So where to start with Istanbul? I could opt for its “East meets West” geography or the “ancient cradle of civilisation” angle, but you will know all about that if you’ve picked up any travel article on the city in the last 10 years. So let’s explore a third facet of this intriguing city, that’s home to at least 13 million people, and in all likelihood a good deal more: it’s sheer unpredictability.
Admittedly, this sense of surprise comes from its mix of cultures, being at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, as well as its juxtaposition of ancient and modern – but these are timeless qualities. There are more profound changes. The city feels markedly different to when I was last here in the mid-90s. Thinking back, my abiding memory is of a place that was overcrowded and industrious; somewhere in my archives I have a picture of a man crossing the Bosphorus with an entire filing cabinet on his back. I didn’t enjoy it so much.
But new Istanbul, while just as crowded, is exuberant and diverse. With more restaurants and galleries, there’s more to take in, and you’ll need to prioritise your after-work time wisely. The clogged roads aside, it’s infrastructure isn’t that bad, with modern – and old – trams complemented by a metro, while hailing one of the yellow cabs is never a problem. Istanbul was recently short-listed, along with Tokyo and Madrid, to host the 2020 Olympics, but one shudders to think what the roads will look like in eight years’ time. A winning bid would require wholesale investment.
However, the fact it’s made the last three is symptomatic of its growing stature. The country’s strong growth, coupled with events across Europe, have given it a clear sheen of self-assurance and a feeling that it’s in charge of its own destiny. “Ten years ago, we wanted to join Europe – but now they need us more than we need them,” quipped my Bosphorus cruise guide.
Saturday afternoon on Istiklal Caddesi, the main drag in the city’s trendy Beyoglu district, isn’t for the faint-hearted. The last time I saw crowds this thick was in Oxford Street or central Manhattan. Street entertainment can be unpredictable in any city, but can anywhere match here? In the space of five minutes I’ve passed a clarinetist, saxophonist, recorder player, seen and heard many variations on the lute (single/group, traditional/electric) and witnessed a woman, dressed for a night at the opera, singing and tapping a tambourine – with operatic gestures, I should add – accompanied by an accordion player.
Wining and dining by the bay in Istanbul
Shopping is another surprise. Halfway down this bustling street is the 40-store Demiroren Istiklal, which contains a three-floor electronics shop called Saturn – a veritable planet of gadgets and appliances eclipsing anything I have seen in the Gulf (which isn’t exactly shy when it comes to retail). Even the multinational chains or large brands which are here seem outnumbered by a healthy presence of indigenous brands, which you can’t say about many places – in this mall, I only recognised Koton and Gap – and it’s reassuring to know there are still places left in the world where small shops can thrive.
Istanbul feels like a model in “glocalisation” – somewhat insular and outward-looking at the same time, a vast urban chameleon that’s comfortable in its European and Asian skin. I walked down a side street and saw bar after bar attended by Turkish people and Turkish musicians, in contrast to the tourist traps, like the Spice Bazaar, where you will find the whole world stepping on and off the guide buses. Nevizade Sok, just off Istiklal Caddesi, was a real eye-opener too, a linear passage packed with seafood restaurants which, again, seemed to be patronised mainly by locals.
But judging by the extraordinary number of rooftop satellite dishes, the Turks must like the outside world too – and it’s reciprocated. One media colleague told me there’s a real fervour for Turkish soap operas across the Arab world these days, as the country’s stepped into the spotlight following the uprisings in Syria and Egypt.
Of course the classical arts are still well represented. The Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, Turkey’s first private museum for modern and contemporary art exhibitions, was founded in 2004 and occupies an 8,000 sqm site on the shores of the Bosphorus. Apart from permanent and temporary exhibition galleries, a photography gallery, and spaces for educational and social programmes, the museum offers a cinema, restaurant, design store and extensive library.
The hospitality scene is flourishing too. In most cities you can only see the main sights by road or train but Istanbul, like London, has a major waterway cutting through it which gives you a novel perspective. In Istanbul: Memories and the City, Orhan Pamuk writes: “To be travelling through the middle of a city as great, historic and forlorn as Istanbul, and yet to feel the freedom of the open sea – that is the thrill of a trip through the Bosphorus.”
With its cruise ships, container vessels and pleasure craft darting this way and that, it’s a dynamic scene, in contrast to the numerous palaces and mansions – the yalis, that were built by the great Ottoman families – many of which have clearly seen better days. Property prices along this stretch remain astronomical though, ranging from anything between US$13 million and US$150 million.
Four Seasons Istanbul
Today, our 90-minute cruise is turning into one long hotel brand-spotting exercise, with the ornate Kempinski and Four Seasons hotels, right on the water, complemented by a host of other major operators (Ritz-Carlton, Conrad, InterContinental and Radisson Blu). A little further inland, the majestic Pera Palace, now under Jumeirah’s management, effortlessly combines traditional and modern. Arriving guests are given a sedate ride in its original lift, Europe’s second oldest after the Eiffel Tower, which was built in 1862.
Often we only read about history; here you are immersed in it, from the lift, to the black-and-white welcome movie, to the cases displaying old artefacts such as laundry lists. Room 101 is a museum within a museum, dedicated to President Atatürk, displaying everything from pyjamas to original newspaper cuttings (note it’s only open 10-11am and 3-4pm, but non-guests are welcome to view it). Yet the rooms have received the full Jumeirah treatment, with bedside iPod docks, luxury marble-shelf power showers and multi-channel flatscreen TVs, while retaining their strong sense of history and character.
A few minutes’ walk away, Rixos Pera Istanbul, the Rixos Group’s second hotel in the city, opened its doors in May, complete with 116 rooms and 21 suites, a spa, fitness centre and four à la carte restaurants. It’s also given an old building a new lease of life – it used to house the Royal Hotel which dated back to 1876. Elsewhere, luxury design property 8 Istanbul Suites – formerly Misafir Suites – has added 14 new rooms and seven older suites have been fully renovated, 14 of the suites containing hydro-massaging bathtubs. Finally, the leafy Etiler district has a striking new Le Méridien, the brand’s first in Turkey and the first new build in Europe since Starwood acquired the brand in 2005.
Live the city high life
The seagulls are squawking next to me; for a moment it’s easy to imagine I’m back in Exmouth in southwest England. The view is slightly different though – an unbridled 180-degree panorama of the city’s rooftops, topped off with the Bosphorus, Topkapi Palace and the Hagia Sophia mosque.
This top-floor apartment is a relatively new addition to The Hideaways Club’s City Collection and offers the perfect place to unwind in the heart of the city. A dining table and two loungers grace the outdoor terrace, and indoors it isn’t too shabby either, with three bedrooms – one up a winding wooden staircase – en suite bathrooms, complete with Molton Brown toiletries, a fully equipped kitchen, large flatscreen TV, sofa and dining table. An iPad, iPod and local mobile ready to use are also available.
It’s a two-minute walk from Istiklal Caddesi, meaning you can enjoy the pulsating heart of Istanbul and beat a hasty retreat once you’ve had enough. Such high-end apartments come at a price – and can’t be rented singularly – but are worth considering for high-net-worth travellers whose lives are always on the go.
Full share membership for the City Collection costs £120,000 (US$193,000) and associate half share is £65,000 (US$104,000) – but this capital is invested in the property company and represents the members’ investment. Full members receive access to any apartment in the global network 23 days a year, while associates receive 12 days a year. On top are annual cost contributions too, £5,300 (US$8,509) a year for full or £2,760 (US$4,431) for associate, which cover services, maintenance and insurance.
On the full membership, alongside the 23 apartment days a year, members have the right to “space available nights” which gives them access to available apartments on 30 days’ notice, for a fixed fee of £150 (US$241) a night; you’d be hard pushed to find one room in a five-star for that price.
Taking in the view
From the rooftop to the down-low, there are many ways to enjoy the spectacular vista of Istanbul while having a drink or a bite to eat.
Galata Konak Café
This restaurant has a rooftop that offers sweeping views of the city, including the historic Galata Tower after which it is named, as well as the Bosphorus and its famous bridge. The same operator also runs the outlet on top of the tower itself, but with a much less attractive environment (and the view there is also blocked by the ring-shape terrace where visitors congregate after they have paid 12 lira/US$6.7 each for the privilege). This building is well preserved with an antique elevator and ornate décor. The menu is a mixed bag, with everything from kebabs to steaks, pastas, chicken schnitzel and even a few Chinese recipes. Frankly, the service was erratic and the food nothing to write home about – and one can expect to pay around US$25 for lunch here – but the view and ambience are truly unbeatable. On Sunday, this place serves brunch from 10am to 2pm.
Bereketzade Mah. Hac Ali Sk. No 2, Kuledibi - Beyolu, Istanbul, tel +90 212 252 53 46, email [email protected]
Galata Konak Cafe
Fish sandwich stalls along Eminonu Pier
Many guidebooks and hotel concierges will point you to the Galata Bridge for seafood, and while it is quite a fascinating location with a great view of Golden Horn Bay, many restaurants there charge you at least US$30 for what might turn out to be a mediocre meal... and if you take the offerings from the fresh seafood trolley, you can expect to pay much more.
If you want to eat like a true local does, head to the Eminonu waterfront near the Spice Market and the New Mosque for the many fish sandwich stalls. You can have a meal here for about 5 lira (US$2.75) and enjoy the sea breeze and views of bobbing fishing boats. Seating is mostly plastic stools and wood benches, but you will find yourself forgiving that as the vibe of the place and the food are so enjoyable.
Rooftop Bar, Legacy Ottoman Hotel
Soon after the Four Seasons converted a former Turkish prison into a luxury address, this building, designed by renowned local architect Kemalettin Bey and constructed between 1911 and 1926 as an office building, was also converted into a hotel. The restoration has not destroyed the “aged” feel of the interiors and the antique elevator and Ottoman motifs offer a true sense of history. On the top floor is the Rooftop Bar with big windows looking out to the city, including an atmospheric view of the Blue Mosque. The décor of the bar itself is modest, perhaps deliberately so in order to truly capitalise on the view. The price of a gin and tonic here is about US$10, which is to be expected for a landmark hotel.
Hobyar Mahallesi Hamidiye Caddesi No 64, 34112 Sirkeci, Istanbul, tel +90 212 527 67 67, email [email protected]
Reggie Ho
