Tried & Tested

Restaurant Check: St. George, Hong Kong

30 Sep 2011

Background St. George is the fine-dining restaurant of boutique hotel Hullett House. The cuisine is described as “modern European with British accents”. The chef at the helm is Philippe Orrico, once a protégé of Pierre Gagnaire.

The Food Orrico’s time with Gagnaire is evident, from the artful plating through to the preference for many components on a plate. Yet the dishes are his, and his passion to be as internationally renowned as his mentor is clear. What he hasn’t managed to translate or own, based on my experience, is consistency. Unlike my first visit when I was impressed by every dish but one, the visit for this review left me thinking the food was more miss than hit.

For example the tomato and red fruit salad with Italian burrata, baby fennel with basil and aged balsamic vinegar, and Parma ham was outstanding. The pairing of tomato and red fruit such as strawberries and raspberries was inspired and the balance of sweet, savoury and salty flavours on one plate created balance for the palate. Additionally, the Welsh lamb shoulder and saddle, jasmine rice purée, black garlic and baby carrots was intriguing and perfectly executed. The other five dishes, however, including dessert – poached peach with verbena, meadow sweet and apricot sauce – I would not order again.

Drinks A good selection of champagnes, plus an extensive international wine list, the majority of which are from France.

Service Sebastian, the urbane restaurant manager, brings classic European charm and professionalism to all that he does. The other staff were also professional, and in one case confident enough to have a longer conversation and a laugh.

Vicki Williams

Fact File:

Prices  Appetisers from HK$222 (US$28), mains from HK$380 (US$49), desserts all HK$140 (US$18), Chef’s Menu (four courses) HK$688 (US$88), Tasting Menu (eight courses) HK$1,288 (US$165). Plus 10 percent service charge. The menus change regularly in line with the seasons.

Location  Hullett House, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong, tel +852 3988 0220, www.hulletthouse.com

Opening Hours  Mon-Sat: lunch 12-2.30pm, dinner 6-11pm

Verdict:

When the chef is on form the dishes are impressive, creative and most definitely delicious.


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