Alison Jung takes a taxi tour of the Missouri city and finds Egyptian mummies, leafy parks and frozen custard
Gateway Arch
Begin your tour at St Louis’s most notable landmark, the Gateway Arch. At the edge of the Mississippi River, reaching 192 metres at its peak, it claims to be the tallest national monument in the US and has symbolised the city’s position as America’s “Gateway to the West” since its completion in 1965. Its oversized curved shape, made of 800 tonnes of shimmering stainless steel, can be spotted throughout the city. It also provides unparalleled views of the St Louis skyline, so is a great way to get your bearings – enter through one of the legs and take a four-minute tram ride to the observation area at the top of the structure. Trams run every ten minutes (9.20am-5.10pm in winter, 8.20am-9.10pm in summer) and cost US$10. Visit gatewayarch.com
Anheuser-Busch Brewery
Head next to one of St Louis’s most loved institutions, the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, about a seven-minute cab ride away. (Taxis are not available to hail but can be called – see box on facing page for recommended firms.) In operation since the 1850s, the facility brews a wide variety of lagers, including America’s first national beer brand, Budweiser – it was the original brewery for Budweiser and also remains its North American HQ. Take a free guided tour to learn about its history and the brewing process, and to sample some products. Bear in mind that tours last about an hour and a half, running every ten to 30 minutes between 10am and 4pm Sept-Apr, 9am-4pm May and 9am-5pm June-Aug (from 11.30am on Sundays). Open daily; 610 Pestalozzi; budweisertours.com
The Loop
Next, take a cab to Delmar Boulevard and Skinker Boulevard. This six-block stretch of road is known to locals as “the Loop” and features more than 140 places to shop, eat, people-watch and listen to music – it was named “One of the Ten Greatest Streets in America” by the American Planning Association (planning.org) three years ago. Keep an eye out for the old Tivoli Theatre (landmarktheatres.com), which has been standing since 1924 and is now a cinema, as well as the Pageant (thepageant.com), a cosy concert venue that often hosts big names.
Stop off at Blueberry Hill (blueberryhill.com), a restaurant and music venue where pop-culture memorabilia is always on display – you might even see rock ‘n’ roll great Chuck Berry, who performs there regularly. If your musical urges are not yet satisfied, head to Vintage Vinyl (vintagevinyl.com), a favourite for both old and new hits from all genres. At Baked T’s (bakedts.com), you can design your own T-shirts, while at Fitz’s microbrewery and restaurant (fitzsrootbeer.com), you can watch the bottling process of traditional American root beer.
As you walk along the Loop, pay special attention to the pavement – bronze plaques and brass stars scattered along it remember St Louisans who have made major contributions to US history. Among the names are literary giants T S Eliot and Maya Angelou, aviator Charles Lindbergh and former president Ulysses S Grant. See visit theloop.com
Forest Park
Hop on the Metrolink at Delmar Boulevard and take it one stop to Forest Park-De Baliviere Avenue. Open since 1876, Forest Park was the home of the 1904 World’s Fair and is set in 520 hectares, about 200 more than New York’s Central Park. It also houses many of the city’s main attractions, such as the Grand Basin and the Art Museum (slam.org), which showcases everything from an ancient Egyptian mummy to works by Jackson Pollock.
It’s free to visit, as is St Louis Zoo (stlzoo.org), home to sea lions and primates; the St Louis Science Center (slsc.org), where hands-on exhibits include a life-size animated tyrannosaurus rex and triceratops; the James S McDonnell Planetarium, where the Zeiss Planetarium Model IX projects more than 9,000 stars on to a 24-metre high dome; and the Missouri History Museum (mohistory.org), which features exhibits on Lindbergh’s 1927 transatlantic flight.
There’s also an outdoor theatre in summer, a skating rink in winter, a community golf course, a tennis centre and numerous walking trails. Free audio guides are available, while walking tours take place at 1pm Mon and 10am Tues-Thurs (meet in the lobby of the Dennis and Judith Jones Visitor and Education Center).
Visit stlouis.missouri.org
The Hill
You’ll probably have worked up a hunger by now, so take a short cab ride to the Hill, just south of Forest Park. On the way, grab a slice at Imo’s Pizza at 5,806 Hampton Avenue, home of the delicious St Louis-style pizza, with its extra-thin crust and local Provel cheese topping.
With its firm Italian roots, the Hill is one of the few ethnic-immigrant neighbourhoods that has remained intact in the city. Restaurants, pizza parlours, bakeries and markets line the streets – for a traditional Italian meal, head to Giovanni’s on the Hill at 5,201 Shaw Avenue, which has fed Oprah Winfrey and Ronald Reagan. Or try Mama Toscano’s Ravioli (2,201 Macklind Ave), where you can taste handmade ravioli with a St Louis twist – breaded and fried. But skip dessert, as your next stop will deal with any sugar cravings…
Tours are available if you’d like to hear the story of the Hill – contact Joe De Gregorio ([email protected]) to book one tailored to your needs. Visit thehillstl.com
Ted Drewes and Gooey Louie
To sample a signature St Louis dessert, take a taxi south to Chippewa Street, which is part of the old Route 66. Ted Drewes (teddrewes.com) at number 6,726 has been a summer tradition for more than 80 years, selling ice cream and sweet concoctions at its stand. Its concrete-like, frozen custard is so incredibly thick that servers will often turn it upside down before handing it to you to prove it’s a Ted Drewes original. Be prepared for a queue as hungry visitors line the street and car park to get a taste.
Otherwise, head 1km east to Gooey Louie’s shop at 483 Chippewa (gooeylouiecake.com), where you can find some of the best gooey butter cakes in the city. Another St Louis invention, they were thought to have been created in the 1930s when a baker accidentally put too much sugar in. There are about 20 mouth-watering varieties, including chocolate, raspberry, key lime and amaretto – the original is the most popular, though. Visit explorestlouis.com
