Densely populated Hong Kong has long suffered the problem of pollution, especially with its waters. Although public beaches are very accessible – from Central, the nearest one is only 20 to 30 minutes away by bus or taxi – the water quality often leaves a lot to be desired. Luckily, serene environments are still to be found on the peninsula of Sai Kung, regarded by some as the city’s “back garden”.
This vast area includes Sai Kung Town (which has quite a cosmopolitan dining scene), Clear Water Bay (home to The Hong Kong University of Science and Technology), many villages and 70 outlying islands such as Kau Sai Chau where there is a public golf course. It totals more than 100sqkm of land, much of which is reserved as country park.
Sai Kung is a favourite area for hiking and island hopping among the city’s nature lovers. One of the most popular routes is Stage 2 of the MacLehose Trail that leads to Ham Tin Wan and Tai Long Wan on the eastern shore.
Most people choose to start at Pak Tam Au, reachable by number 94 bus from Sai Kung Town. It is an easy stop to miss for those visiting for the first time, but on weekends, one only needs to follow the hordes of hikers who disembark here. You may also get off at the Wong Shek Pier terminus and pay one of the locals to take you to Chek Keng village by a motorboat. From there, it’s two more hours up and down the hill to reach the eastern coastline.
But do try to walk from Pak Tam Au to Chek Leng. The mostly downhill journey – one to two hours depending on how fast you walk – takes in the views of Long Harbour and Grass Island, and feels like a world away from the rest of Hong Kong.
As a rule of thumb, you want to make sure that you bring along enough water and light food when going on a hike. If you do find yourself running low on supplies, though, the entrepreneurial villagers in Chek Keng often stock up on bottled water, soft drinks and snacks for sale. These make-shift stores are mostly only open on weekends, however.
After trekking another hill you will come across more houses – you have reached Tai Long Wan Village (not to be confused with another commune of the same name south of Hong Kong Island). The first beach that you will see is Tai Long Wan, which translates to "Big Wave Bay" in Cantonese. It is aptly named. While windsurfers understandably love the water here, it is definitely too choppy for a swim. Nevertheless, standing on the shore looking out to the horizon, one cannot help but be mesmerised by the sheer force of nature.
Ten to 15 minutes walk further and you will find Ham Tin Wan, where the sea is much calmer and many come here to swim. But do so at your own risk, as it is not a gazetted beach and there are no lifeguards.
Along the beach here, you will find the rustic On Kee Store (+852 2328 2262) offering lockers for rent, beach essentials and cooked dishes such as fried rice and noodles and calamari. Cold beer is supplied in abundance. Don’t be surprised to hear conversations in English or even French, as expatriate communities in the city have long seen this place as their favourite weekend getaway.
It is a little piece of paradise, in a big cosmopolitan city.
