In Tokyo, business begins in the office and ends with a hangover. Foreign executives visiting the capital are often expected to go out for food and drink with their clients once the meetings are wrapped up. And nothing creates hazard like a few jugs of lager, so here are a few pointers.
At the risk of stating the obvious, Japan is different. Foreigners are not always viewed in a way some would deem appropriate – All Nippon Airways recently caused a storm with an advert that caricatured foreigners as big nosed and blonde. Was it racist? Probably not, but the point is, international norms and Japanese attitudes are not always in line, and it is your job to adapt to the local culture.
As a guest, there is only a certain amount you need to do. Be nice, and the rest will take care of itself. There are ways to make a better impression though, including looking sharp. Lonny Chick, an American who has worked in Japan’s auto industry for 15 years, says: “Wear shades of black, grey or navy, with white or blue shirts.” How do you distinguish yourself? “With a good tie you can show your individuality a little.”
The society is not as strict as it once was, but attention is paid to presentation and manners. You will, to a degree, be judged. In many izakayas (pubs), shoes have to be taken off at the door, and drinking is done in socks. Have holes in them? Get ready for frowns from your new pals. Assessments that start in meeting rooms carry over to bars.
If there are new introductions, bow and have business cards ready, offering and accepting them with both hands, then placing them in front of you on the table after reading them carefully. If you don’t know how to use chopsticks, learn – you are likely to be complimented on your skills.
In conversation, avoid politics and religion, and don’t mention the war. Small talk offers a way out – keep pictures of your life back home on your smartphone, and show people. Many Japanese people are surprised at the size of houses in other countries and are interested in foreigners’ lifestyles.
As drinks draw to a close, you will often be pushed to carry on. In Japan, a nijikai (second party) and sanjikai (third party) are common. And, as the night gets older, the venue may get stranger. Often, this is simply a case of ending up in a small, smoke-filled bar that plays, for example, exclusively eighties hair metal or obscure jazz.
However, somet imes it can mean something a little more. Karaoke is the safe option, but other things can be more risky. Kyabakura (cabaret clubs) are sometimes final destinations for all-male groups. These harmless places, where hostesses tell men how cool they are to earn commission for drinks sold, can nevertheless spell trouble.
Snack bars, small watering holes that proffer whiskey and karaoke, operate in a legal black hole. These are the darker places of the Japanese nighttime. A simple “I have jet lag” often suffices as an excuse to escape.
If you must go, make sure you are accompanied by Japanese people. Stories of foreigners being hustled in strip joints, hostess bars and seedier places are ten-a-penny. The prime area for such shenanigans is red-light district Kabukicho, near Shinjuku station. Born out of the black markets that allowed residents to survive in the post-war period, it is a maze of mahjong bars (a board game often played for money) and other more questionable enterprises.
Legends about the Japanese salaryman are often exaggerated. However, some do end up in such a state that they are unconscious at the end of the night. As a guest, you have a responsibility. “Never get more drunk than the customer or potential partner,” Chick says.
As things start to wind down, offer to pay, but expect not to have to – the tab will normally be charged to Japanese companies.
Expect a surreal experience, wherever you end up. But don’t worry about people talking about it the next day – in Japan, nobody mentions what went on the night before, as doing so is impolite.
FIVE TOP IZAKAYAS
An izakaya in Shibuya
Tokyo may be home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world, but that doesn’t mean you need to break the bank for great food. Most nights, the city’s workers head out for beer and top-notch food at izakayas – Japanese restaurants that are the equivalent of British pubs.
Kaikaya
Tucked away in a Shibuya backstreet, Kaikaya is known for its quality fish – owner Teruyuki Tange sources ingredients from the daily catch at Sagami Bay. Its philosophy, to respect the waters and the food it gives us, is reflected in the homage-to-fishermen décor. The "course menu", comprising five or six dishes, costs little more than ¥5,000 ($49). Feeling adventurous? The fugu sashimi (slices of raw, hopefully not poisonous, blowfish) is served with chilli, radish and a ponzu sauce.
23-7 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya; kaikaya.com
Gonpachi
Known as the Kill Bill restaurant, legend has it that Japanese film director Takashi Miike brought Quentin Tarantino here, who subsequently modelled the eatery that appears at the end of his movie on it. Although Gonpachi markets itself as a soba (buckwheat noodles) restaurant, the beer flows in vast quantities, and tempura and yakitori (skewered chicken) come out of the kitchens far more often. Expect to pay about ¥,5,000 ($49) for a decent meal including drinks.
1F, 2F 1-13-11 Nishiazabu, Minato; gonpachi.jp
Ebisu Yokocho
As deflation gripped Japan in the mid-2000s, eateries faced a problem – people were going out less. Ebisu Yokocho came up with a novel solution – to cram lots of restaurants under one roof and work together to drive in customers. Yokocho draws in a fashionable crowd, attracted to the sheer number of chefs. At a meat stall and want fish? Ask a waitress and she’ll fetch it for you, cash on delivery. Dishes range from top-notch beef (about ¥2,000/$20) to simple fried foods (¥400/£2 per item).
1-7-4 Ebisu, Shibuya; ebisu-yokocho.com
Uokin HONTEN
This is the best place to eat in Shimbashi. The menu is focused on fish, with seven types of sashimi for ¥1,300 ($13) the biggest bargain, although there are broiled, fried and tempura options too. (Avoid the shirako if you are a conservative eater – it’s fish sperm.) Kirin beer and local brand Ozeno Yukidoke are served, and there is a generous sake menu. The good, reasonably priced food is popular with salarymen, but the rowdy atmosphere is more for partying than discussions.
Daini Fuji Building, 3-18-3, Shimbashi; uokingroup.jp
Toriyoshi
One of those places that makes you feel like you have stepped back in time, Toriyoshi specialises in skewers of yakitori. The interiors have a wooden beer hall look, while the prices mean you can order as much as you like. The fried chicken wings (¥500/$5) fly from the kitchens all night. Skewers cost about ¥200 ($2), while Kirin Brau Meister beer sells for ¥600 ($6). If you struggle with the menu, look to the table next to you – this is one of the friendliest places in town.
1-21-1 Minamicho, Kichijoji; sfpdining.jp/toriyoshi-shoten
A restaurant in Shimbashi district
In Tokyo, business begins in the office and ends with a hangover. Foreign executives visiting the capital are often expected to go out for food and drink with their clients once the meetings are wrapped up. And nothing creates hazard like a few jugs of lager, so here are a few pointers.
At the risk of stating the obvious, Japan is different. Foreigners are not always viewed in a way some would deem appropriate – All Nippon Airways recently caused a storm with an advert that caricatured foreigners as big nosed and blonde. Was it racist? Probably not, but the point is, international norms and Japanese attitudes are not always in line, and it is your job to adapt to the local culture.
As a guest, there is only a certain amount you need to do. Be nice, and the rest will take care of itself. There are ways to make a better impression though, including looking sharp. Lonny Chick, an American who has worked in Japan’s auto industry for 15 years, says: “Wear shades of black, grey or navy, with white or blue shirts.” How do you distinguish yourself? “With a good tie you can show your individuality a little.”
The society is not as strict as it once was, but attention is paid to presentation and manners. You will, to a degree, be judged. In many izakayas (pubs), shoes have to be taken off at the door, and drinking is done in socks. Have holes in them? Get ready for frowns from your new pals. Assessments that start in meeting rooms carry over to bars.
If there are new introductions, bow and have business cards ready, offering and accepting them with both hands, then placing them in front of you on the table after reading them carefully. If you don’t know how to use chopsticks, learn – you are likely to be complimented on your skills.
In conversation, avoid politics and religion, and don’t mention the war. Small talk offers a way out – keep pictures of your life back home on your smartphone, and show people. Many Japanese people are surprised at the size of houses in other countries and are interested in foreigners’ lifestyles.
As drinks draw to a close, you will often be pushed to carry on. In Japan, a nijikai (second party) and sanjikai (third party) are common. And, as the night gets older, the venue may get stranger. Often, this is simply a case of ending up in a small, smoke-filled bar that plays, for example, exclusively eighties hair metal or obscure jazz.
Kabukicho entertainment district in Shinjuku
However, sometimes it can mean something a little more. Karaoke is the safe option, but other things can be more risky. Kyabakura (cabaret clubs) are sometimes final destinations for all-male groups. These harmless places, where hostesses tell men how cool they are to earn commission for drinks sold, can nevertheless spell trouble.
Snack bars, small watering holes that proffer whiskey and karaoke, operate in a legal black hole. These are the darker places of the Japanese nighttime. A simple “I have jet lag” often suffices as an excuse to escape.
If you must go, make sure you are accompanied by Japanese people. Stories of foreigners being hustled in strip joints, hostess bars and seedier places are ten-a-penny. The prime area for such shenanigans is red-light district Kabukicho, near Shinjuku station. Born out of the black markets that allowed residents to survive in the post-war period, it is a maze of mahjong bars (a board game often played for money) and other more questionable enterprises.
Legends about the Japanese salaryman are often exaggerated. However, some do end up in such a state that they are unconscious at the end of the night. As a guest, you have a responsibility. “Never get more drunk than the customer or potential partner,” Chick says.
As things start to wind down, offer to pay, but expect not to have to – the tab will normally be charged to Japanese companies.
Expect a surreal experience, wherever you end up. But don’t worry about people talking about it the next day – in Japan, nobody mentions what went on the night before, as doing so is impolite.
KARAOKE TIME
Karaoke bars generally offer all-you-can-drink deals for an hour, with 30-minute extensions thereafter. All have instruments such as tambourines available on request. Here are four larger places to do karaoke, with tens of thousands of English songs, in Tokyo’s key business districts.
Karaoke Kan
If you have seen the film Lost in Translation, which follows a Western businessman (Bill Murray) around Tokyo, you’ll recognise rooms 601 and 602 in Shibuya’s Karaoke Kan parlour. Expect to pay around ¥2,500 ($25) per hour for a room, but look out for hustlers outside stores willing to offer discounts on quieter nights.
30-8 Udagawa; karaokekan.jp
Big Echo
Big Echo has more than 100 locations in Tokyo – this one, between Shimbashi station and the entrance to Ginza, has rooms for groups of two to 30 people so is large enough to guarantee space every night of the week. All-you-can-drink courses start at ¥1,600 ($16) per hour, and guitars are available on request.
νMiami Shimbashi Building
1-12-5; big-echo.jp
Pasela
This Roppongi venue offers karaoke and dinner in a Balinese setting – sort of. The Indonesian décor isn’t particularly authentic, but is unique in its own, Tokyo, way. It caters more for larger groups. Charges begin at ¥4,500 ($44) an hour including drinks. With 800,000 songs offered, it’s safe to say there are a few English numbers in there.
5-16-3 Roppongi; pasela.co.jp
Karaoke No Tetsujin
Part of the city’s sprawling Shinjuku Ward, Kabukicho is known for its host and hostess bars, but plenty of people head there for more salubrious purposes. Karaoke No Tetsujin has rooms for six to 30 people, and all-you-can-drink courses start from ¥1,900 ($19) per hour in the evening.
Daini Toa Building 1-21-1 Kabukicho; karatetsu.com
WHAT TO SING
Beginner
These three songs are good to warm up your Japanese audience, and easy on the vocal chords.
Ob-La-Di, Ob-La-Da – The Beatles
Or any Beatles number really. If people are joining in, Hey Jude is a good option.
Hungry Like the Wolf – Duran Duran
Evocative of the 1980s Bubble era, this song can be popular among Japanese businessmen.
Mr Roboto – Styx
The chorus includes “Domo arigato Mr Roboto” (“Thank you very much Mr Robot”) and is often met with bemusement and enthusiasm in Japan.
Advanced
Another hour is booked. Tanaka-san is clutching his drink, his tie wrapped around his head. It’s time for the more adventurous songs to come out.
Bohemian Rhapsody – Queen
A song that requires the efforts of others, but can be the highlight.
Sukiyaki – Kyu Sakamoto
You will need some Japanese for this. It became a global hit upon release in 1963 and everybody knows the lyrics. Manage to get this one right and you’ll amaze your drinking partners.
My Way – Frank Sinatra
The perfect way to end a night. Everyone knows it and it’s easy to sing. Badly.
Richard Smart
