The fascinating world of gems and jewellery is a mystery stretching across continents and oceans: for a business traveller, unravelling some of this mystery and understanding the unique resources and offerings of countries and cities could present serendipitous opportunities to pick up magnificent baubles on a trip. From Hong Kong to New York, Manila to London, Colombo to Sydney, Bangkok, Tokyo or even far-flung Rio De Janeiro, each city has unique gem and jewellery offerings worthy of a traveller’s attention.
While not without its charms, the modern global jewellery business is also vast and quite daunting. Diamonds tend to rule the roost with main mines in Africa, Russia and Canada, while cutting and trading operations are centred in Mumbai, Antwerp and Tel Aviv. New York and Hong Kong, meanwhile, are top trading centres. However, following the 4 Cs – observing the cut, colour, clarity and carat of a diamond – and accessing published price lists make diamond purchasing a more straightforward experience.
Most of the world’s rarest and fascinating gems are found in the Southern Hemisphere. These were formed in the earth millions of years ago and have mostly been discovered by accident. The oldest gemstone finds are recorded in Sri Lanka while Myanmar and Thailand are also home to some of the world’s oldest gems. The treasure recently discovered on the 10th century merchant ship Cirebon off the coast of Java featured hundreds of sapphires, red garnets (initially believed to be rubies) and zircons from Sri Lanka, chunks of lapis lazuli from Afghanistan and natural pearls fished from the Gulf of Mannar in Sri Lanka and the Persian Gulf. UK gem expert Dr Ken Scarratt, currently the director for South East Asia of the Gemological Institute of America and GIA Research Center in Bangkok, confirmed the origins of this gem treasure.
In South America, Brazil is an important source of a spectrum of gemstones including tourmaline, topaz and quartz while neighbouring Colombia is best known for its emeralds, and is the world’s biggest miner and producer. However in the last couple of decades, Africa – Madagascar, Mozambique and Tanzania in particular – have become significant gemstone producers.
A location may also be host to its own unique gemstone: Tanzania produces the beautiful blue Tanzanite while the Tsavo National Park in Kenya is home to vibrant green Tsavorite garnets, and Paraiba in Brazil is famous for the magnificent blue green Paraiba tourmaline.
The gem map
For centuries Europe – in particular Rome, Paris, London – were the centres of fine jewellery, which were mostly crafted for European royalty and nobility. But the latter half of the 20th century saw immense changes in the jewellery industry due to rising costs of production in Europe and the movement of production to Asia, primarily Hong Kong & China, Thailand and India.
Another big change came about when India set up diamond factories and trained millions of workers to cut tiny diamonds from rough that had previously been discarded as useless. These tiny diamonds – and thousands of other colourful gemstones – were then set into jewellery, which gave rise to the mass jewellery market.
To counter this mass production, the world’s most discriminating designers strive to create one-of-a-kind pieces that celebrate gems and the heritage of fine crafting skills. A few cities still keep ancient craft skills alive: Vicenza and Valenza in Italy, for example, have retained their long tradition of gold jewellery making while Bali’s long tradition of intricate silversmithing supports numerous production houses including international brand John Hardy, which produces fine pieces according to an eco agenda. Business Traveller presents the top places to pick up dazzling treasures for your suitcase.
Colombo
Sri Lanka is the world’s oldest source of sapphires and continues to produce a fascinating spectrum of sapphires from its famous gem gravels. Ceylon blue sapphires are the most sought-after, while pinks, purples and the padparadscha – a rare orange pink-sapphire – command premium prices in
international markets.
Sri Lanka is also a famous source of many other gemstones, with more than 100 varieties recorded. These include alexandrites, a highly prized gemstone that changes colour in artificial light, chrysoberyl cat’s eye, spinel and topaz.
Colombo has dozens of stores selling fine sapphire jewellery and loose sapphires. Leading retailers such as Zam Gems (81 Galle Road Colombo 4 +9411 2589090) and Colombo Jewellery Stores (1 Alfred House Gardens, Colombo 3 +9411 2585187) have a good selection of styles and pricing. A blue sapphire ring will set you back at least US$1,500, while prices for a padparadscha sapphire ring start at US$6,000. If the styling does not appeal, it’s better to buy a loose sapphire (from US$1,000 a carat) and have it set by a jeweller in Hong Kong who will charge around US$300 for workmanship and US$300 for the gold (depending on weight) plus the price of diamond highlights. For those seeking a more unusual design, a bespoke designer in London is a good choice but be prepared to spend a few thousand US dollars for their design and jewellery crafting input.
Bangkok
Thailand has been a source of rubies and sapphires for centuries and its famous gem market in Chanthaburi is where most gem lovers go to buy stones. The Thais were among the first to discover how to heat dark sapphires and turn them lighter, and it was this know-how that made Bangkok an important gemstone hub. But caution needs to be exercised when buying in Bangkok, as numerous scams have been reported particularly in tourist areas. It’s recommended to purchase gems from members of the Jewel Fest Club, which was set up by the Thai Gem & Jewelry Traders Association (TGJTA) and the Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT), and you’ll find such vendors housed in luxury malls such as Siam Paragon or Gaysorn Plaza. Try Prima Gems (991 Main Floor Siam Paragon; +662 2129 4786) or P.T. House (Unit 13, 3/F Gaysorn Plaza), where prices for the most basic pieces start at US$10,000.
Sydney
Similarly expert entrepreneurs in remote bays in Western Australia produce amazing white South Sea pearls in pinctada maxima oysters fished from the wild. Well-known Australian pearl brands have chic stores in Sydney offering attractive, competitively priced pieces. Paspaley (2 Martin Place; +612 9232 7633), Kailis (The Westin Sydney, 1 Martin Place) and Autore (104 King’s Street; +612 9223 9906) are all worth a visit. Prices start from about US$900 for a simple pair of earrings and go up to tens of thousands of dollars.
Sydney is also a good showcase of Australia’s national gem, the opal. The continent is the world’s largest producer this gemstone, from the exquisite black type to the glorious white and boulder varieties. The National Opal Collection (60 Pitt Street; +612 9247 6344) has a solid selection of opal jewellery and a fascinating museum that links opals and dinosaurs. Prices start from US$50 and go up to US$15,000. For contemporary selections try Jan Logan (G/F David Jones, Elizabeth Street; +612 9266 5379) while Cerrone (77 Castlereagh Street; +612 8246 9119) offer bespoke, handmade items from about US$2,000 a piece. Looking for vintage offerings? Try the Sydney Antique Centre in Surry Hills and the weekend Rozelle Markets.
Rio De Janeiro
Brazil is an amazing source of a range of colourful gemstones: its famed aquamarine plus beautiful colours of tourmaline including the rare Paraiba and the popular rubellite are at the top of the list of Brazilian treasures. Emerald, alexandrite and delightful colours of topaz are others. Brazil’s well-known international brand H. Stern’s headquarters (Rua Garcia D’Avila 133 Ipanema; +5521 2106 0000) is a good place to start including the workshop tour. Prices start from about US$300.
London
London is home to some of the world’s best contemporary jewellery designers while stone setters, enamellers and metal engravers are also in abundance. Established in 1300 to test the quality of gold and silver, The Goldsmiths’ Company also funds apprenticeships and assists in the technical training of aspiring craftsmen. The city’s celebrated designers include Stephen Webster (93 Mount Street; +44 84 5539 1840) Solange Azagury-Partridge (5 Carlos Place, Mayfair; +44 207 7920 197) and Theo Fennel (169 Fulham Road; +44 207 591 5000).
This lively design scene has attracted designer jewellers from other countries too, including German designer Ingo Henn of Henn of London (Suite 118, 100 Hatton Garden +44 207 8314 480), Dutch designer Leo De Vroomen (59 Elizabeth Street; +44 207 7301 901) and Polish/Austrian designer, Tomasz Donocik, (www.tomaszdonocik.com). Prices for pieces from these designers start at around US$5,000.
Tokyo
Japan was the centre of the cultured pearl business during the 20th century. In 1898, Kokichi Mikimoto, the son of a noodle shop owner successfully cultivated the first pearls. His tireless efforts and savvy marketing skills put Mikimoto Pearls – and Japan – firmly on the jewellery map. However with the collapse of the economy in the 1990s the business took a beating and a significant percentage of the pearl industry moved to Hong Kong. Recently there has been an attempt to revive the pearl business. Tokyo Pearl (16-3 Ginza 6-Chome Chuo Ku; +813 3541 5555) is among retailers leading the way. Purchases above JPY10,801 (US$106) by overseas visitors are tax free.
Idar-Oberstein
The oldest gemstone cutting and carving centre in the world, this small German town around 130km southeast of Frankfurt sits on an agate, jasper and rock crystal deposit that provided the impetus for gem cutting in the 1400s, when cutting machines were powered by water wheels fed by the Nahe River. As fame of Idar’s cutters spread, jewellers from all over the world sent their rough to be cut here. However, as wages increased, many of Idar-Oberstein’s cutters migrated to the world’s largest source of gemstones, Brazil. Those who stayed became the cutters of the world’s finest gems, which in turn gave rise to the hunt for precious rough. Recent pioneers include Hans Jurgen Henn (of gem trading firm Henn GmbH), who led gem hunts to the remotest parts of Africa, the gemfields of Sri Lanka and the highlands of Pakistan.
While Idar is a place of wholesale business, several companies including Henn (Mainzer Strasse 60; +49 67 8146 061) and the rough stone cellar, lapidary and showroom of Constantin Wild & Co (Hauptstrasse 103; +49 67 8194 500) welcome visitors. Prices for gemstones start at about US$300 a piece but Idar’s famous one-of-a-kind pieces cost from US$10,000 and up.
Manila
Beneath the azure seas in Palawan and other remote islands of the southern Philippines, millions of gold-lipped oysters that began life in land-based hatcheries are producing breathtaking golden pearls. Using advanced biotechnology, several farming enterprises – each with its own in-house scientists – are coaxing larger and more lustrous pearls from these bivalves. Leading producer, Jewelmer International Corp has several stores in Manila (Glorietta 4, Ayala Centre, Makati City; +632 7296 735) offering Philippine golden pearls in contemporary styles. Prices for rings and pendants (without diamonds) range from US$550 to US$3,000 while a pair of earrings ranges from US$1,000 to US$6,000. A visit to a pearl farm to observe the production process is an unforgettable experience: join the pearl safari offered to guests at Flower island resort in Palawan.
Hong Kong
Many discerning gem lovers claim Hong Kong is the best place to buy jewellery, as the city’s tax free status and innumerable jewellery stores make it a jewellery shopper’s paradise.
In the 1980s Hong Kong became an important diamond centre, while during the 1990s the centre of the world’s pearl business shifted from Japan to Hong Kong as shoppers began to realise that some of the best diamond and pearl jewellery deals can be found in Hong Kong. Taxes in other markets – for example a 15 to 20 per cent value added tax in Europe plus retail mark ups that range from 100 to 200 percent – make these items far more expensive in Europe. An avid jewellery buyer based in Switzerland says even well known Swiss brands are cheaper to purchase in Hong Kong. However, visitors should note that shop rents are high in Hong Kong, so prices at street level shops are higher than at office showrooms of wholesalers in Tsim Sha Tsui.
Top recommendations are Chow Sang Sang (37 Queen’s Road Central; +852 3583 4150) for trendy designs prices starting from about US$50 and up and Chow Tai Fook for bigger ticket diamond, pearl or jade jewellery in prices above US$1,000. Branded jewellery with high design value cost from US$300 to US$1,000 while branded items with high gold content and important stones sell above US$10,000.
Hong Kong’s gem and jewellery shows in March, June and September at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre and Asia World Expo offer amazing deals from jewellers and dealers all over the world with prices starting from US$100 and up to tens of thousands of dollars. Unlike other trade fairs, these shows welcome consumers.
Jade is another popular purchase in Hong Kong and the jade market in Kowloon is a good place to start. When shopping for jade, check type, quality and origin of the stone. Jade is classified into three types: Type A refers to natural fei cui or jadeite jade that has not been subjected to any form of chemical treatment. This jade is usually polished with colourless wax and its crystalline structure will not be damaged. Type B jade refers to fei cui chemically treated and resin-impregnated to improve its lustre, resulting in its crystalline structure being damaged. Type C refers to jade dyed to improve its colour. Buy from a retailer accredited by the Hong Kong Tourism Board’s Quality Tourism Services label.
How to shop for gems
Buying gems or jewelleryis an emotive, personal purchase and requires a considered approach: avid buyers advise that a purchase should be made only if a piece “speaks” to the shopper. For gemstones, the value factors of rarity, colour, cut and size are important considerations. Colour is not just a hue in gemstones – it’s about the liveliness of appearance and the degree of light and brightness that emerges from the stone. Cutting is therefore the key – it is the cutter’s expertise that lets out the light from a stone.
For pearls it is the origin, colour, lustre and shape: perfect rounds are the most sought after, but it’s a matter of taste and baroques and drops do tend to have great appeal. Shop at a city’s most reputed retailers and avoid buying from street vendors and touristy places where scams abound. When in doubt, it’s best to have your purchase certified by a reputed gemological laboratory. Most cities have at least one reliable laboratory.
