1 Chinese Junk Temple (Boat Temple)
Built during the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767), Wat Yannawa – its Thai name – is rarely visited by tourists but well patronised by the locals. The sounds of monks chanting from the prayer and meeting hall beside the shrine can be heard throughout the day. There is a healing centre on the premises.
Opening hours: Round-the-clock.
How to get there: A short stroll from the Taksin Bridge BTS Skytrain station. Be sure to walk away from the Shangri-La Hotel to reach it.
2 People Born in the Year of the Pig Shrine (Saha Chat)
You must cross a small bridge to get to this memorial to people born in the Year of the Pig, where an altar featuring a cast-iron porcine replica is festooned with ropes of (faux) pearls. It was built in 1911 by Queen Saovabha, one of the 92 wives of King Rama V (Chulalongkorn, who modernised Siam/Thailand), who was herself born in the Year of the Pig. The memorial was spruced up and improved in 1913 to mark her 50th birthday, designed by the younger brother of her husband, Prince Naris, also a Pig person.
Opening hours: As this is located out in the open, along Klong Lord, the shrine can be visited any time.
How to get there: Take a taxi from MTR Hua Lamphong to get to Wat Ratchabophit on Atsadang Road. Once there, find Pi Kun (Pig Bridge) and cross to see the shrine on the right side.
3 Kim Po Boiled Rice Soup Restaurant
The same family has been ladling out this lip-smacking delicacy for three generations, but only for dinner. Into the coriander-flavoured broth with rice goes a choice of butter fish, garoupa, squid, shrimp, oyster or a mix of any or all, and it can be spicy or non-spicy. The combination may look simple, but it’s comfort food for both the “hi-so” (high society) and the masses, judging by the range of attire we observed during our visit, as well as the snazzy vehicles parked along the kerb. Besides serving a never-ending stream of customers, the owners make good money by catering for parties and wakes.
Opening hours: Open only for dinner, from 5pm to midnight.
How to get there: Take a taxi to Chatrium Hotel Riverside Bangkok at 28 Charoen Krung Soi 70 and cross the road to the well-lit establishment. Avoid the peak hours of 6.30pm-9pm as the place fills up fast then, although diners don’t tend to linger as the lack of air-con makes for a humid setting. Prices from THB80-300 (US$2.55-$9.56) for a bowl with different ingredients.
4 Roast Chicken Restaurant (Kai Yang Bo Raan)
A favourite of Thai film and pop music celebrities, judging by the number of photographs lining the walls. Grilled pork, fishcakes and catfish are also on the menu. The papaya salad is freshly made and whets the appetite for the feast to come.
Opening hours: Lunch and dinner hours.
How to get there: Exiting the Tiger God Shrine, turn right and after a few steps you’ll see a stall with chicken in skewers waiting their turn at the grill.
5 Tiger God Shrine (Chao Por Seua)
This Taoist temple, built in 1870 by the Chinese community in this area of Rattanakosin, also draws Thai Buddhists. It is, in fact, considered one of the top places of worship in the city. On the third day of the third lunar month, thousands flock to the shrine to mark the Tiger God’s birthday and ask for his blessing to receive good fortune and protection against evil forces. Offerings of pork, rice and eggs are left in supplication. Couples who are keen to have children offer “sugar tigers” sold there.
Opening hours: 8am-4pm; take photos of worshippers with caution as the temple wardens frown on such activity.
How to get there: Take a taxi to Tanao Road in Khao San, Rattanakosin – a backpacker’s magnet for its cheap accommodation.
6 Siraraj Forensics Museum
Try not to visit this creepy attraction (yes, there was a sizeable crowd the Saturday morning we visited) before lunch, or risk losing your appetite for those yummy Thai specialities you were lusting after. The results of accidents of all types – machine crushings, car collisions, hand grenade explosions and the like – are neatly displayed in formaldehyde-filled glass containers. Dead babies seem to be in plenty, with several pairs of Siamese twins – Thailand was the first place where these abnormal births were discovered by the medical world – on exhibit, including a dissection of their little internal organs.
But what everyone comes to see is the upright cadaver of Si Quey, the infamous Thai serial child killer, who’s preserved for all to gawk at in what looks like a telephone booth. Photo taking should be done on the sly because the lone security guard is instructed to swat offenders away if he catches them doing this forbidden act. Be warned, he’s quite assiduous in doing so.
If not in a rush, sign the greeters’ book that wishes His Majesty King Bhumibol health and long life. The popular royal has taken up residence in Siraraj Hospital since 2009 due to a variety of ailments, and the facility has become the de facto Royal Palace.
Opening hours: Monday to Saturday, 9am-4pm, entry fee THB40 (US$1.27).
How to get there: The fastest way is to take a taxi from your hotel – from the Grand Hyatt on Ploenchit, it costs about THB100 (US$3.18). If you have time then take the Express Boat down the Chao Phraya River and get off at the Siraraj Hospital Pier, asking directions from there.
7 Penis Shrine (Chao Mae Tuptim)
While not something the Tourism Authority of Thailand would tout on its website, this strange sanctuary attracts visitors for very serious reasons – contrary to the snide comments these objects of worship may elicit. The lingams (phallic symbols) that pepper this small but significant corner of the Nailert Park gardens stand for fertility, and have multiplied over the years due to the offerings of hopeful women who prayed before the resident deity and returned as grateful mothers bearing more large wooden penises to adorn the spirit house and various crevices of the surrounding banyan trees that provide pleasant shade.
Opening hours: None apply.
How to get there: In the grounds behind the Swissotel Nailert Park Hotel, 2 Wireless Road, Pathumwan. From the Ploenchit BTS station, it’s a bit of a walk.
