The dust has finally settled, literally, for the southern Chinese city of Guangzhou. Michael Taylor has recently visited and found a metropolis buzzing with new energy
Guangzhou, the third largest city in China and the leading city in the country’s south, has always been an outward looking place. In its former identity as Canton, it was one of the first cities in dynastic China to open up to foreign trade. In the 21st century, it remains an important business city with its biannual Canton Fair and manufacturing industry. It has also recently played host to one the world’s largest sporting events.
One of the city’s defining characteristics in the run-up to last year’s Asian Games was the frenetic pace of construction. Old roads were torn up, new roads were laid, historic districts were given a facelift, trees were planted, parks were created, skyscrapers were constructed and sports venues were built. Many of these things were going to happen anyway, but there was a mad rush to get things done and as a result, the city was engulfed in perpetual dust.
Now, post-Games, a sense of calm seems to have returned to the capital of Guangdong province. That layer of dust no longer lines the sidewalks; the air seems a bit less polluted; the streets don’t seem as crowded, and the people seem to have slowed down considerably.
Interestingly, most of the hotels that were hoping to open in time for the Games didn’t succeed, owing to construction delays and problems with government regulations that have become stricter in recent years.
As a result, this year is seeing a bumper crop of new properties, all opening one after another. The Crowne Plaza Guangzhou City Centre was the first, throwing open its doors for a soft opening in May. It was followed in rapid succession by the Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich and the Sheraton Guangzhou Hotel, both of which opened in early summer. The Crowne Plaza Huadu, Hilton Guangzhou Baiyun, Hilton Guangzhou Tianhe and Westin Pazhou followed in late August. Others to open before year’s end include the JW Marriott Tianhe and the Four Seasons Tianhe.
The city has been transformed and now is the best time to visit.
HOTELS
Crowne Plaza Guangzhou City Centre
Located in Guangzhou’s historic Yuexiu district, Crowne Plaza Guangzhou City Centre has 463 rooms. Its four food and beverage outlets include a fine-dining Cantonese restaurant and an all-day international buffet restaurant. The lobby bar has live entertainment. Other facilities include meeting and event rooms, a business centre, a fitness centre, an affiliated spa and an outdoor swimming pool. Lili Marlene, one of the city’s hottest nightspots, is located downstairs. Standard rooms start at RMB958/US$149 (Monday-Thursday) and RMB858/US$134 (Friday-Sunday).
339 Huanshi Road East. Yuexiu District, tel +86 20 8363 8888, www.crowneplaza.com
Sheraton Guangzhou Hotel
Situated in Guangzhou’s Tianhe District, the Sheraton Guangzhou Hotel has one of the best locations of the new crop of hotels. It is located directly above a metro station, the city’s best bookshop is just five minutes away, and the neighbourhood is full of shops and restaurants. The hotel itself has Chinese and Italian fine dining restaurants as well as an all-day dining international buffet restaurant, a spa and an outdoor swimming pool. Standard rooms start at RMB1,388 (US$216) per night.
208 Tianhe Road, Tianhe District, tel +86 20 6668 8888, www.starwoodhotels.com
Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich
From the French soundtrack in the elevators to the staff that greet you with “bonjour!”, the Sofitel Guangzhou Sunrich is dripping with French flair. It has 493 rooms, five food and beverage outlets including a Cantonese restaurant and a Japanese steakhouse. Other facilities include meeting rooms, fitness centre, indoor pool and a Jacuzzi. Its sumptuous spa will serve as Sofitel’s flagship wellness facility for Asia. There is free broadband internet access throughout. Standard rooms start at RMB1,450/US$226 (Monday-Thursday) and RMB1,200/US$187 (Friday-Sunday).
988 Guangzhou Da Dao Zhong, Tianhe District, tel +86 20 3883 8888 or +86 20 3883 3333, www.sofitel.com
Crowne Plaza Huadu
Located near Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport, Crowne Plaza Huadu is the first five-star hotel in this part of town.
189 Yingbin Avenue, Huadu District, tel +86 20 3690 0888, www.crowneplaza.com
Four Seasons Guangzhou Hotel
Scheduled to open late 2011
With an atrium lobby on the 70th floor, five food and beverage outlets, a spa and other facilities, the Four Seasons will occupy the top third of the 103-storey IFC Guangzhou.
2 Zhujiang West Road, Pearl River New City, www.fourseasons.com/guangzhou
Hilton Guangzhou Baiyun
Twenty minutes from Baiyun International Airport, this property is nestled among the foothills of the Mountain Scenic Area and near the newly opened shopping mall, Wanda Plaza.
515-517 Yuncheng East Road Baiyun D, tel +86 20 6660 0666, www1.hilton.com
Hilton Guangzhou Tianhe
The hotel will have four food and beverage outlets and is 40 minutes’ drive from the airport and five minutes’ walk to Guangzhou East Railway Station.
215 Linhe West Heng Road, Tianhe District, tel +86 20 6683 9999, www1.hilton.com
The Westin Pazhou
Located within the Guangzhou Convention and Exhibition Centre, the Westin Pazhou has 325 rooms and four food and beverage outlets.
Area C, Guangzhou International Convention Centre, Fengpu Middle Road, Haizhu District, tel +86 20 8918 1818, www.starwoodhotels.com
RESTAURANTS
Bing Sheng
2 Xichun Road, Zhujiang New Town, tel +86 20 3803 5888
Ask chefs where they dine on their day off, and most will say, “Bing Sheng”. Nouvelle Cantonese cuisine, with a focus on Chinese-style sashimi. Locals swear by the raw shrimp.
Average food cost: ¥¥–¥¥¥¥
The Penthouse
Top Floor, Grand Hyatt Guangzhou, 12 Zhujiang West Road, Pearl River New City, Tianhe District, tel +86 20 8396 1234 ext. 3399 or 3398
For fine-dining, innovative Cantonese, in intimate surroundings, you can’t beat The Penthouse. There are 13 residential-style private rooms, each with its own unique décor and tended by dedicated butlers. Dishes change seasonally. Average food cost: ¥¥–¥¥¥¥
Sulton Restaurant
367 Huanshi East Road, Yuexiu District, tel +86 20 8349 4170
This Turkish eatery caters to Guangzhou’s Turkish community; most of the staff and patrons are Turkish. The pitta bread is fresh from the oven, and the coffee is the best this side of Istanbul.
Average food cost: ¥–¥¥
Key
¥ dishes under 50 yuan (US$7.79)
¥¥ dishes under 100 yuan (US$15.58)
¥¥¥ dishes under 150 yuan (US$23.37)
¥¥¥¥ dishes over 150 yuan (US$23.37)
SHOPPING
Beijing Road
A pedestrian mall running for several blocks through one of the city’s oldest neighbourhoods, Beijing Road has clothing boutiques, fast-food joints, restaurants serving regional and international cuisine, a couple of bookstores, and piles upon piles of vendors selling cheap goods. The once tawdry strip underwent a well-needed revamp in the run-up to the Asian Games.
Beijing Road, Yuexiu District
Guangzhou Books Centre
A vast selection of Chinese language books spread over several floors. There is also a strong English language department, with well-bound paperback classics selling for just RMB25 (US$4). Other departments sell everything from sporting goods and sportswear to consumer electronics and musical instruments.
123 Tianhe Road, Tianhe District, tel +86 20 3886 4208
One Link International Toys and Gifts Wholesale Marketplace
The place to rummage for unexpected treasures. Interior designers, creative directors and art directors frequent the place.
39 Jiefang Road South, Haizhu District, tel +86 20 8328 0028
ATTRACTIONS
Canton Tower
Soaring 600 metres over the central business district is Canton Tower, the world’s tallest TV tower. There are several observations decks – both enclosed and open air – at different levels. Glazed platforms with transparent floors allow those that dare the chance to look straight down to the ground, and there are two revolving restaurants, two food courts, one VIP restaurant and various other facilities.
Scheduled to open in October 2011 are the world’s highest Ferris wheel, which will take those with strong stomachs on an elliptical track running around the tower’s perimeter, and the Gravity Machine, which will lift daredevils 38 metres higher into the air and then plunge them back down in seconds.
Entrance fee: RMB50-150 (US$8-$23), depending on how far up you want to ascend.
Yuejiang Road West and Yiyuan Raod, Haizhu District, http://gztvtower.info
Guangzhou Opera House
Designed by world-renowned Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, the innovative “double pebble” Guangzhou Opera House takes pride of place amid the city’s rapidly expanding commercial district. Upcoming shows run from Spanish flamenco to Broadway musicals to the Korean comic sensation BEAT!
tel +86 20 3839 2888 or 3839 2666, www.gzdjy.org
Lili Marlene
There’s no dance floor at this heaving nightspot because the entire venue is one great big dance floor. Live entertainment, full of energy. No cover, no minimum.
First Floor, Main Tower, Guangdong International Building, 339 Huanshi East Road, Yuexiu District, tel +86 20 8337 7088
True Color Club
This is the current hottest nightspot in town, packing in the crowds seven nights a week. Stellar DJs as well as floor shows and fashion shows. No cover, no minimum.
276 Yanjiang Middle Road, Yuexiu District, tel +86 20 8373 5858, www.truecolorclub.com
How to get there
Most long-distance travellers arrive by air, landing at Guangzhou Baiyun International Airport, which is 28 kilometres from downtown Guangzhou. Both domestic and international carriers serve more than 100 destinations around the world.
Most travellers from Hong Kong and Shenzhen arrive by train. There are several through trains from the Hung Hom MTR Station in Kowloon direct to the Guangzhou East Railway Station in downtown Guangzhou. The trip takes about 90 minutes. Trains from the Shenzhen Railway Station in Lo Wu, near the Hong Kong border, to Guangzhou East as well as the Guangzhou Railway Station operate at frequent intervals. The journey takes approximately 70 minutes.
