Neeti Mehra recommends a quartet of eateries in the Indian capital
Old
Roshan Di Kulfi
A veritable institution, Roshan Di Kulfi has been serving delights whipped up in 100 per cent shudh desi ghee (pure clarified butter) since the 1950s.
The late Roshan Lal Soni, one of many affected by India’s partition, made his way to Delhi and started this homely restaurant in the heart of the city’s bustling marketplace. While it has gone through a few revamps over the years, it remains true to its culinary roots, with bhaturas (fried plump bread) still prepared on the roadside behind a serving hatch.
Try the chole-bhature (chick peas with fried bread), the lovely chaat (savoury and sweet snacks), and the kulfi with falooda, an Indian version of ice cream served with vermicelli noodles. Snacks cost Rs 34-80 (30p-80p).
Open daily 8am-10pm; 2,816 Ajmal Khan Road, Karol Bagh; tel +91 112 872 4230
New
SodaBottleOpenerWala
Opened in the shiny business suburb of Gurgaon last November, SodaBottleOpenerWala pays homage to Mumbai’s dying Irani cafés – the Persian restaurants opened by Parsi immigrants in the 19th century.
It replicates their old-world charm with antique-style lights, cuckoo clocks and glass jars stuffed with goodies.
The menu offers Parsi delicacies – try the mutton berry pulao (chunks of tender meat simmered in spices served with rice), the kheema pao (mince curry with bread) and patra ni machi (steamed fish with green chutney presented in a banana leaf). Finish with the lagan nu custard with special Iranian chai. Mains cost Rs 165-495 (£1.50-£4.80).
Open daily. Irani bakery and chai bar 9am until stocks last; all-day menu 11.30am-12am. Cyber Hub, Shop 3, DLF Cyber City, Phase II, next to building 8, Gurgaon; tel +91 124 651 8801; sodabottleopenerwala.com
Borrowed
Guppy by Ai
When contemporary Japanese restaurant Ai closed its doors in Delhi’s MGF Metropolitan Mall, fans were heartbroken.
Reinvented as Guppy by Ai, this culinary outpost is located in a more accessible leafy enclave next to the capital's corridors of power, and features colourful anime and origami art.
Enjoy a meal under the fragrant frangipani tree in the courtyard, or take a seat at the sushi counter in the café. At lunchtime there is a set menu, but come dusk, settle in for an indulgent range of sushi, sashimi, rice and noodles.
Highlights include the chef’s signature pork belly, the black cod and the chashu ramen – homemade egg noodles in a broth that has been simmered over a flame for 72 hours. Mains cost Rs 800-1,850 (£8-£17).
Open daily 12pm-3.30pm, 7pm-12.30; 28 Main Market, Lodhi Colony; tel +91 112 469 0005; guppybyai.com
View
Olive Bar and Kitchen
This minimalist restaurant is housed in an atmospheric Mughal mansion overlooking the wondrous Qutub Minar – one of the highest towers in the country, and a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Gazing at the monument on a moonlit night while seated on the terrace and tucking into the delicious, rustic Mediterranean cuisine makes for an unforgettable evening.
The seared tuna niçoise salad embellished with flavoursome quail eggs is a popular choice – follow with the duck breast glazed with fennel and honey, and round things off with the delicate strawberry mille-feuille. Dishes cost Rs 850-1,800 (£8-£17).
Open daily 12pm-12am, Sunday brunch 12pm-4pm, Dirty Martini bar Wed-Sun 7pm-12am. Ground floor,
1 Style Mile, Haveli 6-8, Kalkadass Marg, Mehrauli; tel +91 112 957 4444; olivebarandkitchen.com
