Neil Davey recommends a quartet of restaurants in the US city
OLD - Union Oyster House
Open since 1826, Union Oyster House is the oldest restaurant in continuous service in the US, and the only one that’s a “Designated National Historic Landmark”. If you want more recent history, you can even sit at JFK’s favourite booth.
You’d forgive the owners, then, if they traded on their heritage and offered purely tourist-trap fodder. But while the cutting-edge is absent from both the cosy wooden décor and the traditional seafood-heavy New England menu – which includes clam chowder (US$8 a bowl), oysters (US$16) and market-price lobster – the cooking and preparation is spot on, and the simplicity of the cuisine allows its fresh ingredients to shine through.
No wonder it’s so popular with locals and visitors alike.
Open 11am-9.30pm (10pm Fri-Sat). 41 Union Street; tel +1 617 227 2750; unionoysterhouse.com
NEW - Mei Mei
For the past couple of years, Boston’s food truck scene has been brightened by the presence of Mei Mei.
Siblings Andy, Margaret and Irene Li have brought together various influences – traditional and American Chinese, US comfort eating, and a love of local, sustainable ingredients – and created something healthy, hearty and utterly delicious.
The truck’s success has now extended to a bright and airy bricks-and-mortar eatery close to Fenway Park, open since November.
The menu reflects the truck’s offerings at lunchtime, such as the superb “24 Carrot Soup” (US$4.50) and the Double Awesome – local greens pesto, Vermont cheddar and low-poached-then-fried eggs in a scallion pancake (US$7). For dinner it switches to small, medium and sharing plates.
Open daily 11am-10pm. 506 Park Drive; tel +1 857 250 4959; meimeiboston.com
BORROWED - Oleana
Just across the Charles River (and a short subway ride) from Boston lies Cambridge, home to Harvard University and local favourite Oleana, a culinary melting pot of Arabic, Mediterranean and Turkish cuisines.
The setting is traditional and homely – carpets hanging on walls, a flickering fireplace – but in summer Ana Sortun’s inventive cuisine finds its natural home on the patio.
This is good-value, big-flavoured cooking, with options ranging from muhlama meze – a Turkish-style fondue with crispy Brussels sprouts and fried pickles (US$9) – to larger dishes such as duck and Iranian noodle soup with black-eyed peas, lentils, spinach, herbs and yoghurt (US$25). The desserts are also excellent – try the cocoa-rose ice cream with a date-rose truffle.
Open 5.30pm-10pm (11pm Fri-Sat). 134 Hampshire Street, Cambridge; tel +1 617 661 0505; oleanarestaurant.com
VIEW - Sam's
For a hearty meal in a cosmopolitan setting, make your way to Sam’s. The menu celebrates the region’s bounty and simpler fare – think fine fresh oysters (market price), a black peppercorn burger (US$16), and herb-baked chicken with dried cranberries and spiced pecans (US$17). There’s also some inventive fusion on display, such as pan-seared hake with country ham, potatoes, shellfish broth and lemongrass aioli (US$33).
Located on the second floor of an upmarket clothes store at Fan Pier, the huge windows and wraparound balconies offer great views of Boston Harbour, East Boston and Downtown – and, perhaps unusually for a place by the waterfront, it seems to be well-heeled locals rather than visitors that have stumbled upon it.
On a bright Sunday morning, it’s probably the best place to be for brunch, and on Friday nights there is live music from 8pm to 11pm.
Open 11.30am-10pm (Fri-Sat until 11pm, Sun 11am-9pm). 60 Northern Avenue; tel + 1 617 295 0191; samsatlouis.com
