Discover thalasso spa treatments, luxury villas, ancient archaeological cities and off-road adventures.
Most people head north when it comes to Italy’s second largest island, tempted by the beaches, lively nightlife and the famed Costa Smeralda – a playground for the yachting elite. But the south is the perfect place to dodge the crowds and discover authentic delights.
The island’s main airport, Cagliari Elmas Airport (CAG) – also called Mario Mameli Airport – is located in the southern Sardinian capital of Cagliari. The city is studded with medieval architecture, cathedrals and museums, with the striking Castello fortress on a hilltop and wide streets near the marina lined with pretty purple jacaranda trees.
There’s plenty of restaurants, bars, shops and boutique hotels – head to Fenu for the best gelato in town, with inventive flavour combinations inspired by local produce (think: ricotta, honey and almonds) as well as vegan options. For an upmarket hotel near the historic centre, Palazzo Doglio offers 72 rooms, fine-dining Italian restaurant Osteria del Forte and a wellness centre with a spa pool and Turkish bath.
A 40-minute drive south of Cagliari lies the ancient city of Nora, dating back to 700BC. It’s an active archaeological site and must-visit destination for those with a thirst for history. The excavated ruins tell stories of trade and prosperity and it’s worth getting a tour guide to help bring the bustling, peace-loving Phoenician city to life, from the gossiping in the four public baths to the convivial plays in the amphitheatre (no gladiators here – just musicians and actors); and prosperous townhouses with preserved mosaic floors. It’s easy to see why early settlers chose this location too, with three bays fringing the lush rocky outcrop and offering blissful views in every direction.
Nearby is the 13th century town Pula, a popular holiday spot close to numerous beaches. Next month is the ideal time to visit, with the area transformed for the celebration of Saint Ephysius (1-4 May), the patron saint said to have protected the region from the deathly clutch of the plague in the 17th century. Locals adorn themselves in elaborate traditional dress, streets are carpeted in flowers, and decorated chariots pulled by cows are cheered on by spectators.
Forte Village
My destination was a further 15 minutes down the coast at Forte Village. ‘Village’ is a misnomer – this family resort complex is larger than the ancient city of Nora, with ten hotels, 21 restaurants, 14 bars, 80 luxury brands and every activity under the sun.
But while it might sound hectic, the leafy, lazy winding paths are more disturbed by lizards darting through shrubbery than other guests, and vast grounds offer a quiet and tranquil destination. The range of accommodation means there’s something for everyone. Families might choose Hotel Le Palme in the centre of the complex close to the action, while couples might prefer the more private Villa del Parco Hotel & Spa (a member of Leading Hotels of The World). I was very happy in one of the gorgeous Hotel Le Dune villas, steps from the beachfront, with a spacious double room and lounge, plus private garden courtyard.
The resort is arguably most famous for its thalassotherapy spa facilities. The ancient art of thalassotherapy can be traced back to Roman times – there’s evidence that the early residents of Nora were keen practitioners – and it relates to using the natural minerals in sea water, combined with different temperatures and pressures, for detoxifying and anti-inflammatory benefits.
The gorgeous facility at Forte Village cascades down a hillside, with six treatment pools beckoning, each one more lagoon-like and enticing than the last. The first pool was the strangest – frankly, it resembled a vat of cooking oil – but was warm and relaxing to float in and you could almost feel the minerals getting to work. The next pool was in a shaded chamber, with aloe and mint-scented water.
Each treatment pool has a recommended time limit, and you’re guided through the variety of jet streams, lagoons, hot and cold plunges, before ending in a lazy river with waterfalls and fountains. The experience takes around two hours to enjoy fully and repeat visits are encouraged. The spa also offers traditional massages and treatments.
Another highlight of Forte Village is the gastronomy, with 21 restaurants to choose from. Start with aperitifs at the Tiki Beach bar – a Polynesian paradise perched above the beach, with sushi snacks and fruity rum cocktails to whet your appetite.
For a dinner splurge, head to the Michelin-starred Heinz Beck restaurant. The multi-course fine-dining menu was among the best I’ve experienced, with creative attention to detail, a touch of theatricality and powerful punches of flavour – not to mention beautiful sea views as the sun set. For more casual bites, head to Ristorante Sardo for authentic Sardinian cuisine; chow down on enormous pizzas and a limitless salad bar at Pizzeria, or enjoy a gourmet hotel buffet at Cavalieri.
If the restaurant list gives you choice paralysis, you might not be able to handle the activities list. There’s tennis and padel courts, rock climbing, aerial yoga, go-karting, windsurfing and a gym. There’s a football academy for kids (run by professional coaches, with past coaches including Alvaro Arbeloa and Iker Casillas) and a high-performance biometric assessment for adults wanting to reach the next level of fitness. Then there’s boxing classes, fencing and dance studios.
New for 2024 is the Pickleball Academy. Children, meanwhile, can enjoy an enormous Kids Club, with Barbie and Mario-themed worlds, a circus academy and bowling alley. An amphitheatre at the centre of the resort also hosts nightly entertainment, with past guests including Anastasia and Andrea Bocelli. In August, it will host Sting.
Shepherds and jeeps
While you could literally spend a week never leaving the boundaries of the resort, the hotel also arranges exciting excursions for guests. This is how we found ourselves on the way to meet with Roberto Casula, a third-generation shepherd, to learn how to make the region’s famed Pecorino cheese.
The journey to get there wasn’t your typical day trip, as it included an off-road jeep experience into the Sulcis mountain range. We bumped along over unnervingly large potholes, but our driver seemed relaxed, cheerfully pointing out the wild olive trees and plants that produce the region’s famous mirto liqueur. At one point a family of deer came bounding down the mountain in front of us, disappearing down a ravine with impossible dexterity.
As gentle slopes became steep hairpin turns, the commentary unnervingly tailed off and the jeep’s engine whined in exertion as we crawled up the mountain trail. I allowed the stunning scenery to distract me from impending doom.
Finally, the twists and turns levelled out, and we emerged into a cool, pine forest plateau dotted with some picnic tables.
Roberto was waiting for us, along with his portable production facility – metal bucket, tank of gas, burner stove and wooden sticks – with which he was going to turn milk into cheese, right here in the forest.
He poured 20 litres of milk into the pail and began to heat it to 35 degrees. As the proud owner of 300 Arbus Black Sheep, a rare breed native to Sardinia, Roberto described his gruelling days, which involve milking each sheep by hand and looking after his flock according to time-tested family traditions.
Once at temperature, he added the rennet to start the curdling reaction, mixing with a wooden stick and whipping out the occasional fly with a grin. He then strained the mixture through plastic colanders, creating perfectly round mounds of freshly made Pecorino. This was transferred to a picnic table alongside a feast of Carignano wine, pane guttiau bread, chorizo and crackers. The flavour was mild (the longer cheese matures, the stronger it tastes), but delicious – and even more so given the idyllic setting. What better way to round off a Sardinian adventure?
