Rose Dykins suggests ways to explore the natural, cultural and fun-loving sides of the UAE capital
Noukhada mangrove kayaking tour
Abu Dhabi’s natural beauty isn’t immediately obvious, but it is there, away from the skyscrapers and shopping malls. Paddling serenely with a kayak though its Eastern Mangrove lagoon, the alien roots of its avicennia marina mangrove trees dip into the saltwater either side of you, and you may spot wildlife you may not have expected to see during your time in the Middle Eastern metropolis.
Noukhada Adventure Company gives kayak tours that last for up to two hours (Dhs 150/£27) per person – guides teach you how to paddle correctly, provide you with a life jacket and point out all the sights and science behind the mangrove ecosystem as you go. I was assigned the company’s British owner and managing partner, Mark Freeman, and his obedient dog Spencer, who sat on the helm of his master’s kayak throughout the tour, jumping off occasionally to chase shoals of tiny fish that wriggled below the water’s surface.
During my tour, I witnessed a flamingo family take flight, their pink forms rippling in the morning heat, as well as hundreds of thousands of dark purple climber crabs – it was so peaceful, I could actually hear the tinkling of their tiny legs as they scuttled around the dusty banks. The crabs burrow into the ground to escape the heat, which allows water and oxygen to enter the soil, providing nourishment for the mangroves.
The trees are quite tough – able to survive on saltwater and in temperatures of up to 48°C – but there are threats to both the balance of their ecosystem and their numbers owing to land development and dredging. Noukhada plays a big part in raising awareness of these issues by giving visitors a snapshot of the abundant wildlife that the mangrove lagoons are home to, and also by working on a project with Abu Dhabi’s Masdar Institute, which is exploring the value of such coastal wetland plants and how they are a national asset. The company also offers “eco tours” (Dhs 220/£39) in which guides go into much greater detail about the science behind the mangroves.
Saadiyat public beach
Abu Dhabi’s white, sandy coastline has several sections operated by Bake, a lifestyle company that took over a 400-metre stretch of the 9km Saadiyat public beach in March. Located alongside the Saadiyat Golf Course, with the main entrance next to the Park Hyatt hotel, the area remains unspoilt, lacking the intrusive bars, vendors and crowds you often get with over-developed seaside strips.
Its immaculate ivory sand sprouts tufts of desert greenery and the warm, turquoise sea is great for swimming. The pristine environment also entices turtles to nest – 650 eggs have hatched on the shore since 2010.
The changing rooms are nothing fancy but have showers, decent toilets and lockers. Orange sun loungers with parasols and towels are for hire, and there’s a small shop where you can buy bottles of beer, soft drinks and crisps. Stand-up paddle boarding and kayaking lessons take place from 8am to 6pm every Friday and Saturday. Bake’s Saadiyat beach is open daily 8am-8pm. Sun loungers are Dhs 50 (£9) on weekdays and Dhs 75 (£13) on weekends; locker rental is Dhs 15 (£2.70); towels are Dhs 10 (£1.80).
For a more indulgent experience, Monte Carlo beach club – the world’s first outside of Monaco – is located on the eastern tip of Saadiyat beach. Day passes start at Dhs 250 (£44) on weekdays and Dhs 450 (£80) at weekends. It also has two restaurants, a bar, a spa, a gym and a 650 sqm pool lined with cabanas.
bakeuae.com, montecarlobeachclub.ae
Manarat Al Saadiyat
Translated as “place of enlightenment”, the Manarat Al Saadiyat visitor centre opened in 2010 to satisfy those eagerly anticipating Abu Dhabi’s imminent cultural boom – with the Louvre, Guggenheim and Zayed National museum all opening on Saadiyat Island over the next four years. Located among the sites where these structures will be built, the venue displays a number of exhibits that have been acquired for the museums.
During my visit, the “Birth of a Museum” exhibition displayed 130 artworks that will become part of the Louvre’s permanent collection, as well as a mesmerising video installation about Jean Nouvel’s design for the building. Rays from the sun will move through the mashrabiya lattice-work roof of the white, mushroom-like structure, casting ever-changing shadows on the floor and pools of water below, to create constant movement as they gradually shift throughout each day. “A microclimate is created [through] the interplay of light and geometry,” says Nouvel. It’s “a structure of shade, pathways and discovery”.
The “Saadiyat Story” is a permanent exhibition – plans for the island are mapped out in engaging, interactive ways, and it’s fascinating to see the choices that are possible thanks to Abu Dhabi’s enormous wealth, and the importance that the nation places on keeping Sheikh Zayed’s vision for a sustainable future alive.
Next month, there will also be an exhibition showcasing the work of Emirati artists, while Abu Dhabi Art will take place here on November 20 to 23 – an international contemporary art festival, now in its fifth year, with some 50 galleries displaying artworks. Last year, pieces by Pablo Picasso, Anish Kapoor, Richard Artschwager and Marina Abramovic were featured. Open daily 10am-8pm; entry is free.
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque
It’s not often that you come across a building that’s only six years old, yet possesses the traditional grandeur and supreme beauty of the Taj Mahal – give or take a couple of Emirati hotels. But even these don’t compare with the relentless decadence of this homage to Abu Dhabi’s late leader, Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan.
Designers from around the world have contributed to various parts of the monumental white marble landmark – its courtyard and entrance contain coloured inlaid patterns by British designer Kevin Dean, for example, themed around his imagining of what paradise looks like; a lush jungle of flowers and flowing creepers.
The 12-tonne German chandeliers inside are encrusted with millions of Austrian Swarovski crystals, while the ceiling they hang from is inscribed with phrases from the Koran in calligraphy. The immaculately white Qibla wall – indicating the direction of Mecca, where Muslims face to pray – is adorned with 99 flower shapes, each inscribed with a name of Allah, though the hundredth flower is left blank, as Muslims believe that his final attribute will be revealed on judgment day.
More than 1,000 Iranian women spent a year weaving the giant carpet, which is said to represent Sheikh Zayed’s achievements – the beige centre with a green border signifies how he transformed the desert into a prospering nation. Upon my visit, toddlers were freely tumbling around on it, reflecting the relaxed, open atmosphere of the mosque (note that women must borrow a black abaya and hijab though). Open 9am-10pm daily except Fridays (4.30pm-10pm); entry is free. Complimentary group tours take place at 9am, 10am and 5pm every day except Friday.
Yas Marina Circuit
Abu Dhabi’s Formula One track epitomises the city’s go-getting, glamorous side – the venue for the Etihad Airways Grand Prix (which takes place November 1-3 this year) is flanked by a speedboat-lined harbour and the curvy glass-fronted Viceroy hotel. The pistol-shaped circuit was opened in 2009 and is located on Yas Island, a 25-minute drive from the city centre.
It’s not just about being a spectator, though, as there are myriad driving experiences for motor-heads to choose from. For example, speed freaks can get behind the wheel of a Chevrolet Camaro and gun it down a 400-metre, palm-lined strip for an adrenalin-pumping ride (remember to bring your driving licence for this).
Less confident drivers may prefer to opt for the go-karting track or, for those who’d rather take a back seat, there’s the option of being a passenger in a Supersport SST, an Aston Martin GT4 or a three-seater dragster (the last reaches 100 km/ph in less than two seconds) as a professional driver zooms around the track for hair-raising “hot laps” that get your heart battering against your chest.
Opening hours vary. Driver experiences cost Dhs 300-Dhs 1,900 (£53-£337); passenger experiences Dhs 100-Dhs 825 (£18-£147). Go-karting (Tues-Sun 2pm-10pm) costs Dhs 110 (£20). On Tuesdays, from 6pm-9pm, the circuit is open to the public for jogging, cycling and strolling, which is a great way to take in the track at a slower pace. Every Wednesday evening there are women-only yoga, zumba, boot camp and box fit classes that take place on the North Circuit. Yas can also be booked out for car launches, corporate functions, incentives and team-building activities.
