Features

Fashion: Suit up

3 Jan 2017 by Business Traveller India

A man looks his best when dressed in a well-fitted suit — is a statement that won’t find much objection. This is one garment that has sustained itself through time, thanks to its versatility. While its classic appeal hasn’t faded, the option of being able to wear it casually too, has made it to contemporary style norms. “Jackets can only be paired with trousers” — doesn’t hold entirely true today; simpler options like jeans and chinos work surprisingly well with it.

It is nothing less than an art to combine classy fabric and good tailoring with intricate details to create a snazzy jacket. Single-breasted ones bear an informal look and are picked as everyday attire for that reason, while double-breasted kinds are chosen for formal occasions. In the last few years, the former have successfully taken over the urban male’s style sentiment. And it’s no surprise that their simple
yet suave feel is unparalleled, helping him make a breezy statement at soirées of all kinds.

Picking a good jacket means having an eye for details. Here is what you should look for.

FABRIC

Fabric, but of course, is chosen on the basis of weather; light options like cotton and linen are absorbent and ideal for warm and humid days. Pick pastels such as powdered yellow or pale pink in these light fabrics for that quintessential summer- look. Pair them with subtly contrasting chinos for a daytime affair.

Woolen and flannel ones won’t just keep you warm in the cold but will also add sufficient character if chosen in pattern or texture. Choose between twill, houndstooth, herringbone, Glenurquhart check or Windowpane check to enhance the look of your jacket. Consider fabric to be the backbone of your masterpiece, and pay attention to details such as how you wear your buttons, vents and lapel of the jacket for final touches.

BUTTONS

The number of buttons you employ depends essentially on the style of the jacket, whether single- or double-breasted. A single-breasted jacket could handle anything between one and three buttons to maintain its casualness. In case it has three buttons, the middle button must be closed at all times;

the bottom and topmost ones can remain open. When the piece has two buttons, leave the bottom one unbuttoned; a jacket with one button looks
best buttoned up. The buttons on a suit are also essential in deciding its fit. Watch closely, if the fabric stretches, pick a bigger size.

LAPEL

The lapel is the folded flap on the front of your jacket, and it comes in three styles: notch, peaked and shawl. When the lapel is sewn to the jacket’s collar at an angle, mostly at 75-90 degrees, it creates a notch lapel or a step lapel. It is used most frequently because of its versatility, and is found in single-breasted
suit jackets, blazers and sports coats. The peaked or “pointed” lapel is striking and more formal, with its edges pointing towards the shoulders. The shawl lapel — slightly arched — exudes opulence with its continuous curve and is worn mostly at black-tie events along with a bow-tie for that classic look. The occasion and your confidence must be the only two factors influencing your lapel choice.

VENTS

A slit in the bottom rear of the jacket is a vent.
These cuts contribute significantly to your comfort, especially when seated. They depend on the style of the blazer and on the country of its origin (mostly Italian, American and English). The Italian jacket is narrower from the back compared to the American or English type, since it lacks any vent(s). The American style is single-vented, dividing the back of the jacket into two equal halves. Relatively “open”
is the British style, with two side vents for added comfort. Shoulders are lightly-padded and armholes are higher for closer-fitting sleeves. All three kinds are considered timeless and formal; the kind of vents you pick, depend solely on your body type and the fit you prefer to adopt.

POCKETS

Apart from minimal practical usage, pockets are now making a mark on a jacket’s aesthetic. A patch pocket (made from a separate piece of cloth sewn on the outside of a jacket) is simple and informal. Ticket pockets, with their British history of being the go-to pouch for equestrians who needed to access change at toll points, are more formal. They are sewn as a small flap placed just above the right main hip pocket on a man’s jacket. Though not
a contemporary necessity, these pockets still add immense sharpness to a jacket, especially when worn by a tall man. Angled and flap pockets look as dapper but are considered casual. Jetted pockets are the inner pockets with a slit and can add a minimal sophistication to your jacket.

TIPS

■ Pay most attention to the fit and length of your jacket. It should end at half an inch above the shirt’s sleeve. A piece with sleeves too long or short could single handedly degrade your look, despite perfect fabric, buttons, vents and lapel.

■ Grey and navy blue colours are appropriate for everyday work wear; black is mostly a colour of choice for formal occasions.

■ When pairing the suit jacket with a pair of jeans, avoid unnecessary cuts and patterns. Hem the ankle portion of the jeans if needed. If not, opt for chinos as an alternative, younger option.

■ Even though the suit jacket is a versatile piece of clothing, it’s often worn more with trousers.

Rashida Jasdanwala

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