The Business Traveller team provides a perceptive guide to Kuala Lumpur as experienced through the medium of the five senses
What makes a city like Kuala Lumpur really stand out from the metropolitan crowd? Discussions on the subject could go on indefinitely, but one possible answer is that it leaves its mark, ideally in a positive way, by touching one or all of the senses. Here we share some of the varied ways in which Kuala Lumpur has given each of us a great sensation.
HEARING
No Black Tie
Jazz music in Kuala Lumpur and No Black Tie (or “NBT” to its large fan base, which includes me) are simply synonymous. This is usually the only place mentioned when one asks where to go to hear some Coltrane, Hancock, or even the evergreen Correa.
Established in 1988 by US-trained classical pianist Evelyn Hii, this club-cum-Japanese restaurant and bar has seen Malaysia’s – and the region’s – top singers, musicians and literati parade their myriad talents on NBT’s intimate stage that is set in interiors marrying wood and glass. Guests can sit in either the lower or upper level.
The entrance fee to the club area depends on the performer, with prices beginning at RM$60 (US$19) including one drink. Consumables have to be paid for in cash, in order, so the staff will explain to you, that the band gets paid – a time-worn tradition is that bands get paid in cash at the end of each night.
The restaurant’s house speciality is soft-shell crab presented in a variety of ways – as a salad with Thousand Island dressing, wrapped in dry seaweed or served with cucumber and prawn roe, among others. Besides the à la carte menu, a monthly “Mini Kaiseki Menu” is available.
Contact details: 17 Jalan Mesui, off Jalan Nagasari, 50200 Kuala Lumpur; tel +60 3 2142 3737; www.noblacktie.com.my
Margie T Logarta
SIGHT
Kuala Lumpur Bird Park
Even though the peacock is the national bird of my home country (India), I have never seen one as closely as I did at the Kuala Lumpur Bird Park (admission RM48/US$15). It was only during my visit to the bird park that I discovered how shy peacocks actually are, despite their grand demeanour. For me, being that close to a peacock (which happens to be my favourite bird), is one of the many reasons that warrant visiting the park. Though this 84,529 sqm protected area is smaller than Singapore’s Jurong Bird Park, it is by no means less fascinating. The park is home to 3,000 birds of almost 200 species, most of which fly around freely and interact with visitors.
The park is split into four zones: Zone 1 and Zone 2 are the free-flight zones, where you’ll find all kinds of birds from the magnificent royal peacocks to flamingos, all living together in the same space. You will also find Brahminy Land in Zone 1, where a live eagle feeding show takes place.
Zone 3 is comprised of the Hornbill Park, which shines the spotlight on these large, gorgeous creatures that inhabit both the Malay Peninsula and Malaysian Borneo. Zone 4 offers more educational facilities, such as the amphitheatre, a nursery with egg incubators and a gallery and education centre. In Zone 4, you can also walk into the World of Parrots, a mini aviary designed for all kinds of parrots, including cockatoos and parakeets, where you have the opportunity to feed lories every day.
Even if you are not a bird person, such a colourful display of avians never ceases to fascinate. If anything, it’s at least a refreshing walk in the park.
Contact details: 920 Jalan Cenderawasih?Taman Tasik Perdana, 50480?Kuala Lumpur; tel +60 3 2272 1010; www.klbirdpark.com
Alisha Haridasani
Petronas Twin Towers
I love high places so whenever I am visiting a city that has a tall tower, I’ll try to make time to visit it. So it goes without saying that the first time I visited Kuala Lumpur, I had to make a trip to the Petronas Twin Towers. The most recognisable landmark of the city, each of these towers reaches a height of 452 metres above street level. The 88-storey buildings are the world’s tallest twin structures and are home to office buildings, conference halls, and the 14,000 sqm Suria KLCC mall. They are visible from most parts of the urban area. Designed by Argentinian-American architect Cesar Pelli, the flatplan and exterior of the complex were inspired by the geometric shapes found in Islamic architecture and symbols.
The two-storey Skybridge links the two towers on the 41st and 42nd floors. Instead of being connected to the towers, the bridge actually slides in and out of them to offset the movement caused by wind. It provides additional support to the whole structure and in case of a fire in one tower, those on the upper floors have an escape route to the unaffected tower.
Visitors are only allowed on the lower level of the bridge since the upper one is reserved for tenants. From 170 metres above ground, I enjoyed a commanding view of the most moneyed neighbourhoods of the city and the busy thoroughfare of Jalan Ampang.
A visit to the Skybridge and the observation deck on the 86th floor, where you will get to view an informative display and video about the construction of the towers and their environmentally friendly features, costs RM50 (US$16). Both facilities are open from 9am to 5pm, Tuesday through Sunday. On public holidays, including those that fall on a Monday, the facility welcomes visitors in the morning.
Contact details:Kuala Lumpur City Centre; tel +60 3 2051 5000; www.petronastwintowers.com
Reggie Ho
Forest Research Institute Malaysia (FRIM)
Coming from Australia I have seen some impressive “bush” as we like to call it, so I was doubly surprised by how much a visit to FRIM moved me. The sensation I felt strolling around this vast area is hard to put into words. FRIM is breathtaking, dramatic and stunning – at times I felt like Gulliver in a land of giants (trees), the power of nature on hyper-alert.
The 486-hectare tropical forest is abundant with options catering to all ages and activity levels, from a guided walk of varying skill levels, a bike ride along designated tracks or a canopy walk high in the trees, to more subdued fish ponds with a park-like ambience.
I opted for a guided walk (from RM80/US$25), something I can highly recommend as the guides are passionate about their working environment and are full of interesting facts and trivia that really help you to appreciate FRIM’s magic.
Other attractions include botanical gardens, a wetland area, Malay traditional houses, an ethno-botanic garden, an arboretum and silicified wood.
Be sure to stop by the large fishpond near the entrance to see if you can get a glimpse of the giant arowana, a freshwater fish that seems to respond well when you clap your hands. There are also picnic spots and a camping area for those with more time to spare.
Located only 16km from Kuala Lumpur, FRIM, is the perfect foil to the stress of city living or the hectic schedules of the business traveller.
Contact Details: 52109 Kepong, Selangor Darul Ehsan; tel +60 3 6279 7000; www.frim.gov.my
Vicki Williams
SMELL
Chinatown
Tea, teh, cha… call it what you like, but you will find it almost everywhere in KL, be it at the hawker centre where you can easily find the country’s favourite teh tarik, (literally meaning “pull tea”, that is a concoction of tea and milk with a deliciously frothy top), or traditional Chinese tea at any of innumerable Chinese restaurants. Tea has always been an eminent part of Malaysian tradition, equally important to each of the constituents of its melting pot of cultures.
One of my favourite places to indulge in a cup or two is Chinatown, because of the excellent variety available in one small area. In particular, floral tea is a delightful treat for the senses, and for me a must-try.
As you walk along Jalan Sultan, you are greeted by the aroma of tea at Purple Cane. This shop boasts a wide array of scented teas (starting from RM10/US$3 for 150 grams), including herbal tea, oolong and chrysanthemum, but probably the most captivating scent comes from the handcrafted Blooming Scented tea. Consisting of a heady mix of lily, rose, marigold, osmanthus, cornflower, chrysanthemum and lavender, its pleasant fragrance refreshes you in a way that lingers and is a treat for both the sense of smell and taste.
Another teahouse that boasts aromatic delights is Kean Guan Tea Merchants. It is mostly known for its herbal teas, but also has scented jasmine tea that is available in loose form, or a mini-ball form that is known as a Jasmine Pearl, made from green tea and jasmine flowers. The “magic” of the tea is a result of heating the tea to a specific temperature, then spreading it over overlapping layers of jasmine flowers, so that as it cools down, the tea absorbs the fragrance of jasmine. This scent is evocative of the temples of India and festive celebrations, when the intoxicating fragrance fills the air.
Contact Details: Purple Cane, 11 Jalan Sultan, Ground Floor, 50000 Kuala Lumpur; tel +60 3 2031 1877; www.purplecane.my; Kean Guan Tea Merchants 160 Jalan Petaling, 50000 Kuala Lumpur; tel +60 3 2078 5306; www.keanguan.com.my
Tiffany Sandrasageran
TASTE
Restoran Kin Kin
Visit this restaurant only when you have a lot of time because service here is notoriously slow and grumpy. People only come here for one dish: pan mee, a Hokkien-style noodle dish with minced pork (RM5.5/US$1.7 per bowl). The recipe here is without soup and, instead, served with dark soy sauce and a half-cooked egg. You break the egg and dress the noodles with the runny yolk, and there is the option to spice it up with the chilli flakes placed on every table. I waited 45 minutes for my serving, but in the end, I felt that the food made it worthwhile. The locals who shared my table, including a group of government workers who were taking advantage of their long Friday lunch hour to come here, seemed to agree. The noodles had the perfect al dente texture and the egg gave it another dimension. I added the chilli flakes sparingly as I didn’t want them to overwhelm my palate. The location is a little out of the way but I wouldn’t mind coming back again if I have time to spare – I will just bring my electronic tablet with me and watch a movie while waiting.
Contact details: 40 Jalan Dewan Sultan Sulaiman 1 (parallel to Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman), Chow Kit
Reggie Ho
Makan Kitchen
With six local cuisines (Malay, Chinese, Indian, Peranakan, Kristang and Iban) under one roof, Makan Kitchen is one of my favourite places for a taste of KL. The cuisines are presented in an open-kitchen format so you can see the chefs in action, with dishes served buffet style (from RM59/US$19) and speciality dishes prepared à la minute when ordered from the à la carte menu. Each cuisine area features interiors that reflect the cuisine’s origin, adding to the immersive ambience. Each dish is tempting in its own way and the produce is top quality.
Standout dishes include marinated roast duck Malaysian style – unlike Chinese style it is eaten without pancakes – and pansuh manuk, where chicken is both slowly cooked in and served in bamboo, creating a succulent and fragrant dish. For a heat hit, try the devil curry chicken or opt for a classic fish tikka. Also of note is the otak otak, a Nyonyan dish of spiced fish and prawn mousse infused with lemongrass and chilli wrapped in a banana leaf before being cooked on a griddle. Street foods such as satay, wok-fried noodles and laksa are also well represented.
I prefer savoury flavours over sweet so I normally finish the meal with a selection of fresh fruits, but sweet-tooths will delight in the extensive selection of desserts.
For those curious about the name, makan is the Malay word for food or eating, something that the Malaysians do with gusto. The popular restaurant is open from 6am until 10.30pm daily and seats 350 people; it features a number of semi-private and private rooms.
Contact Details: Doubletree by Hilton, The Intermark, 182 Jalan Tun Razak, 50400 Kuala Lumpur; tel +60 3 2172 7272; www.makan-kitchen.com
Vicki Williams
TOUCH
Spa Village
From the moment I stepped into the purpose-built Sensory Room, I knew this would be an unusual spa experience.
The 60-minute Sensory Exploration treatment (RM225/US$71) is the first of its kind in the region and is noticeably different in that it is designed to highlight each of the five senses, often in a unique way.
The first step is to write down any negative thoughts on a piece of paper, which is then placed in a small bowl of water.
The instructor then took me through a guided meditation that involved deep breathing followed by listening to music (and feeling sound vibrations) and gongs, and I was asked to listen to the music with my heart. I must admit that I did stifle a giggle or two during this part.
Next the sense of taste is stimulated by having to close your eyes while you taste bitter (gourd), sour (lemon) salty (salt) and sweet (dried fruit). I was asked to visualise the tastes. Between tasting each, an aromatic towel is pressed to the face followed by inhaling eucalyptus oil – I was asked to taste the smell. Lights gently changed colour in the ceiling for further sensory stimulation.
I was then given a superb head and neck massage, which made me cry a little – stress relief I imagine. A 25-minute foot and lower leg massage followed while lights twinkled, music played, aromas filled the air and floor vibrations were felt, adding to the sense of peace and relaxation.
The final part involved choosing a gemstone, holding it over my heart and making a wish (taking something positive with me), and when I glanced at the paper with the negative thoughts… it was blank. The treatment is designed to leave you fresh, rejuvenated and balanced, which is exactly how I felt. It had also removed the noticeable stress from my face and I looked several years younger.
Contact Details: 4th Floor, The Ritz-Carlton, 168 Jalan Imbi, 55100 Kuala Lumpur; tel +60 3 2782 9090; www.spavillage.com
Vicki Williams
