Ingenuity is an inherent quality of this Nordic population and creativity comes easy to them. Such is their acuity that the country has even learnt to make its mistake sound like a saga (read, Vasa Museum).
Success outweighs Sweden’s failure by a wide margin though. It’s a land that is recognised for sleek design, and the world thanks the country for Ikea — a “build-it-yourself” furniture store. In most outlets, people come just to visit its cafe for the meatballs served there.
The Michelin Guide recommends 61 of Stockholm’s restaurants that are worth their salt. Apart from there are seven restaurants with one Michelin star and three restaurants with two Michelin stars.
In spite of being Sweden’s financial hub, Stockholm remains as one of the cleanest cities in the world.
The Swedish capital, culturally and politically more advanced than most countries, is a delight for cyclists, historians, food lovers, party animals and the design aficionado. It has something for everyone.
Vasa Museum
Sweden must be the first country in the world to glorify its failure. Over half a century ago, divers and historians put together wreckage of a 64-gun warship, Vasa that sank no sooner than it left the shores in August 1628.
Despite its tragic history, the reconstructed hull, preserved at the museum’s entry level, does look majestic. A short film talks about Vasa, from its construction to deluge. The top floors have recreated a full-scale model of Vasa’s upper deck where objects found on board are displayed. On loop is a video that talks about naval warfare from the 17th century and what Vasa would have endured, had she not sunk.
Other floors share reasons for Vasa’s drowning, how she was restored, her preservation, tales of people who had occupied her, and her symbolism. A visit to the museum does give an insight into an important part of Swedish history.
Free 25-minute guided tours are available every two hours.
- vasamuseet.se; entry SEK 130/₹1,055; open 8:30am-6pm until August 31, until 8pm on Wednesdays.
Skansen Museum
This is very well an introduction to Stockholm. Built in 1891 as the first, and now oldest open-air (lifestyle oriented) museum, you are literally transported back five centuries to a Swedish village. Unlike a typical museum with exhibits explained through literature, the log-buildings and farmsteads at Skansen show you how they functioned during historic times.
A visit to a soldier’s cottage gives a glimpse into home-sizes and their layouts from the 1800s. Low turf ceilings, log walls, compact rooms of roughly 25 sqm and creaking wooden floorboards are what sheltered the common man. Adding to the authenticity of the experience, candles light the house that has no electricity. A wood burning stove stands in the corner of the living room. On the dining table is a “licence-sign” on parchment paper that states the cottage has been allotted to our host — Soldier No. 91.
The neighbourhood smells of fresh bread; it comes from a bakery manned by a woman and her helper. She slaps the dough with a large flat wooden spoon and flattens it with a spiked rolling pin before tossing it into a stone oven.
An iron master’s farmstead, a printer’s workshop, a spice shop, a farm labourer’s cottage, a post-office, a milkmaid’s cottage, and a woman selling magic potions — watch them work as they would in that age, dressed in garbs that mark the era they lived in.
Other parts of the museum have natural enclosures for animals, a depiction of the Sami camp with tents and live reindeer represent lives of nomads who lived in the mountains, and shops from where you can take home a memory from the visit.
- skansen.se; entry SEK 60/₹485; open 10am-8pm until August 31.
Djurgården
It once used to be a game park where royalty amused themselves by hunting deer, reindeer, elks and other herbivores in the 16th century. Today it’s a beautiful island in central Stockholm with monuments, galleries, and museums — ABBA Museum, Vasa Museum, Skansen Museum, and Nordic Museum are a few to name.
It is at the Isbladskärret lake on the island that birdwatchers spend hours with their cameras. During summer, joggers enjoy scenes of this green patch at all times of the day. Djurgården is popular amongst cyclists too, especially routes that pass by the boathouses and through the green parks.
Södermalm
It’s a hip district because of the student population that hangs out there. Walking out of the Mariatorget station means walking into the midst of activity. Florists try to charm you into buying a stem or two, local artists flash their creations in hopes of impressing you, and as you walk up the cobblestone slope towards the cafes and boutiques, you will be tempted to shake a leg with students showing off their moves.
About 11 minutes later is the Johan & Nyström (johanochnystrom.se; open Mon-Fri 7am-8pm, Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 10am-5pm) coffee house. Its coffee is delicious no doubt, as is the cardamon bun; but its claim to fame remains that it has served its brew at the Nobel Prize dinner from 2012 to 2015. This is only one amongst the many cafe-styled eateries in the locality known for good food. It really depends on what kind of cuisine you desire.
Södermalm was once a neighbourhood for Stockholm’s working class living in buildings preserved since the 16th century. In recent years it has evolved into a trendy location where the local youth wants to be seen. The fashionable crowd are attracted to the nouveau-vintage boutiques with eccentric styles and design studios in the Götgatsbacken area of north Södermalm. A bunch of these can be found in Bruno Galleria (brunogotgatsbacken.se; open Mon-Fri 11am-7pm, Sat until 6pm, Sun 12pm-5pm), a shopping centre that houses trendy studios.
If it is designer brands that you’re looking for, head to SoFo district in eastern Södermalm. But don’t leave before visiting Gilda’s Rum (gildasrum.se; open Mon-Fri 7:30am-10pm, Sat-Sun 8:30am-10pm). The kitschy interiors are a delight to sight. Red is the dominant theme in this little tea house. While you’re here, try the much indulged in Swedish cakes. Expect to be served a huge slice enough for two, and tea or coffee in larger-than-normal sized cups — because more is better, right?
Gamla Stan
The old city was laid down in the 13th century and not much has changed in its appearance since then. It is easily a historian’s playground. The Stortorget square is where the dreadful Stockholm Bloodbath took place in 1520. Danish king Christian II had executed more than 100 members of the Swedish noble families for four continuous days in that very square.
Merchants’ houses from the early 17th century form the periphery of this busy tourist area. Ground levels of the buildings now have cafes from where one can enjoy street performances. The Nobel Museum (nobelmuseum.se, SEK 100/₹800; open 9am-8pm until August 31) that has detailed writings on its laureates since the first year of the award is also situated within Stortorget.
Gamla Stan is filled with structures of historic significance and political importance. Deep within the old city is the baroque-styled Royal Palace (royalpalaces.se; entry SEK 150/₹1,215; open 8:30am-7pm until August 31) from the 18th century, part of which is still functional for official use. Next to the palace is Church of St. Nicholas or Storkyrkan of Swedish Brick Gothic architecture and has been in existence since seven and a half centuries.
The other church by the Finnish that opened in 1725 is more of a landmark. Behind it is presumably the smallest Swedish statue: Järnpojken or The Iron Boy. All of 15 centimetres tall, he is a comparatively newer addition to Gamla Stan — sculpted and affixed by artist Liss Eriksson in 1967. The figure is that of a small boy staring up at the moon. Visit during summer and he remains uncovered, in the winters he wears a woollen hat and a scarf, and when it rains, a tiny umbrella shelters him if a raincoat his size isn’t available yet. Many believe that rubbing his head, especially on a full moon night brings luck.
Restaurants, cafes, souvenir shops and boutiques around the area are the only other signs of the 21st century in Gamla Stan. Most have been around since years and are listed in the Michelin Guide. One amongst them is Den Gyldene Freden (gyldenefreden.se; open Mon-Fri 11:30am-10pm, Sat 1pm-10pm). It is believed that the interiors have barely changed from the time it opened. The restaurant has been serving authentic Nordic cuisine since 300 years, today influenced by bits of international nuances.
The best way to get a sense of Gamla Stan’s past is to join a walking tour. This may come as an usual suggestion, but the Stockholm Ghost Walk (stockholmghostwalk.com; SEK 200/₹1,600) really does take you on a historic journey. They don’t deviate from facts, ghosts and ghouls do not appear on the tour, but you’re thrilled all the same with theatrical storytelling — Gamla Stan has truly seen horror with plague, poverty and bloodshed.
Artipelag
A little towards the outskirts of Stockholm in Baggensfjärden is an international meeting space. Inside is the Artbox (1,200 sqm) event space, The Entrance Hall (435 sqm) for gala dinners and conferences, a private Artist Room (210 sqm) with a separate entrance, Studio (119 sqm) for workshops, The Rooftop Terrace (200 sqm) for a party with a view of Stockholm, and for small private groups: Chrysanthemum (28 sqm) for 16 people, Kärlekens Vindar (32 sqm) for 20 people, Pavilion 1-3 (12-10 sqm) for eight people each, Björn’s Lounge (106 sqm) for 60 people.
If meetings aren’t on the agenda, but a scenic lunch is, Artipelag has Bådan Buffet and Café (open *11am-5pm, Wed until 8pm) built around a fossil rock that juts from its floor, and the fine dining Artipelag Restaurant (open *Wed-Sat 11:30am-10pm, Sun until 8pm, Tue until 5pm) for its seasonal produce. Both have outdoor seating with panoramic views of Stockholm’s greenery. The outdoor barbecue is on first-come first-serve basis (open *Tue-Sun 12pm-4pm).
There is also an in-house boutique and an art gallery. The Legacy of Andy Warhol is on until September 25 (Tue-Sun 11am-5pm, *Wed until 8pm) and will exhibit many of his least known pieces. A pop-up store will have design companies showcasing his prints on their products. artipelag.se
*Timings are valid until August 31.
