Features

Ningbo: Coastal charisma

31 Mar 2014 by Clement Huang
Located on the southern shore of Hangzhou Bay in northeast Zhejiang province, some 135 miles south of Shanghai, the coastal city of Ningbo is emerging as a dynamic city of commerce and tourism, and an increasingly coveted MICE destination. Historically renowned as a centre of manufacturing and shipping – it was one of the five Chinese treaty ports opened by the Treaty of Nanjing at the end of the first opium war between Britain and China in 1842 – Ningbo’s riverside and downtown parklands have been gentrified in recent years, and it has raised its profile as a modern city of business and technology. Investors are attracted by the relative affluence of its population, and a forward-thinking approach to economic development. In 2012, Ningbo’s GDP reached RMB652.47 billion (US$106.32 billion), with GDP per capita at a relatively high US$13,540. A strong investment drive in recent years has created a more international feel, enhanced by its relations with 13 sister cities worldwide, including Auckland (New Zealand), Florence (Italy), Nottingham (UK), Aachen (Germany) and Santos (Brazil). Ningbo translates as “Calm Waves”, and as its name implies the city’s history is connected to water. The original settlement was built around Sanjiang Kou, the confluence of three broad rivers: the Yong, Fenghua and Yuyao, which flow into the East China Sea. This area now forms the heart of modern Ningbo and is attractively and landscaped with gardens and riverside boardwalks. The former treaty port boasts one of China’s deepest natural ports, and handled 100 million tonnes of cargo in the third quarter of 2013, placing it among the world’s top 10 busiest commercial shipping centres. Ningbo is also the access point for the Zhoushan archipelago of islands, including the famous Buddhist retreat of Putuoshan. The islands are famous for their seafood, and a popular weekend destination for lunching Ningbonese and city dwellers from Shanghai, Hangzhou and neighbouring Fujian province. Continuing the aquatic theme, a national ocean wetlands park is being created around the deserted coastline of Ninghai just outside Ningbo. Back in the city, the government has made innovation the focal point of Ningbo’s future economic growth, and it has been chosen as one of 15 cities to participate in a pilot “smart city” construction programme, initiated by China and the European Union. Established in 2004, the University of Nottingham campus in Ningbo became the first Sino-foreign university to open in China, and is planning to invest £25 million (US$42 million) in a new marine research centre. Just outside the city, the Nordic Innovation Center China (NICC) – the first of its kind in Asia – is a government-supported hub that promotes the development of Nordic high-tech companies in China.   First Impression Opened in 1992, the previously small and unprepossessing Ningbo Lishe International Airport is undergoing a significant expansion that will result in three terminals and three runways and a significant annual capacity upgrade by 2020. Unlike many cities in China, the airport is relatively close (around seven miles) to downtown and a cab ride between the two points would cost about RMB50 (US$8.1). High-speed rail has revolutionised access to Ningbo, slashing the journey time to/from Shanghai to two hours (tickets from RMB146.5/US$23.8), and just one hour to/from the Zhejiang provincial capital, Hangzhou (tickets from RMB RMB71/US$11.5). Most fast trains arrive at Ningbo East station, while the cavernous and architecturally arresting new Ningbo South railway opened earlier this year closer to the city centre.   Orientation Located near the midpoint of China’s eastern coastline, Ningbo is easy to access, and navigating its total urban area of 2,416 square kilometres – which houses a population registered as 5.8 million at the end of 2012 – is relatively straightforward. Taxis are easy to hail except during rush hours and rain showers, while the first line of Ningbo’s new metro network, the Ningbo Rail Transit System, is expected to open this year. However, the bus system is best avoided unless you can read Chinese characters and decipher the rather confusing route map. Ningbo is divided into six main districts: Haishu, Jiangdong, Jiangbei, Zhenhai, Beilun and Yinzhou. Most of the hotels are located around the Sanjiang Kou area, Tianyi Square and near Moon Lake, while several bars and restaurants are clustered around the revamped streets behind the old Bund. Built during the late 19th century by the city’s foreign occupiers, the Ningbo Bund overlooks the Yong River. Much of it has since been redeveloped, although some vestiges of history remain and the area is worth exploring on foot, particularly the fine Catholic church built by Portuguese traders in the 17th century, and the old post office, whose arched frontage has been converted into a restaurant. The redeveloped Tianyi Square is the city’s heartbeat. Here, myriad shops, restaurants and hotels frame the large open piazza, which feature giant HDTV screens and a choreographed evening fountain show. Across town, behind the old yellow-walled Drum Tower is Zhongshan Park, where locals undertake early morning walks and tai chi amid its landscaped rockeries, pagodas, ponds and mini-temples.   What to Do Ningbo Museum of Art & Ningbo History Museum These two contrasting but intriguing museums were both designed by 2012 Pritzker Prize winning architect Wang Shu, the only Chinese national to win the world’s top prize in architecture. Located on the modernised Bund, the wood-panelled Ningbo Museum of Art opened in 2005 in a converted port authority building. It showcases art and photography from emerging local artists, and established names from across Asia. Described by the 2012 Pritzker Prize award committee as “one of those unique buildings that while striking in photos is even more moving when experienced,” the Ningbo History Museum resembles an ancient hillside fortress. It merits a visit to view a magnificent work of modern architectural art. Open 9am-5pm Tue to Sun, admission RMB10 (US$1.6); 1000 Shounan Middle Street, Yinzhou; tel: +86 574 8281 5533; www.nbmuseum.cn and http://eng.nma.org.cn  Putuoshan Island Part of the Zhoushan archipelago, the stunning beaches, Buddhist temples and famous seafood restaurants (with a meal averaging about RMB100/US$16.3 per head) of Putuoshan can be accessed via road or ferry from Ningbo, and both routes take around 2-3 hours. Putuoshan is one of China’s four sacred Buddhist mountains, and is a popular pilgrimage site. The verdant, undulating interior is perfect for hiking and cycling and affords fine views over the photogenic coastline. The island is not huge, but a day trip may not be enough to take in all the sights, so staying overnight at the sea-facing Landison Putuoshan Resort Zhoushan (www.landisonhotels.com) is worth considering.   Where to Eat Shipu Grand Restaurant Ningbo food is referred to as Yong cuisine, and features a vast selection of braised, stewed, fried and steamed seafood dishes. A city institution, Shipu Grand Restaurant is packed each night with locals tucking into its signature white shrimp soup and yellow croaker in soy sauce. (Appetisers start from RMB20/US$3.3 and seafood dishes to share from RMB200/US$32.6). Centre of Tianyi Square; tel: +86 574 8727 1777 Vegetarian Lifestyle (Zao Zi Shu) Delicious meat-free Chinese dishes served in a welcoming environment. The large menu includes a Sichuan mapo doufu to fried noodle and rich dishes and mock meat versions of local favourites. (Cold appetisers start from RMB20/US$3.3 and veg-based mains from RMB20/US$3.3). Location: 2/F, 16 Liuting Jie, Haishu District; tel: +86 574 8730 1333   Where to Stay Shangri-La Ningbo Situated on the riverbank in the heart of the city, this popular business hotel offers 563 rooms and suites with fine views from the upper floors and Horizon Club lounge. Dining options include the Shang Palace Chinese restaurant, Lobster Bar and Grill and the all-day Yi Café. Three levels of extensive conference and banquet facilities include a 2,000 sqm grand ballroom, plus six other ballrooms and several meeting rooms. (A club room starts from RMB1,218/US$198.2 a night with breakfast.) www.shangri-la.com/ningbo The Westin Ningbo  This highly contemporary 310-room hotel boasts a good central location steps away from Tianyi Square. Dining options include Five Sen5es for classic Cantonese and Huaiyang dishes and modern Japanese dining at Mai. An impressive suite of 22 meeting and function spaces includes a 1,600 sqm ballroom. There’s also a Westin Executive Club Lounge, Heavenly Spa by Westin and a large fitness centre. (A club room starts from RMB949/US$154.4 a night with breakfast.) www.starwoodhotels.com/westin Park Hyatt Ningbo Resort and Spa Located outside of the city, Park Hyatt’s first China resort resides on the shores of Dongqian Lake, and is an attractive location for upscale MICE events. Surrounded by terraced plantations growing the region’s famous white tea, the 236 room and villas resort yields fine views of Mount Fuquan. Dining options include Seafood House serving Zhejiang dishes, while chic cocktail lounge Red, which is housed in a 700-year-old building, hosts live music. (A club room starts from RMB1,300/US$211.5 a night with breakfast.) www.ningbo.park.hyatt.com Langham Place Ningbo Culture Plaza This modern new addition to the Ningbo hotel scene is decorated with local artworks and offers 143 contemporary guestrooms and suites, plus a spa and fitness centre. Fine dining includes Cantonese delicacies and local specialities at Ming Court, while The Place serves Asian and Western cuisines. Meeting facilities include an 820 sqm ballroom and three multi-purpose meeting rooms. (A club room starts from RMB1,300/US$211.5 a night with breakfast.) www.ningbo.langhamplacehotels.com   Where to Shop Heyi Avenue Shopping Center If you’ve forgotten to pack essentials or simply want to shop for luxury brands, head to Ningbo’s most upscale shopping mall, where you’ll find Gucci, Hermes and Christian Dior. If a post-shopping pint is required, pull up a chair at the Munich Beer House inside the mall (A pint of beer starts from RMB50/US$8.1). 78 Heyi Road, Haishu district   Where to Unwind Tianyi Pavilion Located near the tranquil Moon Lake, China’s oldest private library is set in a series of wing-tipped pavilions dotted across beautifully landscaped gardens. The tranquil walled estate features an impressive extensive collection of ancient books, stone tablets, printing tools and calligraphy works compiled by celebrated 16th century Ningbo scholar Fan Qin. It’s a peaceful spot to spend a couple of hours surrounded by moon gates, stone sculptures and sunken ponds. (Entry fee RMB30/US$4.9)
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