some fantastic cuisine to enjoy in this part of the world. I stop at Dageeli restaurant (tel +886 3862 1033) and eat in the rain beneath the trees (Taiwan has a subtropical climate – hot and sticky in the summer with downpours throughout the year).
The eatery is run by Taiwanese aborigines and there is no menu, so once you have let them know of any dietary requirements they will present you with an al fresco feast. This may include young papaya, pink roselle flowers in syrup, bitter gourd stuffed with fish paste, glutenous rice in banana leaves, and ferns sprinkled with dried baby fish – all perfect with a nice cup of green tea.
Lunch over, and a short drive later, I come to the Bridge of 100 Lions, a vibrant red arc studded with white stone statues that spans the Shakadang stream. I descend steep steps to one of the park’s many hiking trails and trek for several kilometres alongside hand-carved marble rockfaces, with sapphire blue pools beneath me.
The climate isn’t always ideal for trekking – the Liwu River rises so high during monsoons that it floods the roads – so be aware when planning a trip (trail closures are listed on taroko.gov.tw). Still, retreating afterwards to the Silks Palace hotel (taroko.silksplace.com.tw), nestled in the heart of Taroko Gorge, will be a luxurious and calming reward whatever the weather.
After several hours of engagement with nature, I embrace check-in at this Zen-like property with open arms, stripping off boots and mac as soon as I get to my room and running a bath. Silks Palace offers elegant rooms (from NT$ 4,069/£87 in July) with river or mountain views, plus a spa, pool and a gourmet restaurant serving authentic Chinese cuisine. It can also arrange guided tours of nearby trails, as well as day trips to Houhan Mountain (NT$ 1,400/£30).
The next morning, I meet my guide and head down the snaking road to the Tunnel of Nine Turns, which was hollowed out in the mid-1990s so visitors could pass through the side of the vertiginous cliff and view the rushing water far below. Since relations have improved between mainland China and Taiwan, the island has seen an increase in tourists and the gorge is a big draw, so expect to compete for photo opportunities with large groups of Chinese people.
In search of something a little more spiritual, I seek out the Eternal Spring Shrine, a short drive downriver – while the tours usually make a quick stop here, more intrepid explorers can make it the starting point for a mountain hike that promises a magnificent vista. The paths are well constructed but arachnophobes beware – a few glances at the exotic foliage all around reveal huge webs with poisonous-looking spiders at their centres.
Arriving at the top after a good 40 minutes negotiating hairpin bends and a lot of steps, my reward is a virtual bird’s-eye view of Taiwan’s cloud-clad peaks, and a small shrine of red lacquer, green, white and blue. It couldn’t be further from the brash neon of Taipei, and when I find a solitary bell inside the monument, I pull the rope and ring it, listening to it echo through the jungle valley.
