Features

Philippines: Bicol Rediscovered

31 Dec 2009 by intern22
In an archipelago brimming with nature, culture and history, Bicol has found a way to catch attention as a unique Philippine destination, Gigi Onag discovers Bicol in the southern stretch of Luzon island in the Philippines had, for as long as anyone can remember, one major claim to fame. It was the home of Mount Mayon, described by many guidebooks as the world’s only volcano with a near-perfect cone. (Editor’s note: At press time, it was also living up to another title as the country’s most active volcano, having erupted more than 50 times since 1616, by putting on another terrifying show of lava works.)  
Cagsawa Ruins
The place is experiencing a renaissance in the few years particularly in domestic tourism, as expensive airfares make popular destinations like Cebu, Boracay and Palawan out of reach for most Filipino travellers. Bicol belongs to Region V in the Philippine geographical grouping, which consist of 14 regions from north to south. It covers six provinces – the landlocked provinces of Albay, Camarines Sur, Camarines Norte and Sorsogon as well as the two island provinces of Masbate and Catanduanes. From January to September last year, the Philippine Department of Tourism (DOT) logged more than 1.6 million visitors (this number does not include Albay) arriving in the region. “Remarkable, when we were not even on the vacation list of most Filipinos a few years ago,” notes Maria O Ravanilla, DOT regional director of Region V. Still, Bicol is a well-kept secret even to a majority of the 70-million population in this nation of more than 7,100 islands.

ON WATER

Bicol’s newfound sheen is largely due to the emergence of Camarines Sur – now fashionably called “Camsur” – as a watersports haven. The six-hectare Camsur Watersports Complex (CWC) inside the Provincial Capitol Compound in the town of Pili has a six-point cable ski system around a man-made lake conducive for wakeboarding, water skiing and knee boarding.

Misibis Bay

Offering top-of-the-line facilities that include a pool, clubhouse, restaurant, grandstand and beach volleyball court as well as a Wi-Fi hotspot, CWC has been attracting the young and the young-at-heart with a passion for high-impact sports. Of late, the adventurous from across Asia-Pacific have found their way to CWC to match skills in dexterity with their local counterparts. The complex has also been recently tapped to host international wakeboarding events. Beginners should not think there is no place for them. Instructors are on hand to guide neophytes in the proper techniques of staying on the board and keeping their balance while being pulled by the cable around the lake. The speed of the cable can be adjusted based on the rider’s degree of expertise. And if he falls into the water, he can easily pick himself up and wade back to dry land. Visitors have the option to enjoy the thrill at nighttime as the lake is fitted with powerful spotlights. And after a couple of rounds, they can enjoy a soothing massage in semi-open cabanas to soothe sore muscles.

IN THE AIR

Taking its cue from Camsur, the province of Albay is setting up sports-based infrastructure and adding new elements to traditional activities. “We took a group of mayors from Bicol on familiarisation trips to other top destinations around Southeast Asia like Phuket to let them see how similar places with a tropical setting are doing it,” says Ravanilla. “When they come back, they are more ready to enhance their town’s natural attractions and introduce new ones with the help of the private sector.” For visitors to Legazpi City, Albay’s capital, adrenaline-pumping adventure complements the viewing of Mount Mayon. Imagine taking an early morning helicopter ride, ascending to 1,000ft, to see the volcano from a rare angle. The 40-minute aerial tour takes you around the 2,463m-high mountain.

ON LAND

Zipline

Back on land, drive up Ligñon Hill, and before sampling a traditional Filipino breakfast, try the zipline, the closest thing to flying you will ever get. A zipline is a pulley suspended on a cable that is mounted on an incline. The stainless steel cable can carry up to two tonnes, which according to the operator, makes it pretty safe. A trek downhill through a mesh of wild vegetation, rugged terrain and two rivers is not for the faint-hearted, so the tour guide normally advises those who have health issues to take the coach back to the valley. The guided trek is the recommended route for reaching Bogtong, the starting point for the lava vein tour onboard an ATV (all-terrain vehicles).

Lava vein tour

Visitors can drive themselves (or use a driver) on an uneven path where lava used to flow, following the trail of black soil to the foot of Mount Mayon. The local government of Albay has about 20 ATVs specifically purchased for this experience. If you haven’t slaked your taste for an adrenaline rush, climb 200m up the mountain for a higher and longer zipline that ends at the base of Ligñon Hill.

OTHER ATTRACTIONS

The introduction of modern man-made attractions is also re-igniting interest in Bicol’s historic churches, age-old festivals and local handicrafts, as well as its chilli-based cuisine. Most of all, it has sparked a growing curiosity about the other unique attractions in the region. In Camsur, the deer farm situated 459m above sea level on Mount Isarog at Sta Cruz Ocampo is unique for stocking different deer species imported from Australia. The province also boasts Caramoan Islands, deemed as the next Boracay and the “last frontier of the Luzon peninsula”. In Albay, the Cagsawa church ruins in Daraga still fascinates. The waterfalls in Malinao and Malilipot set in lush vegetation reminds one of the Garden of Eden. Beachcombers will certainly marvel at the black sand beaches along the eastern coasts of Bacacay, Sto Domingo and Tiwi and the white sands of Misibis Bay across the Sula Channel enchanting.

Butanding

Either Camsur or Albay serves as an ideal base to explore the rest of the region. Camarines Norte is known for its diver-friendly waters and the Mercedes Island Group for island hopping. Sorsogon is famous for the whale-shark (Butanding) sightings off the coast of Donsol and then, there is the Bulusan Mountain Lake and National Park. Catanduanes with its crashing Pacific swells makes it a surfer’s dream location. The islands of Masbate are situated right in the heart of the Philippines and feature rich marine life. It has underground rivers, unexplored caves and a verdant landscape. The province is famous for cattle-raising and celebrates its very own annual Rodeo Masbateno in April. In Bicol, travellers do not have to venture deep into the Philippines to find its abundant natural treasures. And soon, it will even be easier to explore the region once the Daraga International Airport is completed in 2012 and the old train line – Bicol Express – that used to connect the region to Manila is rehabilitated.

FAST FACTS

GETTING THERE Overland transportation on provincial buses or privately chartered vehicles is an eight- to 10-hour option only for those with time to kill. Flying is still the best and fastest way to the Bicol region, with Philippine Airlines, Cebu Pacific Air and Zest Air flying regularly to the destination. Visitors have a choice of three main gateways: the main hub in Legazpi, Albay; Pili Domestic Airport in Naga, Camarines Sur; and Catanduanes Domestic Airport in Virac, Catanduanes. ACCOMMODATION There are plenty of hotels and even residences that offer homestays. As an emerging destination, the infrastructure needs to catch up to meet the needs of discriminating guests used to deluxe properties, amenities and services. In recent years, a few properties have sprung up to cater to these expectations. Hotel Venezia, a sister property of Misibis Bay Raintree (see Resort Check), has 40 guestrooms, including Standard Rooms, Junior Suites and One-Bedroom Suites. The province of Camarines Sur has several new offerings to cater to the growing influx of visitors to the popular Camsur Watersports Complex. Villa Del Rey Hotel has different types of standalone units: 100 wood cabins, 50 cabanas, 23 trailers, 12 villas and 29 tikka huts. Mansion Suites has five Executive Suites, five Deluxe Suites, two Family Suites and three Presidential Suites. PLANNING THE TRIP It is best to have a detailed itinerary with all inland transportation and other logistics sorted out well in advance of your trip. You can ask the help of the hotel where you are staying or you can work with tour operators such as Islands Vacation Bliss.
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