Dive after dive, Wolfgang Krueger was rewarded with incredible sightings in the pristine depths of far-flung Rangiroa
Last August, when the world’s eyes were turned to the Beijing Olympics, I was being dazzled by the equally dramatic spectacle of the
waters around the Solomon Islands in the Pacific.
But it was on dry land, in between dives, when I heard tales from my fellow divers about another even more stunning location – it was a rhapsody for Rangiroa.
Always in search of my next undersea adventure, I jotted the name down in my travel diary.
Months later, I found myself on a plane, ready to embark on the 12-hour flight from Tokyo, across the vast Pacific Ocean, to Papeete, the capital of Tahiti.
Rangiroa means “vast sky” in Tuamotuan, a Tahitic language spoken in the Tuamotu Islands. Part of French Polynesia, this is the largest chain of atolls in the world, spanning the size of Western Europe.
Within this archipelago lies Rangiroa, the biggest island. Just under an hour by light plane from Papeete, the main island is only a long narrow stretch barely wide enough for a small airfield.
While it is common in other dive destinations around the world to have multiple dive sites offering a range of marine flora and fauna, Rangiroa really only has one dive spot to speak of, where nearly all activity takes place. And here is where it begins to get special. The lagoon, spanning about 1,600sqkm with its own horizon, only has two passes which create strong currents in the incoming and outgoing tide. Almost all dives are conducted at the Tiputa Pass on the northwest portion of Rangiroa.
My first dive with a group of other divers took place just an hour after I had arrived. I couldn’t help but feel a tingle run up and down my spine as I was about to learn for myself why this spot ranked so highly in the global diving community. Shortly after our entry into very choppy and rough, albeit warm waters (which still makes me wonder why this ocean was given the name from the Latin Mare Pacificum – “peaceful sea”), we caught up with a group of dolphins who interacted with us so naturally as if we were part of their pod. A rare experience indeed.
I signed up with a well-known dive operator called “The Six Passengers”, a team of French gentlemen who clearly enjoy and know what they are doing.
The Tiputa pass offers great drift dives during incoming tides, but the strong currents can be somewhat daunting for neophytes.
With Rangiroa said to have one of the largest population of grey reef sharks in the world, it’s not unusual to witness the “wall of sharks” phenomenon where hundreds of them appear motionless or seem to glide gently by.
On the back up to shallower depths through incredibly blue water that allows visibilities of up to 61m, other marine creatures pass in a graceful parade. During my week in the atoll, I returned to the same site 17 times, and each visit was unforgettable. Nature has its own way of deciding what it wants to show off and when, but we were always rewarded with unvelievable encounters, ranging from the aforementioned shark tableau to Manta Rays feasting placidly on plankton to a variety of “must-stop- to-take-a-picture” moments.
So engaging were these dives that it was to easy to forget one had to surface. This happened to me one time, and when I finally went up, I discovered there was virtually no oxygen left in my tank!
Early one morning, five of us – all certified dive masters or instructors with plenty of experience – descended to a depth of 45m. As we approached our mark, a phalanx of sharks appeared in front of us, but something seemed amiss. They were acting rather agitated.
It was obvious these formidable fellows were in an attack mode. And just as our alert and knowledgeable guide Pitou drew us into the thick of the activity, the shadow of a large predator loomed – a Blue Marlin.
I stared at this formidable fish forgetting all about the camera in my hand. This scene is recorded in my memory, but sadly not on the memory card.
The excitement was not to end there. High on adrenaline and wildly gesticulating to one another as if we had just won the jackpot, we proceeded to safer depths only to run smack into a school of thousands of small fish rushing past us like a swarm of locusts. These chaps had the fear of God in their eyes. They were clearly fleeing from something bigger, meaner and faster.
The presence of a group of divers in the midst of them made them panic even more. Soon enough, three Giant Trevally, fast and mean looking, materialised to make short work of the poor fellows. This was survival of the fittest at its most basic.
Rangiroa lures not just intrepid divers but starry-eyed honeymooners as well, although accommodation hardly compares with the seductive options offered by its counterparts in Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines and the Maldives.
Wanting to make the most of my short visit, I stayed at the Kia Ora, located near the dive shop, which was my main concern.
For non-divers, activities in Rangiroa are limited to lounging on the beach and visiting pearl farms that breed oysters yielding black pearls. Also, not many may people know it, but this far-flung atoll has become a producer of red, white and rosé table wines.
It’s a long journey to reach what seems to be the end of the world. But Rangiroa’s pristine waters and fantastic marine life reward the intrepid traveller many times over.
• Hotel Kia Ora beach bungalows start from US$385 a night.
• Dive operator The Six Passengers charges US$85 per dive.
Last August, when the world’s eyes were turned to the Beijing Olympics, I was being dazzled by the equally dramatic spectacle of the
waters around the Solomon Islands in the Pacific.
But it was on dry land, in between dives, when I heard tales from my fellow divers about another even more stunning location – it was a rhapsody for Rangiroa.
Always in search of my next undersea adventure, I jotted the name down in my travel diary.
Months later, I found myself on a plane, ready to embark on the 12-hour flight from Tokyo, across the vast Pacific Ocean, to Papeete, the capital of Tahiti.
Rangiroa means “vast sky” in Tuamotuan, a Tahitic language spoken in the Tuamotu Islands. Part of French Polynesia, this is the largest chain of atolls in the world, spanning the size of Western Europe.
Within this archipelago lies Rangiroa, the biggest island. Just under an hour by light plane from Papeete, the main island is only a long narrow stretch barely wide enough for a small airfield.
While it is common in other dive destinations around the world to have multiple dive sites offering a range of marine flora and fauna, Rangiroa really only has one dive spot to speak of, where nearly all activity takes place. And here is where it begins to get special. The lagoon, spanning about 1,600sqkm with its own horizon, only has two passes which create strong currents in the incoming and outgoing tide. Almost all dives are conducted at the Tiputa Pass on the northwest portion of Rangiroa.My first dive with a group of other divers took place just an hour after I had arrived. I couldn’t help but feel a tingle run up and down my spine as I was about to learn for myself why this spot ranked so highly in the global diving community. Shortly after our entry into very choppy and rough, albeit warm waters (which still makes me wonder why this ocean was given the name from the Latin Mare Pacificum – “peaceful sea”), we caught up with a group of dolphins who interacted with us so naturally as if we were part of their pod. A rare experience indeed.
I signed up with a well-known dive operator called “The Six Passengers”, a team of French gentlemen who clearly enjoy and know what they are doing.
The Tiputa pass offers great drift dives during incoming tides, but the strong currents can be somewhat daunting for neophytes.
With Rangiroa said to have one of the largest population of grey reef sharks in the world, it’s not unusual to witness the “wall of sharks” phenomenon where hundreds of them appear motionless or seem to glide gently by.
On the back up to shallower depths through incredibly blue water that allows visibilities of up to 61m, other marine creatures pass in a graceful parade. During my week in the atoll, I returned to the same site 17 times, and each visit was unforgettable. Nature has its own way of deciding what it wants to show off and when, but we were always rewarded with unvelievable encounters, ranging from the aforementioned shark tableau to Manta Rays feasting placidly on plankton to a variety of “must-stop- to-take-a-picture” moments.So engaging were these dives that it was to easy to forget one had to surface. This happened to me one time, and when I finally went up, I discovered there was virtually no oxygen left in my tank!
Early one morning, five of us – all certified dive masters or instructors with plenty of experience – descended to a depth of 45m. As we approached our mark, a phalanx of sharks appeared in front of us, but something seemed amiss. They were acting rather agitated.
It was obvious these formidable fellows were in an attack mode. And just as our alert and knowledgeable guide Pitou drew us into the thick of the activity, the shadow of a large predator loomed – a Blue Marlin.
I stared at this formidable fish forgetting all about the camera in my hand. This scene is recorded in my memory, but sadly not on the memory card.
The excitement was not to end there. High on adrenaline and wildly gesticulating to one another as if we had just won the jackpot, we proceeded to safer depths only to run smack into a school of thousands of small fish rushing past us like a swarm of locusts. These chaps had the fear of God in their eyes. They were clearly fleeing from something bigger, meaner and faster.
The presence of a group of divers in the midst of them made them panic even more. Soon enough, three Giant Trevally, fast and mean looking, materialised to make short work of the poor fellows. This was survival of the fittest at its most basic.
Rangiroa lures not just intrepid divers but starry-eyed honeymooners as well, although accommodation hardly compares with the seductive options offered by its counterparts in Thailand, Indonesia, the Philippines and the Maldives.Wanting to make the most of my short visit, I stayed at the Kia Ora, located near the dive shop, which was my main concern.
For non-divers, activities in Rangiroa are limited to lounging on the beach and visiting pearl farms that breed oysters yielding black pearls. Also, not many may people know it, but this far-flung atoll has become a producer of red, white and rosé table wines.
It’s a long journey to reach what seems to be the end of the world. But Rangiroa’s pristine waters and fantastic marine life reward the intrepid traveller many times over.
FACT FILE
• Air Tahiti Nui flies thrice weekly non-stop between Tokyo and Papeete, Tahiti from US$2,500 return. It also flies to Paris, Sydney, Auckland, Los Angeles and New York. Other airlines that serve the islands are Qantas and Air New Zealand.• Hotel Kia Ora beach bungalows start from US$385 a night.
• Dive operator The Six Passengers charges US$85 per dive.
