Vivian Liu revisits one of the last of the world's remaining Shangri-las and finds that it's a tough job keeping globalisation at bay.

The monk seemed so absorbed in his phone conversation that he had no clue I was snapping away at him. I wondered who he was talking to so intensely. The country’s religious head? Mum? That was the first thing I noticed during my recent, second visit to Bhutan. The Land of the Thunder Dragon has come a long way since I journeyed there three years ago, not bad for a country which introduced television only in 1999 and mobile phones in 2004. In fact, a second network provider has just come onboard. Now mobile phones are everywhere.

The second thing I observed is that no one gawks at me anymore. I am quite certain it was because the locals are now more used to seeing foreigners rather than the fact that this time, I was bundled up to my chin in a pashmina instead of sporting my usual cleavage-revealing tops. What’s more, many are dressed like us, in sweatshirts and jeans instead of traditional ghos and kiras. Then, it dawned on me when I spotted “Pepe Jeans London” right smack in the centre of the capital, Thimphu.

Much has changed, indeed, in this “last Shangri-la”. Tourist arrivals have more than doubled, from 9,000 in 2004 to 21,000 in 2007. National carrier Druk Air plans to acquire another Airbus A319, hopefully by 2010 to accommodate the increase. There are also talks by local businessmen to introduce domestic flights between Paro and Bumthang, a remote and picturesque region in central Bhutan. Standard and luxury category hotels are sprouting up everywhere, with better trained staff to meet the higher Western service standards.

Overall food quality has also improved. The Bhutanese love to overdose on salt but have eased up on the shaker for the blood pressure-conscious foreigners. There were meals I had, especially at Uma Paro, which were so decadent that I had forgotten I was in such a remote part of the world.

The Bhutanese, especially the younger generation, have also become less shy and more inquisitive towards foreigners. The school kids I met outside Paro Dzong bombarded me with questions, including where I came from, whether I liked Bhutan, then easing into whether I might have some chocolate on me. Then, the naughty little monks in the Dzong classrooms kept waving for me to sit in front of them and to shake their hand. I was even shot at by two playful Robin Hood wannabes at a remote village in Phojikha Valley. I certainly do not recall encountering such impish forwardness three years ago.

On March 24, Bhutan held its first democratic election with a landslide victory by Druk Phuensum Tshogpa Party, which garnered 45 out of 47 seats in parliament. It was by the 4th King’s decree that Bhutan be given the autonomy to determine its fate. Many locals I spoke to expressed much scepticism of this radical change and uncertainty as to which direction the new government will turn. Only time will tell.

On the tourism front, new hotels will continue to shoot up. There are talks that the minimum daily fee of US$200 per person will rise to US$250 by 2009. And with increased outside influence, Bhutan is modernising – the Thunder Dragon is crouching in preparation for that great leap. It is definitely hidden no more.

On this trip I visited the beautiful and secluded “Hidden Valley” of Phobjikha, where the endangered black-neck cranes fly annually between November and February to escape Tibet’s harsh winters. To protect their habitat, no electricity is currently available in this region – interesting for a city dweller like me – but there are plans already in the pipeline to change that.

But for now, Bhutan remains an absolutely amazing and magical sanctuary to explore. And I am happy to report that the country’s only traffic light still dons a uniform and beret.

FACT FILE

• Getting there: Druk Air (Royal Bhutan Airlines) flies direct to Paro from Bangkok via various Indian cities (from US$800) and from New Delhi via Kathmand (from US$700).
  
  
• Where to stay: In the luxury category, the fabulous food at the chic Uma Paro alone is a great reason to stay. Zhiwa Ling, which opened three years ago in Paro and the newest kid on the block, Taj Tashi in Thimphu, both resemble magnificent Bhutanese dzongs (fortresses). But once inside, you will be blown away by their luxurious and spacious suites. For those with money to burn, you now have five Amankoras to choose from.
  New standard-category local hotels are challenging the older ones to upgrade. In Thimphu, Kisa Hotel will open by September and Bhutan Suites by early 2009. The eight-room Village Lodge, built like a farmhouse and located in a tiny village within Paro, is a unique new concept, which provides guests with authentic village life experience. Meals are made with organic vegetables grown just outside its doorstep. Guests can participate with the farmers during harvest season and even pick their own vegetables for dinner. Also included is a dinner at the neighbours’ farmhouse.
  
  
• Climate: The climate in Bhutan varies widely, having temperatures that go above 40°C in the south while being temperate at its northern tip. It’s best to travel during the spring months of March to June when it’s generally warm and clear at 16ºC on average.