Feeling tired and out of shape? A few clicks on the mouse can take you to a vacation that is both relaxing and active, Alison Smith reports
Lines of swell marched toward us in ever-growing height on the horizon, and my heart raced faster as I paddled farther out to sea and felt the surge of the ocean’s power below the surfboard.
Long, rideable walls of surf were forming as the swell hit deep coral reef in an atoll several hours’ boat ride south of the Maldives’ capital, Malé. The Gurahali – our floating home for the next ten days – was anchored within view and sat serenely in calmer waters off a palm-fringed “workers” island where Maldivians were busy building boats.
The shout came from our guide in the water – “Set!” – and with renewed energy we paddled hard to avoid thunderous whitewash breaking in front of us. An explosive sound of fast-travelling swell hitting the reef and quiet calm resumed.
Of the original seven surfers in the water only three of us – and the guide – had made it through. The others were driven back, caught up in the whitewash; they were picked up by the jet ski and made their way to the dhoni (a Maldivian traditional boat), one returning with a fresh contact lens and the others sitting this session out from the safety of the boat.
Bubbles crackled and popped on the ocean surface as the rest of us caught our breath and grinned. I would wait for the next set and find the courage to go for it.
Professional help
When it comes to get-fit holidays, there are many companies offering minimal planning on your part and plenty of action when you get there. Rock climbing, kitesurfing, kayaking and cycling are among the options, and all will give you a full body workout in some of the most beautiful landscapes that nature has to offer.
For me, however, it’s surfing every time. It provides exercise in stunning natural settings – usually located off the beaten track – and you can fill your days with other activities when the surf’s not up.
I booked my surf trip with Tropicsurf from Noosa, Australia. It was founded by professional surf coach Ross Phillips, who spends most of his year coaching in tropical waters or searching for new, completely un-surfed waves that are safe for surfers of medium ability.
Since surf travel can take a lot of research and planning, packaged surf trips allow you to tap into the local knowledge of professional guides who’ll deliver you to less crowded waves and provide important safety information about the conditions and set-up. Tropicsurf’s destinations include Indonesia, Morocco, Africa, Australia, the Pacific islands and even Easter Island.
Options on the website helped me choose depending on the type of accommodation – boat or resort – surfing level on a scale of one to ten, and any particular skills sought (such as tube riding or stand-up paddleboard riding).
I chose the Maldives, well known as a diving paradise but less so for its waves. For divers the water is at its clearest from November to April, but the islands are less prone to swell at this time. As I paddled through 26?C water in the month of October, the reef and brightly hued fish were clearly visible below and it felt as though I was looking through shimmering glass.
Flight to paradise
Arriving at Malé Airport gives an immediate sense of the vastness of the Indian Ocean and fragility of this archipelago of islands that barely skim above its surface. No island is more than two metres above sea level, and the bungalows at resorts are tastefully designed to blend in with the lush palm vegetation.
The 26 atolls of the Maldives cover roughly 90,000 sq km of sea, so many destinations within the country require a ride on the seaplane, which only operates during the day. Many flights, however, touch down in Malé at night so if your resort is too far to travel to by boat, an overnight in Malé is required. Many choose the Hulhule Island Hotel five minutes’ ferry ride from the airport.
The next morning I returned by ferry to the airport island to catch a seaplane with the eight other guests who’d be my companions for the next ten days. Our first introduction came at the private departure lounge of Maldivian Air Taxi, and by the time we boarded the seaplane, we were swapping cameras to take photos of each other and laughing excitedly as the engines roared into action.
Maldivian islands appeared like dots and teardrops on a canvas of blue from the air, some islands surrounded by the lighter blue of shallow lagoons and others rising from the deep trenches. After about 45 minutes our plane banked sharply and we saw the Gurahali, anchored off a small island where swell lines wrapped around its coral fringes.
Of the eight guests aboard, three were wives who had hardly surfed at all and they were given a beginner’s lesson in the lagoon with our two guides, both also qualified coaches. From then on when the surf was too big, the women would glide around on stand-up paddleboards (SUPs) and get a bird’s-eye view of the marine life or join us on longboards when conditions were small and safe.
Ride the wave
After our first surf and SUP session on the first day we were swimming by the dhoni when the captain pointed excitedly and told us he’d seen a whale shark. Without hesitation we jammed on the masks he threw to us and swam to marvel at the giant creature up close. This docile, plankton-eating shark – the world’s biggest fish – would have been more interested in nibbling on a piece of lettuce tossed from our boat than having a go at me, but swimming with sharks made for a great vacation story for friends at home.
The SUPs turned out to be a great way to spot marine life. Every evening we’d recall the day’s activities and those on the SUPs had a story of manta rays, dolphins or other marine life spotted from the board.
On smaller wave days, the beginner surfers joined us with a surf guide on the jet ski and another pushing them into small waves. For an intermediate surfer like me, the waves ranged from fun mal (malibu longboard) riding to exhilarating without being nerve-wracking – certainly helped by having coaches around to give some tips.
Each morning began with the sound of the Gurahali engine revving up as we motored to the nearest good surf spot. There was time for a fresh coffee and fruit before catching the first waves, and this was followed by a welcome hot breakfast of eggs, toast, cereal, juices and more coffee, then down time and yoga on the boat before another surf and lunch.
The days rolled by effortlessly; we crammed as much surfing in on as many uncrowded waves as the body could physically handle, punctuated by snorkelling and the occasional land visit to see local village life or wander meditatively on a deserted island.
With all this activity, nourishing food was not only something we looked forward to each day but vital for keeping up energy levels. Our Maldivian chef served seafood curry and traditional coconut and tuna dishes, while a second (five-star) chef from Noosa, Australia, created lunch menus of feta salad, herb prawns, bread and dips, steak sandwiches, salads, fries and smoothies, and dinners of sashimi, curry, seared tuna and crème brûlée.
At the end of our trip, we motored back from the more remote surfing locations to anchor overnight off the Four Seasons Kuda Huraa, which felt like the big city compared to the remote islands from where we’d come. The next morning it was a short speedboat ride back to the airport before reluctantly leaving a fresh swell behind for some other lucky surfers to enjoy.
An outer atoll luxury guided surf charter with private seaplane starts from US$6,500 per person for seven nights. www.tropicsurf.net
Other fitness holidays to consider
Rock climbing, sea kayaking and hiking in Krabi, Thailand
Rayavadee in Krabi, Thailand offers a range of land and sea excursions from the resort. A full-day private course of rock climbing in the Railay Bay area with routes to challenge all levels costs THB4,500 (US$146) for one person or THB5,500 (US$178) for two. Combine this activity with a sea kayak the next day in nearby Ta Lane with its lagoons, steep cliffs and mangroves (THB12,800/US$415 for two) and follow up with a 7km nature hike up a mountainside at Mu Ko Phi Phi National Park (THB8,500/US$275 for two). Spend a couple more days taking it easier with activities like a village visit by boat and elephant riding (THB1,900/US$61).
www.rayavadee.com
Horse trekking, walking or cycling in New Zealand
The Otago Central Rail Trail takes you on a cycling or walking adventure through 150km of some of New Zealand’s most memorable scenery and awe-inspiring gold mining history. The company allows you to book easily by yourself and hire gear. Or you can cycle the Rail Trail in four days from US$1,798 per couple with Central Otago … First Class, and stay in beautifully restored 19th and early 20th century heritage accommodation. Start with a tour of Central Otago Pinot Noir vineyards or a Clutha River Cruise and finish with a trip on the Taieri Gorge Railway to Dunedin – “one of the world’s great train trips”. All bike hire, luggage transfers and personal transfers are included. www.cofirstclass.co.nz
Cycling through Vietnam, Mongolia, China or Bhutan
Not aimed at the luxury end of the market, Spice Roads promotes its cycle tours as local charm accommodation when three- to four-star isn’t available – but they have a staff-to-client ratio of generally one to three and a wide range of flexible itineraries. When a great cycle route runs through an area where there isn’t any accommodation they’ll find a local family that is happy to work with them (North Thailand and North Laos) or approach the local Buddhist monastery and arrange to stay as guests of the monks. Their tours include accommodation, meals and a guide, and cost an average of just over US$100 a day. www.spiceroads.com
A word of warning
Political turmoil has ensued after a change of government in the Maldives, and demonstrations with incidents of violent confrontations have been reported, particularly in the capital Malé. So far unrest is confined to non-resort islands, but those who plan to visit the country should monitor the situation, exercise caution, attend to personal safety and avoid travelling to places with protests and large gatherings of people.
